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Thread: New Esc, Reciever, and Servo

  1. #1
    Four8s Guest

    Default New Esc, Reciever, and Servo

    I went to an R/C expo last weekend and
    picked up a few mini infernos. White body
    with friction shocks.

    Half an hour out of the box, I realized just
    how crumby the stock electronics are. So
    what did I do? Hoped on eBay and bought
    Hitec HS-81MG servos and Mamba Brushless
    6800Kv systems.

    I already have futaba fm radios with micro
    recievers. Will I need to get anything else
    or do any modding or in order to get the rx,
    servo, and esc to work together?

  2. #2
    JasonH Guest

    Default

    You'll need some pinions to fit the new motor since the stock pinions don't fit. Most with a 2mm hole will work, provided they're the right pitch. I use an HPI Micro RS4 pinion and I know some others use RC18T pinions. You'll also want to go fairly small, like 10 or 11 tooth since the brushless motors tend to have less torque and more RPM than their brushed counterparts.

  3. #3
    Four8s Guest

    Default

    Got a 10t pinion. It dosent reach the stock
    spur with an integy motor mount. I need an
    extra mm to get proper gear mesh. At first
    I was gonna extend the reach of the motor
    mount holes on the chassis but now Im
    thinking grinding the head of the motor
    mount screws would be easier. Any other
    solutions?

  4. #4
    JasonH Guest

    Default

    I would enlarge the holes for the motor mount on the chassis. You can check to make sure the motor mount won't interfere with anything first by positioning it on the chassis (with the new pinion and motor attached) and see if you'll get a good mesh by sliding everything closer to the diff.

  5. #5
    Four8s Guest

    Default

    I enlarged the motor mount holes on the
    chassis and from there the install went
    smoothly. This thing was flying, even with
    the slipper slipping away. I was still able to
    roll on the throttle and reach top speed
    after about 20 yds. Managed to twist the
    front drive shaft. Im definitely gotta buy a
    heavy duty set along with oil shocks. Going
    to scuff the slipper discs next.

    The new servo is 10 times better than stock.
    Maybe I should have spent the extra $3 and
    got the HS85mg, then again maybe I wouldt
    have been able to tell the difference. Im an
    having trouble getting it to track straight.
    When I turn right, the steering is skewed that
    way until I turn left. Probably the servo saver?

    The esc was barely warm and the motor was
    in the high 90’s which is I think is kinda hot
    considering it was less than 50 degreesF outside.
    I think thats ok because I should be able to gear
    up . I know 150F is bordering in the hot side
    with sensorless 540 bl motors. Does the same
    temps apply to mini motors?

    The aluminum motormounts holes are threaded,
    should I still use locknuts on the screws? If so
    how do you thread them on?, the motor is in the way.
    Last edited by Four8s; 04-21-2007 at 07:43 AM. Reason: sp

  6. #6
    JasonH Guest

    Default

    Cool, sounds like you're having fun.

    Your steering problem sounds like the knuckles could be too tight, or something else in the steering system is binding. I would disconnect the servo and try to track it down from there.

    Those temps seems fine. I don't recall specific recommended numbers (you can search here and find a ton of info) but you might want to get a heatsink for it anyway. Obviously the cooler you keep the motor the longer it will last.

    Use Loctite on the motor mount screws.

  7. #7
    Four8s Guest

    Default

    Thanks,Ill go over the steering next and
    dab some loctite on the motor mount
    screws once my setup is complete.

    I already mentioned that the front drive
    shaft is twisted, now the front diff is
    starting to go. Im about to replace them
    with the new atomic diffs. What else I
    should get to along with them. Im not too
    concerned with adjustability, just durability.
    I already have bearings. Are CVD’s necessary?
    Ive also decided on swaping the 6800 for a
    wraith 7k later on.

  8. #8
    Four8s Guest

    Default

    Took apart the steering and cleaned out all the grime. That solved the problem. Tracks nice and straight now. Thanks.

    Wraith/quark combos in the mail. Im almost done with this build. Aside from Lipos, I figure my next parts order will be my last. Anyother suggestions on parts to increase durability? Are new CVDs a hop up primarily for racing or are they generally tougher than stocks?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Shanghai, PRC
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Curious - what did you find problematic with the stock electronics? BTW - I have been replacing them also. Mainly because I wanted to experiment with all kinds of setups.
    Steve
    AOL Screen Name: SteveR1960 buzz me if you want to chat RC

  10. #10
    Four8s Guest

    Default

    Since I only bash, I dont have a problem with the 2in1 esc/rx although the throttle and brake response is a bit mushy. My main beef is with the servo. Not enough speed/torque. Small debris easily got lodged in the linkage and would often jammed the steering in one direction. Often I would then to drive into reverse and work the steering back and forth to free up the linkage. After upgrading the servo I have not since then experience that problem.I figure that it has enough torque to break anything in the way loose.

    I know I could have done that 4to3 wire mod but figured Id be going brushless anyways, just not so soon .

    Wow, I just realzed that I will be going through a stock and 2 brushless setups in less than two months.

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