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Thread: mini inferno strategy guide

  1. #1
    legacy_gt Guest

    Default mini inferno strategy guide

    it was suggested to add strategies for mi to get this forum rolling again...here's mine:

    if you don't like your stock body cuz the stickers look worn out, try taking the stickers out and adding your own stickers. body looks great.

    some people don't know, but to lower your car, add setscrews to holes on the lower arms. having more of the setscrew pushing on the chassis lowers the car.

  2. #2
    Beidle99 Guest

    Default

    Since this looks like the spot to get it rolling again.

    I need some help looking for an atomic center diff mount. I just installed the atomic center ball diff and the gear mesh is way out, I made it work with the 3 racing no slipper gears but, I like to use the slipper for drive train protection.

    Any help available?

  3. #3
    legacy_gt Guest

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    do a search on old threads on here.....there's some things about the fitment of that center diff. i've heard there's some issues but it's been a while. i use the kmrc chassis.

  4. #4
    legacy_gt Guest

    Default

    if you want to replace the servo and electronics, double sided tape works great in adding your own servo anywhere.

  5. #5
    Beidle99 Guest

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    I actually ran the gear through the lathe and took a little off the the teeth and it fit a little better, even with the stock slipper. I still like the design of the atomic center mount but it looks like its going to be tough to find.

  6. #6
    mocky Guest

    Default

    I just got into MI and bought it as a 2nd hand slightly modded roller. It had the motor mounted on the servo side to allow for Li-Pos but then the pinion sizes you can use are severely limited and getting a decent mesh is a real pain. The stock clutch assemble is mediocre at best and that center open differential is horrible in a situation when you jam your the front/rear pairs of wheel. I'm also using a 185/195g 3s Li-Po and the chassis feels slightly sluggish on right handers.

    I'm in the process of redesigning the MI to make it more appealing to today's basher. Here's what I've got planned
    1. Remove Center diff and clutch. Will be replaced with a new clutch spool (F/R wheels will be directly connected, but will be able to disengage from spur gear, I see no real reason for differential action, it's actually pain when you get caught in grass. However if any one here has had massive issues with locked center diff I'm glad to hear your thoughts) Clutch assembly will re-use the stock center diff outdrives, and use a 60t mini-t spur gear and clutch pads ( Does anyone have the F/R gearbox ratios? I prefer not to count teeth) Clutch plates will probably be some T6 Aluminium, I may look into other alloys later. New cltuch will be designed so that the stock driveshafts will still fit.

    2. Clutch mount will also serve as the motor mount (yes, it's gonna look almost very similar to the KMRC conversion) made of same T6 aluminium

    3. Offset the clutch assembly to the right hand side (servo side) to move the spur gear aside so there is more space to fit chunkier Li-Pos and help weight distribution with these heavier batteries.

    4. Chassis will use a new tub made of ABS plastic, just because it's going to be cheaper, have more flex for those who are doing outrageous offroading. Bracing struts will be removed, and replaced with a top plate also made of abs plastic.

    Trying to get this kit priced for under for 50USD, weak aussie dollar means every one else around the world will be paying less, for now.........

    Thoughts and opinion?
    Last edited by mocky; 12-12-2008 at 09:40 AM.

  7. #7
    Beidle99 Guest

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    I like the idea of the new chassis, but maybe having an option for a graphite top plate to held stiffen the chassis so the suspension will do the work.

  8. #8
    Jerry Guest

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    Running mine today outside to keep interested. Recently replaced the clutch shoes and clutch bell along with the disc brake. Moved the brake to the front instead of the back. It is going to get to a high of 43 today in Northern Illinois.

  9. #9
    Jerry Guest

    Default Clutch problems again

    Well, ran the buggy today and the same problems.

    Clutch shoes seem to be prematurely expanding and grabbing too soon. Will not idle without fully engaging and can't brake without dying.

    Replaced clutch bell (new bearing included). New shoes and spring.

    Will be taken all apart again to diagnose. Anybody had this similar problem? If it can't be figured out, will be put up for sale cheap before I step on it. Why O' Why?

  10. #10
    Jerry Guest

    Default

    May have figured it out. Took it all apart down to the crank. Is it possible to slightly bend the crank at the clutch bell end? So that seemed implausible. Installed a new set of shoes (the old ones were brand new, also). Assembled all and though--mabey the gear mesh was too tight and did not allow the clutch bell to freewheel as it should. May get a chance to run it today. Getting cold again.

    If this doesn't work, do they make a 2-shoe or 3-shoe high performance flywheel and shoes? If so, may take another stab at fixing if this latest fix doesn't work. The end is near-------.

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