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Thread: Ronny's Corner

  1. #121
    Ronny Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by .5x8
    ronny...so i would get better traction if i put the ball diff in the center? the front and rear would have even traction wouldnt it? lol..maybe....i would like all 3 diffs =] its not that hard..plus i got my money =] lol lets just not blow it all off so i can actually go to socal =]
    Hey man:-)

    Get all 3 if you can afford. The rear one should be "lighter" to turn then the front and center. Adjust the F & C a little if they are made to adjust like ordinary ball-diffs.. If you can only get 2, get the F & C, and put std, light type of grease in the rear org. diff. This will make sure your car stays stable:-)

    Ronny

  2. #122
    Ronny Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sideshow
    Wow...Pro Mugen guy on here. Sweet.


    Ahh you guys are making me want to do work for the money to get my half 8
    THANKS!

    Ronny

  3. #123
    Ronny Guest

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by liquidsky
    Hi Ron,

    On page 1 of this thread you were saying wt is 12.5 from cc? How about in cps? as it is the international standard. And what brand of oil are you using? Kyosho? Mugen?Losi? I'm asking this because every manufacturer has their own measurement system. Ex:
    This is from Team Losi:
    100=10
    150=15
    200=20
    275=25
    300=27.5
    350=30
    400=32.5
    425=35
    450=37.5
    500=40

    Losi oil is 2.5 thinner then Team Associated, so compared to AE oil:
    100= 7.5
    150=12.5
    200=17.5
    275=22.5
    300=25
    350=27.5
    400=30
    425=32.5
    450=35
    500-37.5

    This has been a problem with xrays oil too, as people were following setups from the xrays team driver and thought it were the same measurement for all types of brand oils.

    Just want to clear things here, so people wont get mixed up. You can check the oil conversions of different brands in www.twf8.ws under shocks i think
    Good call.. I WAS refering to CPS actually,. but on the bottles it says CC, so to make it easier for the readers I chose to say CC. Sorry, but I should have said the correct term, which is CPS

    Thanks

    Ronny

  4. #124
    Ronny Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mini-Devil
    Hi Ronny, and thanks for the very valuable data!

    If I understand well, you suggest to use Mugen Super Grease in the front and central diffs. So what kind of grease (viscosity?) would you use on the rear diff?
    Your more than welcome Devil-boy Check out page 12 (I think) Tamiya AW in front, Mugen Super Grease in the Center, and std light type grease in the rear

    Ronny

  5. #125
    thedirt Guest

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    Hey Ronny, nice to see you on here. Can you post the part numbers for the grases you use (Tamiya AW, Mugen Super Grease and other grease you use in the rear)?

    If you could that would greatly appreciated as I would like to order the correct stuff.

    Thanks

  6. #126
    Ronny Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by thedirt
    Hey Ronny, nice to see you on here. Can you post the part numbers for the grases you use (Tamiya AW, Mugen Super Grease and other grease you use in the rear)?

    If you could that would greatly appreciated as I would like to order the correct stuff.

    Thanks
    Hey:-)

    Mugen Super Grease: B0308, Tamiya AW:53439, other grease for the rear, you can use what ever you like. But my alltime favorite-grease (light type) is Super Lube, synthetic grease from SYNCO Cemical Corporation (USA). I use this grease everywhere

  7. #127
    thedirt Guest

    Default

    Thanks Ronny, I will have to order these greases.

  8. #128
    sanny632 Guest

    Default Ronny please help

    i am very new to this h8, i just got it on friday so far i've put

    3 racing front aluminum hubs

    3racing oil shock which i rebuilt w/ two hole pistons/ 35 team assotiated oil, yet they still suck my mini t's shock work awsome i cant get these to work well.

    3 racing aluminum shock towers
    3racing ti turnbuckels
    3 racing cvd's
    i live in the US so it is hard to get parts but do u think i should ditch the 3racing shocks and goto kyosho?

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tokyo, Japan
    Posts
    3,049

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    ...YES ...Welcome to the boards Sanny...Good to have you aboard...

    ...I am leaning towards ATOMIC for the drive train, 3RACING for chassis mods and KYOSHO for anything 'else'...Although the KYOSHO parts ARE expensive the shox will pay for themselves in the long run...easy to put together...trouble free...and titanium shafts on the horizon...They ARE an initial expense but they ARE worth it...

  10. #130
    Hawk Guest

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    Check it out, on neobuggy they have a pic of Ronny after winning the Norwegian championship.
    http://neobuggy.net/

    Go Ronny!!

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