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BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 03:31 AM
http://halfeight.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=475 . There is my chassis that is being made by Cold Fusion Racing. It should be fully completed by next week. :D

46u
10-04-2005, 03:33 AM
How much more will it weigh then the stock one?

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 03:35 AM
Should be a tad bit heavier. Not much.

BitHed
10-04-2005, 04:01 AM
...hmm...i have one from ANOTHER source coming too...Sounds like a Head-To-Head BlackHawk :cool:

hkopium
10-04-2005, 05:46 AM
Great!!! I want one!!! :eek:

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 03:07 PM
Once testing is done, I will let you know!

MGTfix
10-04-2005, 03:53 PM
Blackhawk, what are you doing for the front kickup on the aluminum chassis? This was a problem I ran into on my CF chassis I had to mill out the material from the top side to get the proper fit.

Hawk
10-04-2005, 04:43 PM
With an aluminum chassis, if you take a smidgen of care, the heat transfer from the motor mount might help the heat issue a lot. :cool: Have you looked into that yet? What about placement of the esc to help heat dissipation too? Hot electric motors under the body need help.

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 05:08 PM
Yea. I will be using the 3R heatsink along with a heatsinked AON. What do you mean about using the alum. chassis to cool it down though? Wouldn't the stock chassis in alum. help. Or would you have to change something?

Cold Fusion
10-04-2005, 05:25 PM
Does anyone know if I need to keep those little raised rings around the lower bellcrank holes, or can I just keep everything flat?

Hawk
10-04-2005, 05:37 PM
Yea. I will be using the 3R heatsink along with a heatsinked AON. What do you mean about using the alum. chassis to cool it down though? Wouldn't the stock chassis in alum. help. Or would you have to change something?

Yes, the aluminum chassis could be a huge heat sink for the motor mount if where it mounts, it is level and smooth and there is good contact between the aluminum motor mount and the chassis. Going farther would have the area around the motor mount with grooved fin line design depending how thin the chassis is at that point, and instead of a hole under the motor.

Maybe a spot for the esc to mount to contact the chassis too? :cool:

Hawk
10-04-2005, 05:39 PM
Does anyone know if I need to keep those little raised rings around the lower bellcrank holes, or can I just keep everything flat?
My best guess is the rings were there in the plastic chassis to take the stress of locating the steering posts because the screw might just tear the hole larger. With aluminum, I don't think you would have to worrry about that and the flush head screws would be enough. :cool:

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 05:51 PM
K thanks hawk.

Hawk
10-04-2005, 05:56 PM
Mr. Blackhawk444, sir, how accurate is the drawing you posted? There are now motor mount holes and I would love to get my hands on one of these because you may or may not know, I don't like the stock location. If I could get my hands on a chassis that was just blank I could drill and countersink to mount what I want where I want.
Would it be possible to get an early example? Untested is not a prob for me and I would share whatever I come up with if you want it.

Also, what alloy/treat are you using? 7075 T6 would be wonderful. could be as light as the stock chasis if you make it thin enough. Just wondering. :cool:

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 06:02 PM
That is a question for mr. cold fusion :) . Yep I have seen your conversions. How hard would it be to change it around? I would want to keep stock battery location. Aluminum is going to be 6056.

Hawk
10-04-2005, 06:10 PM
My interest is in racing and the battery would be lipo and wouldn't have to be nearly as big because run time would be 6-7 minutes. This would allow the left side of the chassis to mount receiver, esc and battery in a row with plenty of room.

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 06:24 PM
Yea, I plan on using GP's so that would not work out. You should ask cold fusion though.

plain_simple
10-04-2005, 06:37 PM
Actually it could work with GP's if you line them up on the left touring car style... but would also mean that the motor wouls have to be on the back on the right side and the servo on the stock place... esc and receiver on top plate and you're good to go.
I saw that setup on a french site (i think... getting hold hey?!) and looked pretty well and the weight should be well placed but for sure this setup could be improved if lipos are the option like Hawk said.

Edit 1: Nice work Mr Fusion.. keep it up :D

Cold Fusion
10-04-2005, 08:14 PM
The material is actually 6061 Aluminum.

That drawing is accurate to about .005.If I had a touch probe for the cnc mill, this whole thing is a bunch easier. Right now I'm having to use locator pins and parallel blocks to measure the X/Y coordinates for every hole location.

BLACKHAWK444
10-04-2005, 08:14 PM
Should have more pics tonight :) Oh sorry I said 6056 :o

BitHed
10-05-2005, 04:51 AM
...its just me and I aint no expert or nuffin' (no relly Im NOT!!) but i would keep the raised holes around the steering posts...I have ignored LOTS of KYOSHO stuff on different platforms and usually ruined it or gone back to their design later on...keep em on then take them off later on? The CAW chassis has them on...

plain_simple
10-05-2005, 07:07 PM
I have to go with Bit on that one... If they are there it's because Kyosho had a reason for doing so and for the CAW chassis to have them also there's got to be a very good reason because that means a lot of cnc work.

Hawk
10-05-2005, 11:57 PM
My thinking includes the fact that none of the 1/8 based chassis use re-inforcements in that position. The biggest difference is the chassis for the 7.5 and 777 are made of different alloys of aluminum. The 1/8 buggys use 4mm flushhead screw through the bottom like the 1/16's 3mm flushhead screw. They all retain the top with a brace that is located on the bulkhead and similar size screws in the top hole.
The only structural difference I can imagine is the difference of aluminum and plastic in their ability to resistist tearing from the later pressure on those posts from the steering (probably mostly in feed back from hitting holes and obstacles). I plan on replacing the 3mm screws with steel alloy replacements (no stainless, please).
:cool:

BitHed
10-06-2005, 12:52 AM
...I am with you on keeping the countersunk screws from the bottom...I am thinking of trying to fit some slightly longer ones...But due to flex, possible breakage of the posts, (which i have done once with the stock ones, since REPLACED with stock but will be changed to 3RACING titty ones) and pure fear of being TOO 'floppy' I will keep the circular post 'holders'...I am very interested in hearing how the chassis will be WITHOUT them though...You know me...I am always open to change :D

frostyGT
10-08-2005, 04:48 AM
My carbon fiber chassis doesn't have any raised holes around the steering posts. The top is completely flat, except for the diff area. Works great, so I don't see any reason for them.

http://home.comcast.net/~damon.collins/chassis_holes.jpg

BLACKHAWK444
10-08-2005, 04:56 AM
Guys the chassis is going quite well :) . Just figuring out battery placement and holding. I decided that I am going to use super strong velco. Makes things alot simpler and will work very well.

BitHed
10-08-2005, 06:12 AM
..Frosty i hate you :p Man that looks so sexy...and you are obviously right about those raised bits...

...BH...mate that is sounding better and better as we go along...I think you are right with the velcro plan ;)

Cold Fusion
10-22-2005, 05:19 PM
Sorry blackhawk, I had one more little problem, couldn't do it today.

BLACKHAWK444
10-24-2005, 02:43 AM
NP cold fusion. Ok a question for all of you that have your H8's in front of you....Do you need the chassis "wings"? Do the susp. arms rest on them? If you get rid of them will it effect anything? Thanks...

DrVonHoSS
10-24-2005, 08:03 AM
NP cold fusion. Ok a question for all of you that have your H8's in front of you....Do you need the chassis "wings"? Do the susp. arms rest on them? If you get rid of them will it effect anything? Thanks...

You would need those creased areas if the chassis were made of aluminum.. otherwise the chassis will bend. My graphite chassis doesn't appear to need any creases or braces at all. I used 2.5mm graphite and its very ridgid. Since I still haven't run the car all I can say for sure is.. time will tell.
**

Im editiing my post.. I misread yours. Those "wings" are to adjust your droop on the suspension. If you plan on running full travel then you dont need them.

BitHed
10-24-2005, 08:46 AM
...Hoss...Do your REAR arms rest ON those wings at all? My FRONT arms dont but I have a funny feeling that the REAR wings DO :confused: Can you check for us...In fact anyone out there in the Cyper-Pits...Ddo a quick check for us...Peace...

DrVonHoSS
10-24-2005, 08:53 AM
...Hoss...Do your REAR arms rest ON those wings at all? My FRONT arms dont but I have a funny feeling that the REAR wings DO :confused: Can you check for us...In fact anyone out there in the Cyper-Pits...Ddo a quick check for us...Peace...

I dont have the stock chassis anymore... but if I remember correctly they do not rest on them.

You need to install long 3mm set screws in those holes in the A Arms to adjust droop. For some reason the car didnt include the screws with the stock A Arms and the 3Racing arms didnt include them either.

The droop screws are used to limit down travel. I set mine for max travel but just enough to prevent strain on the shocks from over extension.

crymynal
10-24-2005, 10:44 AM
The Dr is right. The "wings" are to adjust droop. I have mine set to keep the cvd's just below level. This would be for smooth surfaces and does not work well in grass!

BLACKHAWK444
10-24-2005, 09:20 PM
Pics very very soon....:)