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Thread: Titanium Hex Set HELP

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Tokyo, Japan


    Quote Originally Posted by pimpsmurf
    Bit has an alloy steel hex head screw set for the H8, but he was trying to bundle it with stuff IIRC. *shrug*-JNY
    ...what is IIRC?

  2. #12
    leapingbug Guest


    So does anyone know where i can get these lol

  3. #13
    Hawk Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by leapingbug
    o and hawk what is the very lest to strip 12.9 / 10.9
    over 175,000psi tensile strength.

    TitaniumCP Grade 2 50,000psi
    Titanium 6Al4V 130,800psi
    Aluminum 7075 T6 74,000psi
    A4-80 (316 Stainless)116,000psi

    all numbers are for hex head cap screw

  4. #14
    Hawk Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by mat3833
    lol i kno im funny but my H8 does have a weight problem(least of its worries at the moment it is crippled) and as i said i am not going to influence its decisions. it wants to be bulletproof so it will be! oh and hawk go the hex head sets come with hex drivers/ allen keys?

    I will have to check but the ones I have seen do.

  5. #15
    pimpsmurf Guest


    IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

    You can get alluminum screws from your kyosho vendor. Stock ones are steel, which you can get at your kyosho vendor. I don't know about titanium ones (you don't want them anyway)

    Don't get stainless because they suck (shear off and bend easily.)

    Steel is cheaper, but my LHS charges like 23c per screw. I have to get them piecemeal. haha

    I'm probably going to change out the bottom of the chassis screws to flat head hex screws, but the rest are fine with me. I don't have a real problem with them.


  6. #16
    Hawk Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by bermbuster
    the term hex head screw mean the head of the screw has 6 sides......
    the screws you are looking for have a hex socket and are called socket head cap screws or flat head socket screws....these screws use a hex driver sometimes called an "allen" wrench. Allen is a brand name of the wrench.
    In a previous life i was a screw manager.........
    Exactly, generally referred to as socket cap screws. Hex drive sockets with machine screw threads, standard, flush, or button. There are millions of combinations of material, finish and class. Blue coated metrics are used on 1/8 buggys a lot. those are class 12.9 and 10.9 alloy steel.
    Biggest problem I have had is finding flush head in smaller sizes like 2.0m and 2.5mm with varying lengths. There are 2.0 and 2.5 TP (self tapping) screws that would do good to be replaced.

    As to what Pimpsmirf's comment that the ones in there don't cause trouble: I agree if you don't take things apart and try to put them together again they work fine. If you take them out and put them back more than once, then it all starts falling apart, literally. I don't have good luck with philips head screws for parts that are assembled and dis-assembled often. Second, the screw threads are much steeper angle and as you screw in and out, the path is opened more so that soon they unscrew themselves.

    Hex drivers are more positive and if you go to the expense of high performance tools for driving hex screws, then last much longer.

  7. #17
    mat3833 Guest


    ok so what should i get for hardware? hex or phillips? i have no hex drivers at all but want a set, i do however have a set of snap on screwdrivers that work great on the H8. i want to get some stronger screws than stock just for insurance. what is my best bet?


  8. #18
    Hawk Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by leapingbug
    Mat thats funny lol
    O ok i was under the impresion that titanium was stronger and wiegh less. if all they are used for is to save wieght thats silly
    How much money $usd for the 100 pc set Black alloy steel im interested
    The problem with screw sets is do you want the stock screws replaced, are you setting up a Eclipse or PittBull chassis, or something in between.

    The Eclipse and PittBull chassis are setup up with different screw sets because most of the itty bitty stuff with the batt. doors, and plastice parts in between the ctr diff and the outer bulkheads are gone.
    I guess a good set would be all the bulkhead screws replaced, bottom mount screws (flush heads) and motor mount screws, motor to mount and mount to chassis. I have replaced all the screws in the diff that hold the cups with machine screws and they go together much tighter and straighter.

    The other thing is, Like BitHed did, it makes sense to change as many of the bottom and top mount screws to 3mm instead of 2.5/2.6mm TP screws. You can't do that if you use a 3Racing ctr diff mount but it works nicely with the stock ctr diff mount. The ctr diff housing is much stronger and straighter with real screws in it. (imho).

    So, there are many options and each screw set would have to be custom built, or at least some chassis componnent sections would have to be different.

  9. #19
    Hawk Guest


    Quote Originally Posted by mat3833
    ok so what should i get for hardware? hex or phillips? i have no hex drivers at all but want a set, i do however have a set of snap on screwdrivers that work great on the H8. i want to get some stronger screws than stock just for insurance. what is my best bet?

    This is a good set and the price is right. The same set from Hudy is over $100. The 1.5, 2.0 and once in a while, 2.5mm will be used with H8. I didn't run into any 3.0 or bigger.

    also, a tap and handle would help. If you are going to put 3mm screws in where they used to have 2.5/2.6 mm TP screws, if you run a 3mm .5 mm tap in and back out, you will have much better success. I know that that seems to be a luxury but they can be had for $3.50 and a handle for and $2. I don't ususally bother putting a tap in on the 2.5machine screw holes. Just have to be diligent and careful ... oh yes, and straight.

  10. #20
    mat3833 Guest


    hmmm now i need a pitbull or an eclipse... this car is like a drug!! it gets better and better each step you just need more!


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