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Thread: The Ultimate Race machine

  1. #1
    Rohit Guest

    Default The Ultimate Race machine

    I am planning to build a half 8. Setting my budget around 600. Here is my list of parts so far, don't have all manufacturers picked yet. LMK what you think and any recomendations. Also let me know if some things are not needed.
    The car.... Is it available anywhere in kit form without electronics!?!?!
    Front upper pin mount
    Front lower pin mounts(both)
    Rear lower ping mounts(both anti squat and toe)
    Alum steering knuckles
    Shock towers
    Alum caster blocks**ARE THESE NEEDED?
    CVD's - atomic
    Center drive shafts
    Front and rear diffs-atomic type 2's
    Center diff- atomic cs
    Motor mount- atomic
    Alum center diff mount set- atomic
    Slipper upgrade*** I have no idea what the deal is with the slipper!?!?!?!?
    Graphite top plate set- atomic????
    Alum or graphite steering ackerman plate
    Alum drive shaft cups for diff pinions (where are these?)
    Shocks- What kind should I get!?!?!?!?!
    Wheels
    tires
    body
    Pinions
    quark 33a or tekin esc!?!?!?!?
    wraith 7k motor?
    I was gonna run an 8 cell saddle pack. What do you all think? I don't think the track allows LIPO.
    Please help me out here trying to get it all ordered and built for a nov 25th race.

  2. #2
    wartown Guest

    Default

    You only have 10 days? You would be much better off buying a RTR and upgrading as you go. You should be able to find most of your answers to all your questions in the forum section. Enjoy!

  3. #3
    Migs Guest

    Default

    Rohit....

    I have a lot of what you're looking for, for sale in my post here:

    http://halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2508

    I have a Mamba listed for the esc but I also do have a Quark 33a that I could substitute for a little more money.

    Let me know if you're interested. Click on the link in my signature for my gallery for pics of my setup.

    By the way... the Eclipse chassis I have for sale can be changed to run in stock configuration with the motor mount on the left front instead of the right rear.
    Last edited by Migs; 11-16-2006 at 06:17 PM.

  4. #4
    OvaYaHead Guest

    Default

    The quark33a + wraith is very sensative to weight. For racing you want to make the car light. Stay away from alloy as much as possible. The only things you need in alloy are drive cups, drive shafts, and motor mount. I think the steering assembly comes in graphite, if not then alloy that too.

    Migs I'll trade you my complete roller for your eclipse. Then you can sell all those parts with a rolling chassis.
    Last edited by OvaYaHead; 11-16-2006 at 07:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Migs Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OvaYaHead
    Migs I'll trade you my complete roller for your eclipse. Then you can sell all those parts with a rolling chassis.

    LOL.... you already know I'm not lookin for trades.

  6. #6
    Q8y_drifter Guest

    Default

    shocks - Kyosho or SATO
    center diff mount - 3R
    slipper - 3R combinative gears (single unit blue gears)
    top plate - xtreme racing top brace

  7. #7
    H8er Guest

    Default

    My personal thoughts...
    Yes, I'm pretty sure is available sans elecs, in I think what's called the Super ARR. It comes with a ton of (highest-quality!) Kyosho alloy parts. You'll have to check that out.
    Anyway...

    Front upper pin mount -No, keep stock, for weight reasons.
    Front lower pin mounts -No, keep stock, same reason.
    Rear lower ping mounts- No, keep stock, same reason (There are replacement ones included with the MI)
    Alum steering knuckles- Yes, and get the 3Racing ones.
    Shock towers- Yes, SATO, Kyosho, or CAW alloy.
    Alum caster blocks**ARE THESE NEEDED? -Yes, yes. Again, 3R.
    CVD's - atomic- MIP are the best.
    Center drive shafts- Yes, MIP
    Front and rear diffs-atomic type 2's- Yes. MIP are worth looking into as well.
    Center diff- atomic cs- Yes, same as above.
    Motor mount- atomic- Yes. But if you want to go cheaper, TOPCAD sells one for $6.50.
    Alum center diff mount set- atomic- Unnecessary. Keep stock, for weight.
    Slipper upgrade*** I have no idea what the deal is with the slipper!?!?!?!? -Get the combinative blue delrin slipper set from 3Racing.
    Graphite top plate set- atomic????- not necessary, but they are cool! I'm getting 3R.
    Alum or graphite steering ackerman plate- It'll just be called a steering plate. Atomic graphite set with ball bearings is best.
    Alum drive shaft cups for diff pinions (where are these?)- No clue!!
    Shocks- What kind should I get!?!?!?!?!- SATO are 1/3 the price of Kyosho's. I'd go SATO.
    Wheels- Good choice. Get the Topcad 1/10 adapters with your choice of wheels and tires, I'm getting plastic TOPCAD's, which come with rubber tires, but you could go foam (check the rules, though)

    body- Just keep the stocker, it's fine. Unless you really want a custom job.
    Pinions- I hear Robinson Racing makes good ones.
    quark 33a or tekin esc!?!?!?!?- Quark 33A
    wraith 7k motor?- Yes
    I was gonna run an 8 cell saddle pack. What do you all think? I don't think the track allows LIPO.- Get IB1400's. If they do allow lithium, get the Apogee Li-Mn pack.

    And if you're just going all out, get ceramic open bearings while you're at it! Of course, you'll want to upgrade your chassis, screws, and other smaller bits.

  8. #8
    Rohit Guest

    Default offroad

    Cool thanks. I'm racing off road, is a chassis upgrade needed?

  9. #9
    FHM101 Guest

    Default

    Keep the stock tub, it's fine and much easier to deal with if you are running a conventional 8 cell pack. Regards 8 cell packs, the hands down hottest 1400 matched packs available come from Team Scream. As for the rest of it, I've been racing my MI almost every weekend since feburary with zero problems and here's what I've done.

    Kyosho aluminum shock towers f/r
    Kyosho oil shocks f/r w/white kyosho springs
    Kyosho ST f/r diffs, stock center diff; shimmed USE YOUR DUST SHIELD
    3R aluminum knuckles w/atomic bushings
    modded stock slipper, disk roughed up and bushings replaced with bearings
    Atomic stainless drive cups
    steel center drive shafts
    MIP CVD's all the way round
    aluminum motor mount from ebay seller 70lotus
    shim on top of rh steering post
    moved front brace from chassis to center diff
    Aluminum rear toe block C, also from ebay seller 70 lotus
    Complete set of Avid sealed bearings
    Hyperion 5000 brushless w/12T pinion
    Mamba ESC
    Team Scream IB1400 matched 8 cell pack
    Hitec hs81mg steering servo
    M8 w/spektrum
    Proline CP shell

    I got the Hyperion because the AON 4900 was on backorder when I needed a motor. I got an AON when they came off backorder intending to use it, but the little Hyperion has been doing just fine and is plenty fast enough to put me in the A main (with my transmitter throttle EPA set to 75%) unless I screw up.
    Last edited by FHM101; 11-17-2006 at 04:46 PM.

  10. #10
    Jrgunn5150 Guest

    Default

    I'm gonna ask a dumb question here now and kick mysself when you answer me, but what is SATO?

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