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Thread: New Esc, Reciever, and Servo

  1. #21
    Four8s Guest

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    Yeah, they are power poles. Some manufacturers call them sermos connectors, which is the real name for them I think, correct me if Im wrong. Duratrax and Promax brands label them as powerpoles.

    The instructions in the Quark manual suggests that deans plugs should only be used.

    Ive always used always used power poles in 8.4v (subc) brushless applications. They are rated for up to 30a. There is some debate on whether or not they can handle more. Personally, I like deans plugs better because they are smaller, but since my son has problems with pulling them apart, I use powerpoles.

  2. #22
    Four8s Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Number_8
    Could you tell me how this runs? . . .
    I havent had a chance to give it a full test run, having tranny issues. I just gave the wheels a spin, against my better judgement , because I was anxious to see how much power the new setup is putting down.

    Honestly I got this H8 to hop up just to wow any nitro 8th scalers and parking lot bashers . Top end and durability is all Im concerned with.

    Quote Originally Posted by Number_8
    I was looking into a Wraith and a Quark but my track is kinda small so thats why I'm running a 5400 now. . .
    How many cells and what pinnion are you running in your 5400? Is it "enough" for a small track? How are temps on it?

  3. #23
    Four8s Guest

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    Hey look, Im not a "Newbie" anymore

  4. #24
    Number_8 Guest

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    Oh okay. I just got my Mamba 5400kv (it was from someone I know), but is the sticker meant to say CM-2042, or CM-2054 ?

  5. #25
    Number_8 Guest

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    Oh lol..didn't see all those posts by you .
    Yeh when you use Lipo (if), your gonna have to change to Deans. I haven't given it a run yet I'm waiting for my bearings and my pinion gear. I oredered a 12t pinion so hopefully that will be good for my track, but I am gonna heatsink the ESC and motor.

  6. #26
    Four8s Guest

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    I have a heat sink I want to add to the mamba 25. Do you put the heat sink on top of the existing heat shrink and put heat shrink over that, or do you strip away the heatshrink and lay the heat sink directly on top of the circutboard?

  7. #27
    JasonH Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Four8s
    I have a heat sink I want to add to the mamba 25. Do you put the heat sink on top of the existing heat shrink and put heat shrink over that, or do you strip away the heatshrink and lay the heat sink directly on top of the circutboard?
    I've done both, and used computer heatsink paste between the heatsink and ESC both times and secured it with some CA glue. I would not put heatshrink on top of the heatsink for a couple reasons. First, it blocks airflow to the heatsink and second, the Mamba 25 is already coated in a waterproof conformal coating (some sort of lacquer I presume) so it doesn't need any additional covering.

    The first time I did it I stripped the stock shrink and glues directly to the board, the second I just glued right on top of the Mamba25 sticker. I don't think it makes much temperature difference. If I had to do it again, I would again leave the stock shrink intact and glue the heatsink to the sticker.

  8. #28
    Four8s Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonH
    I would not put heatshrink on top of the heatsink for a couple reasons. First, it blocks airflow to the heatsink . . .
    Hmm, you got a point. I got the Idea from my Bk controller

  9. #29
    Four8s Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Number_8
    Could you tell me how this runs? . . .
    I solved my center diff problems by reinstalling the stock center diff. Hardly any torque to the rear wheels. With 8cells, 14/32 gearing and 90 degree weather, and no top after two minutes on my small dirt track the motor ran hot +/-140F and the esc was burning up to 170F!

    I brought it to work with me later that night and did some speed runs in the parking lot. The thing was screaming. It seemd like the motor topped out too soon with temps at +/- 100F. ESC ran +/- 120. Maybe I can add a couple teeth to the pinnion.

    On my track at home I was only able to run at about 25% throttle. Could that be causing everything to over heat? I think I read somewhere that running brushless systems at low speeds could damge the components. Maybe that only applies to sensored systems.

    Run time was less than 10 minutes on a 8cell 1200mah intellects.

  10. #30
    Number_8 Guest

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    I would recommend locking the center diff with araldite, because I think that's why you aren't getting much power in the rear. Do you have a heatsink on your motor, because if you don't, get one, or if you do get the on with the fan. Also NiMH batteries don't have a lot of power to run brushless setups, especially a Wraith 7k and a Quark 33a, I would recommend getting a 7.4v LiPo.
    Also, try using a 12t pinoin and the 3Racing Delrin Gears.

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