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Thread: mini inferno strategy guide

  1. #11
    legacy_gt Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by mocky View Post
    I just got into MI and bought it as a 2nd hand slightly modded roller. It had the motor mounted on the servo side to allow for Li-Pos but then the pinion sizes you can use are severely limited and getting a decent mesh is a real pain. The stock clutch assemble is mediocre at best and that center open differential is horrible in a situation when you jam your the front/rear pairs of wheel. I'm also using a 185/195g 3s Li-Po and the chassis feels slightly sluggish on right handers.

    I'm in the process of redesigning the MI to make it more appealing to today's basher. Here's what I've got planned
    1. Remove Center diff and clutch. Will be replaced with a new clutch spool (F/R wheels will be directly connected, but will be able to disengage from spur gear, I see no real reason for differential action, it's actually pain when you get caught in grass. However if any one here has had massive issues with locked center diff I'm glad to hear your thoughts) Clutch assembly will re-use the stock center diff outdrives, and use a 60t mini-t spur gear and clutch pads ( Does anyone have the F/R gearbox ratios? I prefer not to count teeth) Clutch plates will probably be some T6 Aluminium, I may look into other alloys later. New cltuch will be designed so that the stock driveshafts will still fit.

    2. Clutch mount will also serve as the motor mount (yes, it's gonna look almost very similar to the KMRC conversion) made of same T6 aluminium

    3. Offset the clutch assembly to the right hand side (servo side) to move the spur gear aside so there is more space to fit chunkier Li-Pos and help weight distribution with these heavier batteries.

    4. Chassis will use a new tub made of ABS plastic, just because it's going to be cheaper, have more flex for those who are doing outrageous offroading. Bracing struts will be removed, and replaced with a top plate also made of abs plastic.

    Trying to get this kit priced for under for 50USD, weak aussie dollar means every one else around the world will be paying less, for now.........

    Thoughts and opinion?

    sounds cool...wouldnt a kmrc kit be easier?

  2. #12
    mocky Guest


    KMRC is no doubt the better chassis. It's stiffer, lighter, has an effective slipper, well made. But I'm aiming my chassis at the bashing crowd, who use non-saddle lipos, need a cheapish chassis. Just to put it out there, has anyone had major issues with locked slippers? I could make the chassis even cheaper if I didn't have to make the slipper, which is proving to be the single more expensive part to manufacture.

    Update: Molded ABS tubs aren't an option anymore unless there's demand of 100+ units. So instead I'll FRP.
    Last edited by mocky; 01-19-2009 at 01:05 PM.

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