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Thread: <<Fullsize servo>>

  1. #11
    plain_simple Guest

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    The amp draw shouldnt be that much then on the 85MG servo because we are speaking of a coreless motor servo that runs on 6V like it's lil brother. I'm sure you wont notice it much, and if you're running lipos then almost for sure it will be meaningless.
    Chosing between 1 or 2 less runtime minutes and a servo that centers right and has even more torque then you need... those less minutes are really a small price to pay
    I will be running my H8 this weekend with that mod and i know exactly my runtime rate was before i changed servos at the 1/18 offroad track i will be testing so i will be able to give you an idea on how many minutes will be lost
    Last edited by plain_simple; 10-06-2005 at 02:55 PM.

  2. #12
    Pullstarter Guest

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    me thinks i have the correct servo right here in my hot little hands, futaba 9402, metal gear, 111oz .10sec, now i just need a half8

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    ...FINALLY you get her Pulley ...and YES your ST is being 'seen to'

  4. #14
    Pullstarter Guest

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    I'm here everybody!! Lock up your daughters!! mmmmmmmmm ST freshness aaaaaarrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhh Dam it! second post and i'm being an idiot already

  5. #15
    leapingbug Guest

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    ok so is it clear that a full size servo with metal gears is over kill
    so what would be the ideal torq rating
    and speed you can never have to much
    With that said what would be the best digi servo under $50

  6. #16
    Trickpatrick Guest

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    I had a fullsize 150.00 $$ KO propo in mine for awhile and yes it was overkill but you turned on the track in real time forsure.

    My point is that if you pull out the servo mounting crap and shoe gue it in you can put almost any servo in.

    Digital rock's but you really dont need it.

  7. #17
    bermbuster Guest

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    Jeremy Kortz uses a full size servo. He made a plate with tapped (threaded) holes. The plate covered the servo and extended over the 2 long ends. The holes were at the ends that extended.. Then he used long screws through the chassis to secure the servo between the chassis and plate (sandwich effect) looked very professional and his buggy ruled......the ECC.

  8. #18
    leapingbug Guest

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    I have a ko propo pds-2123 (7.2V, torque 131.9oz-in (9.5kg-cm), speed 0.06S @ 60 deg., weight of 1.94oz, metal gears, double ball bearings, gold plated connector,) but How do i get 7.2v to it
    I know its overkill but if i have i might as well tryin use it

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    ...DOOD!!! That is like a monster truck servo!!! I dont know how to answer your question but keep us posted on that one....lol...overkill? Nah...You will just be driving a 4WD servo lol...

  10. #20
    Hawk Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by leapingbug
    I have a ko propo pds-2123 (7.2V, torque 131.9oz-in (9.5kg-cm), speed 0.06S @ 60 deg., weight of 1.94oz, metal gears, double ball bearings, gold plated connector,) but How do i get 7.2v to it
    I know its overkill but if i have i might as well tryin use it
    Use opto-isolated esc, add a 2cell LiPo just for the servo/receiver. 7.2v, plenty of amps and lasts forever. I use a 2cell lipo in my MP777 for receiver bat. 1200mah is very small and it stays at 7.2v for a long time.
    To isolate the receiver from the esc, don't turn on the switch on the esc, put the batt. to a switch that plugs into the receiver (3rd ch). Ta Da!
    All the switch on the esc does is control the bec to provide voltage to the receiver (and then the servo).


    Bit, Those specs are in line with the hot digital servos used for Steering in 1/8 nitro buggys. They draw big amps too.

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