PDA

View Full Version : Ronny's Corner



Pages : [1] 2 3

Ronny
05-21-2005, 12:42 AM
My name is Ronny, and I'm from Norway. This is my first post here.
I race 1/8 buggy for Mugen Seiki, RB Mods, Racing +, Neo-buggy etc.
I just had my Half8 with me to the 1/8 OR Euro warm-up in France, where I gave the car a real run for it's money on the 2005 Euro's track.

The car is equiped with Mamba esc, AC Mini motor, Orion mached 8 cell packs, oil-shocks & tuning springs, last but not least 3Racing alum.towers, motor-mount, carbon top-plate, titanium turnbuckles & tourq-rods..

Anyway, one of my sponsors timed my car while testing it at break-time, and at a nearly 350 meters track, my laptime was 4 seconds of his laptime with the 1/8 gas-buggy :eek:

My H8 cleared the whole 1/8 buggy track, jumping doubles, tabletops etc meant for his bigger cusine.. Needless to say, people was stocked by it's performance indeed. The speed of my H8 is approxamatly 53.km with stock 14.T pinion. The car is so dialed, that all of the other drivers testing it said, hey, what the, this feels just like my 1/8 :D

This car rocks after a little twiking & fiddeling, and the only other really needed options for my car now would be alum.steering knuckles, roll-bars and BALL-diffs if someone would make them. I have already introduced the idea for 3Racing ;)

The reason I want ball-diff versus fluid-diffs is simple. MUCH less rotating weight with ball-diffs. Ball-diffs can as you all know be adjusted to give a tighter/looser diff,. this is equal to go from f.example 3 to 5K in the diff with only a quarter of twist or so :D
At the moment with the stock diffs, the center diff is making the front wheels spinning way too much, reducing forward traction enormously.

Btw, I have been browsing this site for a few weeks, and have to say I like the manor here. Much like on neo-buggy where I have my own tread called "Ronny's corner" under the Team section. We talk 1/8 OR there of course, but the rules apply for the H8 when it comes to setup's. My car is set up like my 1/8 Mugen Prospec, exept for the roll-bars which I haven't gotten yet..

Anyways, just thought I'd say HI as I'm probably gonna hang around on this great site now that I'm also able to play a little, not only die-hard racing :)

Have a nice weekend!

Ronny Arnesen
Team Mugen Seiki

BitHed
05-21-2005, 01:10 AM
...Ronny Welcome!! It sounds like we are lucky to have you...i am glad that someone at your level HAS the H8 and is it running it so well...we look forward to your input so that we can ALL have our cars as 'dialed' as yours is...

...ronny i hope you have a digital camera too because i think you will have loads of great pics...

...BTW guys I DO ship to europe ;) I am an international phenomenon :D

halfEIGHT
05-21-2005, 03:21 PM
Welcome Ronny! It sounds like we'll have our own Ronny's Corner thread going here soon enough! :D Can you post pics and details of your setup in the Gallery:

http://halfeight.com/gallery/

Thanks! :)

Ronny
05-22-2005, 12:51 AM
Hey guys:-)

THANKS for the warm welcome :D Well, I am at this moment not equiped with a digi.cam, but within a week or so, I'll make that happen :rolleyes:

Regarding setup, sure I'll spill the beans ;) But when talking about setup for the H8, it's something I'd like to point out that makes or breaks a setup!!

You guys have already discussed this elswhere in this forum,. namly weight-bias :rolleyes: I hear that most of you have a nose-heavy car!?!? How? One very important thing to remember regarding the H8, is the fact that it IS meant for a 8 cell pack which weighs 185.grams!! A Lipo 2 cell saddle-pack for example weighs around 100.grams :eek: So as you surely see, this will throw the balance WAY off,. and give you a nose-heavy car. A balanced car is Alfa Omega for nimble & precise behavior :)

So, with that said and done, here's my equipment, and how I have sat the car up with those components installed.

ELECTRONICS:

Mamba 25 Esc / Timing:Normal
Mini AC motor / 16.T pinion
Hitec 81MG servo / 0.9.sec - 3.5.kg
Futaba 40FM rec. / Futaba 3PK Radio
Orion GP1100. / 8 cell Mached packs
----------------------------------------

OPTIONS:

Kyosho oil-shocks
Kyosho Tuning springs
3Racing TI shocktowers
3Racing Carbon top-plate
3Racing TI turnbuckles
3Racing TI torq-rods
---------------------------------------

SETUP: (Car weight = 884.grams RTR)

Front links & shocks:
2 hole piston, biggest holes, 500. oil, Kyosho RED springs, no spacers, full extention on shocks, top inner hole on tower, and note that both the shocks are equal in lenght!!!
Camber links, original position in tower, 5.mm space between plastic.c & arm.
Steering links, 13.mm space between the two plastic cups.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rear links & shocks:
2 hole piston, biggest holes, 450 oil, Kyosho RED springs, 2.mm spacers, full extention on shocks, top inner hole for the shocks in the tower, and again check that they are both equal in lenght!!!
Camber links, original position in tower & hubs, hub in original position also.
B block for toe-in on the rear. It's the original that was mounted as std.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

With the weight of 884.grams ready to go, and this setup - my F&R driveshafts sits perfectly level when the car is compressed and then relized again ;)
It flies straight as an arrow upon take-off's, and generally performes very much like the "real thing". But I must add one thing.. For a setup to work the way you expext it to work after getting a setup handed over, it's very critical to make ALL of the adjustments in the setup, not skipping the springs for another or oil and such. Try this to the letter, and you will be standing there with a BIG smile on you face :D

Oh, I have some info that you might find handy! Too many racers are beliving that a 40.wt oil is the same as a 400.cc oil.. NOT the case. A 40.wt oil is actually 500.cc :eek: So, when you US guys are bringing your 50.wt oils and 45.wt oils to do this setup, you would actually pore 625.cc oil in the fronts, and 562.5.cc oil in the rears :confused: You have to multiply with 12.5 ;)
For example,. a 35.wt oil.. 35 x 12.5 = 437.5.cc oil,. very very close to my 450.cc. So, 35.wt OR 450.cc oil in the rears. And 40.wt OR 500.cc oil in the fronts ;)

Also, I can very much recommend using the original 14.T pinion and the RACE timing on the Mamba esc, as this gives a little more snap out of corners. For tarmac, I would use the 16.T pinion and NORMAL timing on the Mamba esc.

Oh yeah,. a BIG thank you to JOE FORD at Castle Creations for hooking me up :p

TTYL guys :)


Shocks:

halfEIGHT
05-22-2005, 05:57 PM
Cool, great info Ronny, and, I've broken this off as your own "Ronny's Corner" thread! ;) :D

Ronny
05-22-2005, 06:20 PM
Cool, great info Ronny, and, I've broken this off as your own "Ronny's Corner" thread! ;) :D

Sweet, thanks. :p . I will post as much as I have time too:-)

Ronny

.5x8
05-23-2005, 03:45 AM
ooo pro! lol haha good info! ill take all that in mind! thank U!

BitHed
05-23-2005, 04:05 AM
...Ronny you mean that you are at 884 grams with batteries and body and everything? Ok thats what i thought you meant ;)

rstnboy
05-23-2005, 04:09 AM
Ronny,

Thanks for posting your setup info and welcome to the forum. I am sure your experience and input here will greatly benefit all of us in getting the most out of our Hafl8. I especially like the explanation of the different standards used to measure shock oil weight. It would help a little to know the track conditions your setup is for (i.e. dusty, loose, blue groove, etc) or does it really matter with something this small?

JonteJsson
05-23-2005, 05:37 AM
Hi Ronny.
I am JonteJsson from neo.
Do you know any place in Europe to get BL motors cheap?

Ronny
05-24-2005, 05:22 PM
Hi guys :)

Funny that I out of the blue got a "Mini-Ronny's corner" here, lol, funny stuff :p Well, I think that is very cool, and I look forward to get to know you guys.

Btw, Jonte, of course I remember you, Mr.Sweden. I'm not familiar with the BL line of motors. I have only tried the Mamba 6800 shortly, and the Mini AC 1215/12. Sorry, but regarding what's available out there of stuff for the H8, you all know the same as me, if not more, lol..

Anyway, I - as surly many of you are drooling over the sweet line of options 3Racing are making. I am eagerly awaiting to test out the steering knuckles to see if they will give me a steady camber, or if they will be sloppy also. From what I have seen from the other stuff they have made so far, it looks very promising indeed..

As I have mentioned earlier, I wrote 3Racing a mail, suggesting ball-diffs and such - but for some reason I haven't heard from them at all :confused: They probably have a lot to do..

I tried a grease from Tamiya today. It's called AW grease (Anti-Wear), and it's sticky as ****. Suddenly my center-diff felt like it had 7000K oil if you would compare to a 1/8. I tested it out just an hour ago, and the test result was 50/50.The car shot off with ALL four's spinning this time :D The car was A LOT more dialed beliv it or not,... BUT only for 3 minutes or so :rolleyes: :( Then the grease have flowen off, and the diff and the handeling returned to the std feeling.

WE NEED BALL-DIFFS!

Ronny
05-24-2005, 05:38 PM
...Ronny you mean that you are at 884 grams with batteries and body and everything? Ok thats what i thought you meant ;)

BitHed :)

Right on the money :D Btw, what's the odds for you hooking me up with some of the stock tires?? I ordered them here, but it's not coming..
As you may know, I live in Norway - so maybe shipping-costs would be a issue? Anyway, I'll try too get a video going. The plan, as my H8 looks EXACTLY like my Mugen Prospec, we thought it might be funny to film the two of them battle on a race-track. The H8 can certaily keep up with it:-)

TTYL

Ronny
05-24-2005, 07:36 PM
Guys! I have a tip for you that you'll probably love. Tired of sloppy steering-knuckles?? Do this, and you will have rock-stable hubs without ANY slop whatsoeva ;)

You will need to buy Kyosho's W0146 3.mm Flat-head Washers! These are the countersunken washers that is used on the 7.5, 777 etc. They are Blue washers that are meant for use with countersunken screws.

Press a washer down where the std plastic bushing/washer is in the hole of the 20 & 22 degree uprights are. Press them hard into place, as they are a perfect fit. Then just screw the assambly togheter with the stock screws. Do check that the steering-knuckles can swing without resistant at all, but tighten the screws so that it just a hint from going tight ;)

Do this guys, and your camber stays put, and you will have a rock-stable front..

TTYL

vindictor67
05-24-2005, 07:46 PM
Thanks for the Info. Are they almost the same thing as 3racings kingpins?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=5976912380&rd=1

BitHed
05-24-2005, 09:39 PM
...Ronny's been a busy boy...

...RE: TAMIYA Anti-Wear...I have been using it since day one, well day 3 actually because i started off with TAMIYA Titanium Grease but itwas too thin..The AW Grease is very good but it DOES tend to fly off...Apply it liberally to your front and rear diffs with your finger or a cotton bud / Q-tip...Make sure to get all your nooks and crannies...It IS pretty sticky...Smells like vanilla a little bit but it sure doesnt TASTE like vanillla ;) Pop your diffs back in and enjoy the ride...Repeat as necessary...I would bother with your center diff because it will just make a mess...apply to the center as THINLY as possible...You will still get good results...It might fog up your gear cover though...

*A little dab on EACH end of your front / rear dogbones is nice too...

...RE: Washers / spacers...I have to disagree with Ronny on this one...I have been testing these washers, or ones LIKE them, too...Alloy with flat bottoms, coned bottoms, 'stepped' bottoms like stock and eventually they ALL come out...its not the washer thats the trouble...Its the screw and the plastic...Not enough screw goes INTO the plastic to hold it AND the plastic is too soft anyway...I am now working on BIG short screw...A FAT alloy one with a NASTY self-tapping (makes its own hole) thread on it...The LHS cant help me any more and I am now in the screw section of the hardware store :D

...Ronny BL stands for brushless, that confused me for ages too ;) Stock tires to Norway? No problem...

...Hey Ronny do me a favour and weigh yourself WITHOUT a battery pack and the body, chassis and wing only...You better than 655 grams? ;)

Ronny
05-24-2005, 10:49 PM
...Ronny's been a busy boy...

...RE: TAMIYA Anti-Wear...I have been using it since day one, well day 3 actually because i started off with TAMIYA Titanium Grease but itwas too thin..The AW Grease is very good but it DOES tend to fly off...Apply it liberally to your front and rear diffs with your finger or a cotton bud / Q-tip...Make sure to get all your nooks and crannies...It IS pretty sticky...Smells like vanilla a little bit but it sure doesnt TASTE like vanillla ;) Pop your diffs back in and enjoy the ride...Repeat as necessary...I would bother with your center diff because it will just make a mess...apply to the center as THINLY as possible...You will still get good results...It might fog up your gear cover though...

*A little dab on EACH end of your front / rear dogbones is nice too...

...RE: Washers / spacers...I have to disagree with Ronny on this one...I have been testing these washers, or ones LIKE them, too...Alloy with flat bottoms, coned bottoms, 'stepped' bottoms like stock and eventually they ALL come out...its not the washer thats the trouble...Its the screw and the plastic...Not enough screw goes INTO the plastic to hold it AND the plastic is too soft anyway...I am now working on BIG short screw...A FAT alloy one with a NASTY self-tapping (makes its own hole) thread on it...The LHS cant help me any more and I am now in the screw section of the hardware store :D

...Ronny BL stands for brushless, that confused me for ages too ;) Stock tires to Norway? No problem...

...Hey Ronny do me a favour and weigh yourself WITHOUT a battery pack and the body, chassis and wing only...You better than 655 grams? ;)


BitHed:-)

You are absolutly correct regarding that the issue of stripped knuckles will probably still accure, but my modification had nothing to do with that. I haven't had a prob with them stripping in the treads. I wanted to get the "side 2 side" slopp away, so that the camber & toe-in stayed constant. Now they do for sure. This works BitHed, but nothing to do with screw-treads, just constant geomitry for well handling.

Oooops, I feel like a DORK, lol.. BL, OF COURSE, ha ha ha :rolleyes: :o :rolleyes:

Ronny
05-24-2005, 10:52 PM
BitHed:-)

Guess the weight of my car???????????? 666 :eek: .grams without batteries & body!
how do we do with the tires? Card?

Thanks BitHed, I appriciate that :D

Ronny
05-24-2005, 10:59 PM
Thanks for the Info. Are they almost the same thing as 3racings kingpins?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=5976912380&rd=1

Hi:-)

I ASSUME that the ones from 3Racing has the exact same measurments as the std plastic ones! This would mean that they will have the same "side 2 side" slop. I am going to use the ones from Kyosho cause the slop goes 100% away,. and I'll use the steering-knuckles from 3Racing along with them to make up a combo of a super precise, and super durable assambly :D

Hope this helps you ;)

BitHed
05-24-2005, 11:46 PM
...ronny understood ;) The washers GREATLY improve the handling...I have never liked plastic on plastic...its just REALLY annoying when they get stripped too :( I have been using red aloy ones from a third-party here...I have a thing for red...

...BTW i was goofing this morning with some spacers and screws and bearings and i think i might be able to get a bearing in the HUB to further empower the knuckle...

...PayPal is better...But i will mail you with a proposition...

...666? Aw dood you GOTTA change that...Thats the Devil's Car !! lol...

Ronny
05-24-2005, 11:55 PM
BitHed:-)

...666? Aw dood you GOTTA change that...Thats the Devil's Car !! lol...

He-he, 666. I KNOW man, I'm bad, grrrr :eek:

vindictor67
05-25-2005, 12:51 AM
...ronny understood ;) The washers GREATLY improve the handling...I have never liked plastic on plastic...its just REALLY annoying when they get stripped too :( I have been using red aloy ones from a third-party here...I have a thing for red...

...BTW i was goofing this morning with some spacers and screws and bearings and i think i might be able to get a bearing in the HUB to further empower the knuckle...

...PayPal is better...But i will mail you with a proposition...

...666? Aw dood you GOTTA change that...Thats the Devil's Car !! lol...

Bit are you using thrust bearings? I've been looking thru my books at work and can't find anything near small enough, but I work on 750 ton injection molding presses so most of the parts I buy at work are a "little" larger.

BitHed
05-25-2005, 12:54 AM
...mate i live in Japan...we INVENTED the bearing...lol...

MGTfix
05-25-2005, 03:13 AM
Ronny, if you are looking for a grease that won't fly off the gears try Mugen's Super Grease I have it in my center diff and I haven't had any problems with it flying off the gears.

Ronny
05-25-2005, 01:44 PM
Ronny, if you are looking for a grease that won't fly off the gears try Mugen's Super Grease I have it in my center diff and I haven't had any problems with it flying off the gears.

MGTfix:-)

Really :eek: So in other words, I drive for Mugen, and I diden't know :o
THANKS MGT, I really appriciated that info:D

So, will this give a feeling of thicker "fluid", AND keep it there for a longer time? Coz, if the grease flies of like the AW grease within 2-3 minutes, I'm more or less at the same page.. It would be VERY cool if it sticks, and keeps the "thick fluid" feeling :rolleyes:

BitHed
05-25-2005, 02:44 PM
...pcked up a tube of Mugen Seiki Super Grease...I havent applied it yet but i did the 'Finger Test'...This stuff is stickier than dog poop :D Im looking forward to it...Yo Ronny, hows about a crate of this stuff from your sponsor ;)

MGTfix
05-25-2005, 03:38 PM
I didn't mean it like that ;) , I found this grease by accident my LHS had put all there old Mugen stuff on clearance so I picked it up. The super grease so far has held up the best for me, I have 6 runs on my car since I changed to the Mugen grease. I am curious how it will hold up to the BL systems that you guys are running, I am running the X-speed motor with eight cells just for comparison.

Ronny
05-25-2005, 10:50 PM
I didn't mean it like that ;) , I found this grease by accident my LHS had put all there old Mugen stuff on clearance so I picked it up. The super grease so far has held up the best for me, I have 6 runs on my car since I changed to the Mugen grease. I am curious how it will hold up to the BL systems that you guys are running, I am running the X-speed motor with eight cells just for comparison.

Dear dear MGT, my man, I did NOT by any way trying to be sarcastic with my comment regarding the Mugen Super grease AT ALL :( If you misunderstood me, I REALLY meant that I should have known about that grease, and my thanks to you was right from the hart, so please forgive me if I wrote those lines in a way that came out as sarcastic ;)

So with that cleared up bud, thanks again for the info :D I'll try it for sure.
But the fact that you where using this along with a brushed X-speed motor made me a little concerned if it's gonna stick with my setup.. My car is now so sick fast using the 16.T pinion, that I think that only a ball-diff, or a closed fluid-filled diff will do.. But hey, I'm a sucker for trying out new stuff, so you bet I have already sent a mail asking for a tube or two ;)

Ronny
05-25-2005, 10:56 PM
...pcked up a tube of Mugen Seiki Super Grease...I havent applied it yet but i did the 'Finger Test'...This stuff is stickier than dog poop :D Im looking forward to it...Yo Ronny, hows about a crate of this stuff from your sponsor ;)

Yoo BitHead :)

Sweet, man,. give me a feedback asap on that :D

The std tires came today :rolleyes: So for now I'm good, thanks a lot for the possebility for help, that was very appriciated for sure ;)

Btw: why do I always have to turn the smilies off, or my message is not going thru??

Ronny
05-26-2005, 02:27 AM
Hi guys :)

As promised, I have taken some pictures of my H8 and my Prospec, with & without body's so you can take a look inside ;)

I've sent this pic to BitHed, so if he's a cool dude :cool: he'll slap them in here..

JonteJsson
05-26-2005, 02:56 PM
You could also upload your pics instantly in the site gallery:
http://halfeight.com/gallery/uploadphoto.php

Ronny
05-26-2005, 04:56 PM
Jonte:-)

THANKS! I just did, so if you wanna take a look at my car - go ahead :)
I put in 5 or 6 pictures at the gallery under Ronny ;)

Ronny
05-26-2005, 05:19 PM
Guys:-)

I just got a very nice mail from 3Racing :) They have been into the thought about ball-diffs, but it seams like they are going to consentrat on Gear-diffs at this moment. As I learn more, I'll share the info with ya all ;)

I must say that I'm VERY impressed with 3Racing's parts, and also with there service, which seams like just as good as there parts, well done 3Racing :)

Ronny
05-26-2005, 05:26 PM
Ronny,

Thanks for posting your setup info and welcome to the forum. I am sure your experience and input here will greatly benefit all of us in getting the most out of our Hafl8. I especially like the explanation of the different standards used to measure shock oil weight. It would help a little to know the track conditions your setup is for (i.e. dusty, loose, blue groove, etc) or does it really matter with something this small?

SORRY for missed your post :o THANKS a lot :) Actually, this setup has proven very good on dusty tracks, blue groove, and asphalt. But on asphalt you would benefit a lot if having the roll-bars of course. But all in all, a 90% dialed car for most conditions I think ;) And yeah, the H8 responds to every adjustments like it's bigger brother. F.example, the other day, I swiched to the 22 degree caster blocks, and INSTANTLY I could power-slide out of the corners, and it stopped "hooking" into the turn..

.5x8
05-29-2005, 05:08 AM
yo' ronny whatcha up to now?

Ronny
05-30-2005, 01:40 AM
yo' ronny whatcha up to now?

Hey .5x8:-)

Not much,. are going to try out the Mugen Supergrease I got yesterday in the middle & front diff.. I'm going to the 1/8OR track here in Oslo tomorrow to lay some rubber with both my H8 and my Mugen Prospec :D

.5x8
05-30-2005, 03:37 AM
luckee! o yeh?!?! IM GONNA GO TO A PARTY! lmao..well have fun and tell me how taht grease is! as soon as my batteries and my bearings come from URC im probably gonna pick that up....a 12 tooth pinion..or something less....because the gearings kinda high with the stock pinion. i just fitted in a graupner speed 400, it was layin round, so i just fitted it in..and what a difference...my AAs are low..and its like stock speed almost.. lol im runnning AAs for now because my order of 8 cell nimh 1100mahs wont come in till the coming saturday...or monday..damnnn itt! i cant wait!

akura2
05-30-2005, 04:41 AM
My H8 has Kyosho shocks, AON 4900, XXL Rx, Mamba contoller, Hitec 85MG servo.... and it weighs 663 grams w/o battery and body

BitHed
05-30-2005, 05:08 AM
...sounds VERY much like my set up...I guess we are all pretty much running the same things so far...

akura2
05-30-2005, 05:13 AM
I can't find that 3Racing slipper mod... where did you see it

BitHed
05-30-2005, 05:26 AM
...The ATOMIC slipper options you mean? All the regular suspects...Not sure if they are coming to the h8.com shop...BTW my slipper is locked :D

akura2
05-30-2005, 05:38 AM
...The ATOMIC slipper options you mean? All the regular suspects...Not sure if they are coming to the h8.com shop...BTW my slipper is locked :D


Dono.. I saw in one of the threads that there were some 3Racing slipper pads... but I haven't seen them anywhere

BitHed
05-30-2005, 05:44 AM
...best of my knowledge we have locking it, atomic orange coloured replacements or rubber washers from the hardware store...Havent heard of the 3Racing part yet...But i dont know 'everything ' lol...

akura2
05-30-2005, 06:05 AM
OH ok... it was mentioned by mOOsE


the slipper slips terribly because their is little friction to be created. To modify this, you can do one of many things: the easiest thing to do is buy the 3 racing slipper pads and simply install those. You could also take apart the slipper assembly and "rough up" the metal disks by sanding or cutting grooves with an exacto/knife. Another thing you can do is install an o-ring in the slipper assembly which also works to reduce the slipping effect.

akura2
05-30-2005, 06:06 AM
My slipper slips REALLY badly with the 4900... I HAVE to do something

BitHed
05-30-2005, 06:12 AM
...my personal advice is LOCK IT...You dont need it...My MODERATOR advice is proceed with caution and do something by your own choice that might fix it ;) If anything goes wrong then it is not the fault OR opinion of h8.com as a functioning internet entity..lol...

akura2
05-30-2005, 06:13 AM
...my personal advice is LOCK IT...You dont need it...My MODERATOR advice is proceed with caution and do something by your own choice that might fix it ;) If anything goes wrong then it is not the fault OR opinion of h8.com as a functioning internet entity..lol...


LOL... you're funny

maybe I'll use ShoeGoo so that if I decide to "unlock" it I can jst pull off the glue

BitHed
05-30-2005, 06:17 AM
...ShoeGoo will hold up? Sounds good though...Just MAKE SURE your mesh is tight and your motor mount hasnt slipped...The scream of a slipping diff and the scream of a brushless monster eating a slipper is the same sound ;)

akura2
05-30-2005, 06:22 AM
...ShoeGoo will hold up? Sounds good though...Just MAKE SURE your mesh is tight and your motor mount hasnt slipped...The scream of a slipping diff and the scream of a brushless monster eating a slipper is the same sound ;)

as long as you let it set for 24 hours it's like solid rubber... I use it to build indistructable battery packs... stays slightly flexible so under stress it will flex a little w/o giving

BitHed
05-30-2005, 06:40 AM
...thats sounds like a goer :D Try it and let us know...

.5x8
05-30-2005, 07:14 AM
i have been trying to tighten my slipper..and its HARD! how the heck do you tighten this thing..it hurt my fingers...>.< wahh lmao

BitHed
05-30-2005, 07:19 AM
...the easiest way is to actually take it OUT of the car and do it like that...other than that you can thread your mother's FAVOURITE soft fluffy bath towel into it as you tighten it...that'll do it ;) Try and do it without shredding your finger...

JonteJsson
05-30-2005, 01:13 PM
I've got the Atomic slippers, atleast it works with the stock elecs but I will try it out will a BL-setup...

Ronny
05-31-2005, 02:03 AM
Hi guys :)

Regarding the slipper, - do as BitHed says. Use a cloth to hold the gear, and tighten the nut as hard as you can. I use a BL motor and haven't stripped any gears yet. And to further assure you it's gonna hold up, I use my H8 on our 1/8 track ;)

Btw, the Mugen Super Grease was exellent!! My car felt way more direct :D

BitHed
05-31-2005, 02:07 AM
...THE GREASE rox!! i CANNOT BELIEVE HOW DIFFERENT IT FEELS...excellent!!

.5x8
05-31-2005, 02:19 AM
okay so where do i put the grease again? on the gears...do i need to open up the diff and put it in there? and how do i do the slipper mod? or can i jsut tighten it ALL the way and leave it at that?

JonteJsson
05-31-2005, 09:42 AM
Hey. I saw that you were using the 81MG-servo for steering. Is it a perfect fit using the hitec servomount?

Thanks.

akura2
05-31-2005, 02:14 PM
Hey. I saw that you were using the 81MG-servo for steering. Is it a perfect fit using the hitec servomount?

Thanks.

perfect fit.... like a love glove....

Ronny
06-03-2005, 04:14 PM
okay so where do i put the grease again? on the gears...do i need to open up the diff and put it in there? and how do i do the slipper mod? or can i jsut tighten it ALL the way and leave it at that?

Hey .5x8 :)

Yeah, for the center-diff, you only need to remove the lexan-cover and squirt it in sort of speak, he he. For the front one you need to open the gearcase/diff. For the rear diff, use only a light grease, this diff should turn VERY free. This will give you a stabil rear-end, which you need ;)

Ronny
06-03-2005, 04:28 PM
Hey. I saw that you were using the 81MG-servo for steering. Is it a perfect fit using the hitec servomount?

Thanks.


Hey Mr.Sweden :)

The 81MG is a perfect fit as akura2 also confirms. This servo rocks bigtime with it's metal-gears & 3.5kg/0.9sec :eek:

But as I'm a Futaba guy, I use the 3PK radio & HRS system/digital servos normally, I'm looking into switching out the Hitec 81MG for the Futaba S9650 Mini digital servo. It has around 3.kg/0.11.sec specs, but has way more holding power than analog servos, so much more consistant powerband thrue it's operating range. My only question is if the Mamba speedcontroller will operate on the HRS system :confused:

Ronny
06-03-2005, 04:55 PM
...THE GREASE rox!! i CANNOT BELIEVE HOW DIFFERENT IT FEELS...excellent!!


:D LIKI LIKI LIKI A LOT :D

Thomas
06-03-2005, 10:03 PM
Hi.
Don`t know if you rember my but I`m the one who fell in love with youre losi last year in Kodal.... hehe....

I bought a losi last summer, but I`m heading for the store on monday for a H8. What about Kåsa? Does hi have a H8? cause I`m out in the rain these days building a small buggy (H8) track outside my house..... Cool if Kåsa would come and race some:) More drivers --> More fun:) I`m hoping for some friends here in Sandefjord to come race with their small scaled offroaders....

Thomas V.

Ronny
06-05-2005, 01:52 AM
Hi.
Don`t know if you rember my but I`m the one who fell in love with youre losi last year in Kodal.... hehe....

I bought a losi last summer, but I`m heading for the store on monday for a H8. What about Kåsa? Does hi have a H8? cause I`m out in the rain these days building a small buggy (H8) track outside my house..... Cool if Kåsa would come and race some:) More drivers --> More fun:) I`m hoping for some friends here in Sandefjord to come race with their small scaled offroaders....

Thomas V.

Hey Thomas:-)

Sure I remember, he he.. Track for H8, COOL!! Kåsa really want one, and will absolutly be up for a track close to him :D Call him!! He'll love it..

Btw, tell me if you know anyone that needs a Losi Mini-T with electronics & options. The car has been driven maybe 30 pack or so.. This is what's comes with it:

MIP driveshafts, ball-bearings, oil-shocks, option springs, 2 motor-mounts, LRP Micro-Quantum speedcontroller, Hitec HS-55 servo, A-tec 12 turn motor, Peak "Chubby" mod.motor, Losi Option motor, 2 KAN 650.mah 7.cell packs, 2 body's, more or less new "Losi Dirt hawk type/kind" tires.

I want 2000 Norwegian kroner for all of it, so good price I think :p

Btw: Have you all noticed that the H8's wheels are a joke? They break on the track within 10.minutes from jumping, hits etc. Also the stock axels are a joke. I've snapped 2 of them on the track. When the wheel snags a sharp bump/rut/stone whateva, the axels simply snaps of where the treads end. I would like to try 3Racings cvd to see if they hold up as a axel should.. But to be fair, I drive on a 1/8 track, so.. But the quality needs to get higher as we all demand more & more power, he he:-)

.5x8
06-05-2005, 02:00 AM
Hey .5x8 :)

Yeah, for the center-diff, you only need to remove the lexan-cover and squirt it in sort of speak, he he. For the front one you need to open the gearcase/diff. For the rear diff, use only a light grease, this diff should turn VERY free. This will give you a stabil rear-end, which you need ;)

okay the center is easy...for the front and the rear..do i need to unscrew teh diff open..squirt in some grease and rebuild it? or just place some grease on the gears and such?

vindictor67
06-05-2005, 02:10 AM
okay the center is easy...for the front and the rear..do i need to unscrew teh diff open..squirt in some grease and rebuild it? or just place some grease on the gears and such?

Whaaaa???????????????TTTTTTTT :confused: :confused: :confused:

Ronny
06-05-2005, 02:16 AM
okay the center is easy...for the front and the rear..do i need to unscrew teh diff open..squirt in some grease and rebuild it? or just place some grease on the gears and such?

Hey dude :)

In all of the diffs, you need to be sure you get the ggease down/into where the gears mesh with each other.. But remember to NOT use the Mugen OR the Tamiya sticky greases in the rear diff!! This one should go as smooth as possible to give a stable rear-end ;)

Ronny
06-05-2005, 02:18 AM
Whaaaa???????????????TTTTTTTT :confused: :confused: :confused:


HUH What where you confussed about bud?? Speak, and you'll be heard, lol :rolleyes:

Hawk
06-05-2005, 02:22 AM
:)
okay the center is easy...for the front and the rear..do i need to unscrew teh diff open..squirt in some grease and rebuild it? or just place some grease on the gears and such?

Front and rear bulkheads are opened unscrewing the four screws (front has the bumper over the bottom two screws) and pulling the e clips off the just the suspension pins where they protrude from the bulkhead. There are also two screws on the chassis plate underneath in the extreme end that have to be unscrewed. The two farther back will hold the larger inner part of the bulkhead to the chassis and should be left alone. Pull the bulk head pieces apart, the diff and outdrive gears will be plainly viewed at this time. Reverse the procedure to assemble. ;)
Good luck.
Also, if it is the thick grease you are using, don't put it on the input gear that protrudes to the center of the car but on the side gears (three little gears that rotate on the large (ring gear) gear) and the out drive gears.

Ronny
06-05-2005, 02:23 AM
Guys :)

I just ordered these parts:

1 x 3Racing (#MIF-021/TI) Front Swing Shaft (TI)
1 x 3Racing (#MIF-022/TI) Rear Swing Shaft (TI)
1 x 3Racing (#MIF-027/TI) Rear Suspension Holder (2 Degree)
1 x 3Racing (#MIF-018/TI) Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier (TI)
1 x ATOMIC (#AK9) 5.8x6.4mm Pivot Ball 8pcs
1 x ATOMIC (#AK8) 5.8x4.5mm Pivot Ball 8pcs

Anyone tried these parts? Pros/Cons about them? My ride is gonna be sweeeeeeet when it's done... (Crazy Norwegian dude :rolleyes: )

Ronny
06-05-2005, 02:24 AM
:)

Front and rear bulkheads are opened unscrewing the four screws (front has the bumper over the bottom two screws) and pulling the e clips off the just the suspension pins where they protrude from the bulkhead. There are also two screws on the chassis plate underneath in the extreme end that have to be unscrewed. The two farther back will hold the larger inner part of the bulkhead to the chassis and should be left alone. Pull the bulk head pieces apart, the diff and outdrive gears will be plainly viewed at this time. Reverse the procedure to assemble. ;)
Good luck.
Also, if it is the thick grease you are using, don't put it on the input gear that protrudes to the center of the car but on the side gears (three little gears that rotate on the large (ring gear) gear) and the out drive gears.


Very nice Hawk ;)

Hawk
06-05-2005, 02:26 AM
Guys :)

I just ordered these parts:

1 x 3Racing (#MIF-021/TI) Front Swing Shaft (TI)
1 x 3Racing (#MIF-022/TI) Rear Swing Shaft (TI)
1 x 3Racing (#MIF-027/TI) Rear Suspension Holder (2 Degree)
1 x 3Racing (#MIF-018/TI) Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier (TI)
1 x ATOMIC (#AK9) 5.8x6.4mm Pivot Ball 8pcs
1 x ATOMIC (#AK8) 5.8x4.5mm Pivot Ball 8pcs

Anyone tried these parts? Pros/Cons about them? My ride is gonna be sweeeeeeet when it's done... (Crazy Norwegian dude :rolleyes: )

Ronny,
I want to hear what you think of the Rear suspension holders. I am waiting on the alloy front suspension hubs and was wondering about the rears. As for the Swing Shafts, I have installed them and I posted in a thread my review of them.
:rolleyes:

Ronny
06-05-2005, 02:46 AM
Ronny,
I want to hear what you think of the Rear suspension holders. I am waiting on the alloy front suspension hubs and was wondering about the rears. As for the Swing Shafts, I have installed them and I posted in a thread my review of them.
:rolleyes:


Hawk:-)

I just read it :D

You got the front steering-knuckles?? I want those in TI color also. I sent my order as mentioned here for just an hour ago. The steering-knuckles wasen't available at RC-MART then.. Where did you get yours??.. Btw, I'm jumping to bed now, it's 04.40 in the night here, so.. As soon as I've tested the rear hubs, rear toe-in block etc, I'll tell ya.. TTYL later!

Hawk
06-05-2005, 06:32 AM
Hawk:-)

I just read it :D

You got the front steering-knuckles?? I want those in TI color also. I sent my order as mentioned here for just an hour ago. The steering-knuckles wasen't available at RC-MART then.. Where did you get yours??.. Btw, I'm jumping to bed now, it's 04.40 in the night here, so.. As soon as I've tested the rear hubs, rear toe-in block etc, I'll tell ya.. TTYL later!

Sorry Ronny, I am waiting for them to be available. I haven't found them yet on any site. I wanted the swingshafts, alloy knuckles and oil shocks/springs as the most important mods for a decent car. As soon as I find them I will be sure and give you a shout.
I also am interested in the ball diff idea. I have been looking around for a candidate to modify for our application. As you probably know, nearly all of the ball diffs available are driven by a parallel spur, not a one at 90 degrees. This presents a problem that won't be easy to overcome. :confused:

By the way, I read you a lot on the Ronny's Corner on NeoBuggy. I don't go there any more but I remember your uncanny ability to give excellent advise on setting up a buggy just from a description of a track from racers on the board. I have printed your setup on the H8 and will definetly use it as my base setup. Good to hear from you again.

souliisoul
06-05-2005, 02:43 PM
Sweet, thanks. :p . I will post as much as I have time too:-)

Ronny
Great site for great buggy. I am also from neo-buggy and will be visiting this site often.

I have just bought the competition-x motot and esc but will dial it in at lower speed as to not melt my diffs :)

Catch you later

Soul

.5x8
06-05-2005, 02:53 PM
i might consider a cometition x.....i know i would have tons of speed..and i can be easy on the throttle limiting the speed...and if im going twords a big jump..i can use the power i have...i am lubing the diffs right now..and im using pretty thick oil..ill go a little bit less grease in the back so its stable..but for front and center..nice and greasy..lol :D the only thing is that it has a heat problem..so its either a 4900 aon..or a 6800 mamba.

Ronny
06-05-2005, 10:50 PM
Sorry Ronny, I am waiting for them to be available. I haven't found them yet on any site. I wanted the swingshafts, alloy knuckles and oil shocks/springs as the most important mods for a decent car. As soon as I find them I will be sure and give you a shout.
I also am interested in the ball diff idea. I have been looking around for a candidate to modify for our application. As you probably know, nearly all of the ball diffs available are driven by a parallel spur, not a one at 90 degrees. This presents a problem that won't be easy to overcome. :confused:

By the way, I read you a lot on the Ronny's Corner on NeoBuggy. I don't go there any more but I remember your uncanny ability to give excellent advise on setting up a buggy just from a description of a track from racers on the board. I have printed your setup on the H8 and will definetly use it as my base setup. Good to hear from you again.

Hawk :)

thanks for the kind words.. I try to do my best, lol..

Ronny
06-05-2005, 10:52 PM
Great site for great buggy. I am also from neo-buggy and will be visiting this site often.

I have just bought the competition-x motot and esc but will dial it in at lower speed as to not melt my diffs :)

Catch you later

Soul

Soul :)

Dude, cool that you dropped in here.. Hey guys, this is a bud from Neo-buggy, his name is Soul, and he's a nice guy :D
Good to hear from you bud ;)

Ronny
06-05-2005, 10:58 PM
i might consider a cometition x.....i know i would have tons of speed..and i can be easy on the throttle limiting the speed...and if im going twords a big jump..i can use the power i have...i am lubing the diffs right now..and im using pretty thick oil..ill go a little bit less grease in the back so its stable..but for front and center..nice and greasy..lol :D the only thing is that it has a heat problem..so its either a 4900 aon..or a 6800 mamba.


I use as you know the Mini AC motor, and it's supa-dialed for this buggy.. It runs "cool".. I use a 14-16 pinion, and it's faster then you would ever need on a track.. Unfortunatly something has broken inside my Mamba 6800 after only 10-12 runs in my Losi, so I haven't been able to get to test it in the H( more the 2 times :(

Ronny
06-07-2005, 01:21 AM
Guys:-)

Anyone having problems with original rims cracking?? I've gone thru 2 sets now

vindictor67
06-07-2005, 01:45 AM
You must drive like Bit Hed ;) LOL You could always go into business selling the BitHex mod with your ruined rims...... :D

BitHed
06-07-2005, 01:47 AM
...actually the BitHex mod is quite popular here in Japan ;) We cant ge the trinity adaptors and this mod is so cheap and so helpful that I am for a Nobel Award :D APPRENTLY the spoked rims coming out mid-June will be better plastic...

Ronny
06-07-2005, 03:03 AM
...actually the BitHex mod is quite popular here in Japan ;) We cant ge the trinity adaptors and this mod is so cheap and so helpful that I am for a Nobel Award :D APPRENTLY the spoked rims coming out mid-June will be better plastic...

BitHed my man:-) How are you?

Tell papa what BitHex modd is??

BitHed
06-07-2005, 03:13 AM
...Sup Daddy'O...Your wish is my command :)

BitHex (http://halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213&highlight=bithex)

.5x8
06-07-2005, 03:26 AM
nice mod!!!! good job bit!! your so smarrrt :D

Ronny
06-07-2005, 03:27 AM
Sweet:-) Thanks!! I used a hex from Schumacher's 10.th Touring car & the pins from Schumacher also, as they are longer to match the wider hexes. It worked very well, but need rims with a lot of off-set to hinder rubbing on the arms/hub.. Also, you need a brass-tubing with 5.mm outer size, and 4.1.mm inner size to slip over the original H8 axel which is 4.mm. Then just cut it to match the lenght needed, and drill a hole for the axel-pin. Slip on the hex, and your ready to go:-)

BitHed
06-07-2005, 03:30 AM
...dood you gotta post pics of THAT one...Sounds like the mod i have in my mind but i dont have the balls to do :D I though about cutting the axle post off and replacing it altogether, while keeping the stock parts that sit IN the knuckle between the bearings...But get us pics of yours for sure...You show me yours and ill show you mine ;)

Ronny
06-07-2005, 03:37 AM
...dood you gotta post pics of THAT one...Sounds like the mod i have in my mind but i dont have the balls to do :D I though about cutting the axle post off and replacing it altogether, while keeping the stock parts that sit IN the knuckle between the bearings...But get us pics of yours for sure...You show me yours and ill show you mine ;)

Haha, Papa has the balls :eek:
But I'm supposed to go to bed now bro :( But what the h''', sure, give me 15 minutes and I'll fix it;-)

Ronny
06-07-2005, 04:15 AM
http://eshare.hpphoto.com/no/home/welcome.asp?JobID=8e6ad9cb-28f7-4280-b2de-c5f52e0da89e#

BitHed
06-07-2005, 04:39 AM
...ok i got ya now...clever boy...and thanks for that lube advice...I will get onto that tonight and get back to where i was BEFORE i over-lubed :o Should I be posting these shots in here? Ok i will get on it but i have some tests to mark first...

Ronny
06-08-2005, 05:58 PM
...ok i got ya now...clever boy...and thanks for that lube advice...I will get onto that tonight and get back to where i was BEFORE i over-lubed :o Should I be posting these shots in here? Ok i will get on it but i have some tests to mark first...

So BitHed, wasup?? Have you gotten into the modding yet? TTYL :cool:

SteinR
06-13-2005, 07:17 AM
Hi Ronny,

Seems like 3R plan on making you happy by offering us ball diffs :)

http://www.3racing.com.hk/options.jsp?manu_id=Kyosho&carkit=MINIINFERNO

Stein

akura2
06-13-2005, 11:07 AM
Sweet:-) Thanks!! I used a hex from Schumacher's 10.th Touring car & the pins from Schumacher also, as they are longer to match the wider hexes. It worked very well, but need rims with a lot of off-set to hinder rubbing on the arms/hub.. Also, you need a brass-tubing with 5.mm outer size, and 4.1.mm inner size to slip over the original H8 axel which is 4.mm. Then just cut it to match the lenght needed, and drill a hole for the axel-pin. Slip on the hex, and your ready to go:-)

That's cool... i tried some yokomo hexes on mine before I bought the Trinitys but they had that wobble... didn;'t think to put "adaptor tubes" on the axles...

that's kind of how the trinity pieces work... plus they would be shallower to allow for more axle threads to be exposed... but being moew shallow also means running wheels with more offset like the HPI mesh wheels with the 3mm ofset for instance...

and as far as the ball diffs.... Kyosho's not going to have a chance to make any money on aftermarket parts... every one else has already flooded the market with quality accessories for our cars... it's ridiculous...

I mentioned ball diffs about a week and a hlaf ago... and "POOF" there they are... although it says "Ball diff shaft" I'm sure they mean ball diff....wow front rear AND center.... my dreams have been answered.... now CAW should make the slipper eliminator spur gear I talked about, so that we can adjust the slip at the ball diffs instead of the slipper...

Ronny
06-14-2005, 06:52 AM
Hi Ronny,

Seems like 3R plan on making you happy by offering us ball diffs :)

http://www.3racing.com.hk/options.jsp?manu_id=Kyosho&carkit=MINIINFERNO

Stein

YES YES YES YES YEEEEEES!!!!!!! JOOHOOO, this just confirms what I already have said, USE 3RACING option parts, they are No.1!

I just got another package from HK with some 3Racing parts yesterday. I got the aluminium rear hubs, universal axles for F&R. I haven't driven with them yet, but the parts, finish, fit are second to none. 3Racing have done there home-work perfectly if you ask me :D

STEIN :) Thanks for the very appriciated info.. As you are a Norwegian also, we should hook up and drive a few laps ;) Contact me if interested. I work at Hobbyland/Strømmen on Saturday's, but are not going to work next week-end, as I'm driving a race with my 1/8 Mugen that weekend. Or send me a message here..

TTYL

JonteJsson
06-14-2005, 11:36 AM
Yeah, in Sweden I guess ;)
Nice that they used your idea with balldiffs..
I think that I've maybe got to buy 3 of these..
btw, what do you all think would happen if U used 1 ball diff and the 2 stock diffs? :confused:

Ronny
06-14-2005, 07:45 PM
Yeah, in Sweden I guess ;)
Nice that they used your idea with balldiffs..
I think that I've maybe got to buy 3 of these..
btw, what do you all think would happen if U used 1 ball diff and the 2 stock diffs? :confused:

Hey Jonte:-)

The position where you would put the ball-diff, will have more direct traction.. Example is the stock setup. If you look at your tires, you will see that your front tires are way more worn then the rears. This is because, as you pull the trigger hard, the car squats in the rear, making the front very light. So when this happens, the rear end have way more grip then the fronts, as the weight is pushed backwards as the car squats/tilts backwards.. This then sends a message to the Center-diff that it's much easier to rotat the light front end versus the rear that is VERY planted under accleration.

SO! This means that you will get rid of this problem by putting in a center-diff that doesen't "un-load" as easy as the current stock-diff do, to give a more "permanent" 4.wd - even under accleration.. See ;)

SteinR
06-16-2005, 06:27 AM
STEIN :) Thanks for the very appriciated info.. As you are a Norwegian also, we should hook up and drive a few laps ;) Contact me if interested. I work at Hobbyland/Strømmen on Saturday's, but are not going to work next week-end, as I'm driving a race with my 1/8 Mugen that weekend. Or send me a message here..

Hi Ronny,

I'd like to hook up with you, but as I'm located in Stavanger there is a slight distance problem......

Stein

BitHed
06-16-2005, 06:48 AM
...ronny once agin your explanation of the physics of this is purely brilliant..Thankyou :x

Ronny
06-20-2005, 01:34 AM
Hi Ronny,

I'd like to hook up with you, but as I'm located in Stavanger there is a slight distance problem......

Stein

Stein :)

Sorry to hear that, but IF by any chance I should go to Stavanger, or you to Oslo - we'll hook up ;)

Ronny
06-20-2005, 01:37 AM
...ronny once agin your explanation of the physics of this is purely brilliant..Thankyou :x

BitHed my brother :)

Hehe, well :o :o Thanks, I imagen things to be easier to understand if I explain a bit more visually :D

janniz
06-25-2005, 11:08 AM
I use as you know the Mini AC motor, and it's supa-dialed for this buggy..

Hi Ronny,
I wanted to order that motor, too. But then I saw the dimensions: length 47,5 mm (it's the 1215/12, right?) How did you get it in the H8? I also saw your pictures and it looks like it would fit perfectly. But I'm kind of confused because of the length - when I measure this it would hit the steering-posts.
Did you modify anything on your H8 to make it fit?

By the way: great thread, I allready learned a lot while reading it! Thanks!

janniz
06-25-2005, 08:48 PM
I guess I just found it out myself: 47,5 is the total length with shaft... oh man, sometimes I'm really stupid :D

.5x8
06-25-2005, 10:36 PM
ronny...so i would get better traction if i put the ball diff in the center? the front and rear would have even traction wouldnt it? lol..maybe....i would like all 3 diffs =] its not that hard..plus i got my money =] lol lets just not blow it all off so i can actually go to socal =]

Hawk
07-13-2005, 08:46 PM
to the top :cool:

Sideshow
07-14-2005, 01:40 AM
Wow...Pro Mugen guy on here. Sweet.


Ahh you guys are making me want to do work for the money to get my half 8 :D

liquidsky
07-26-2005, 08:19 AM
Hi Ron,

On page 1 of this thread you were saying wt is 12.5 from cc? How about in cps? as it is the international standard. And what brand of oil are you using? Kyosho? Mugen?Losi? I'm asking this because every manufacturer has their own measurement system. Ex:
This is from Team Losi:
100=10
150=15
200=20
275=25
300=27.5
350=30
400=32.5
425=35
450=37.5
500=40

Losi oil is 2.5 thinner then Team Associated, so compared to AE oil:
100= 7.5
150=12.5
200=17.5
275=22.5
300=25
350=27.5
400=30
425=32.5
450=35
500-37.5

This has been a problem with xrays oil too, as people were following setups from the xrays team driver and thought it were the same measurement for all types of brand oils.

Just want to clear things here, so people wont get mixed up. You can check the oil conversions of different brands in www.twf8.ws under shocks i think

Mini-Devil
07-27-2005, 02:56 PM
Hi Ronny, and thanks for the very valuable data!

If I understand well, you suggest to use Mugen Super Grease in the front and central diffs. So what kind of grease (viscosity?) would you use on the rear diff?

holy_inferno
07-27-2005, 09:05 PM
Grease doesn't have viscosity, does it? I think you're thinking about diff fluids, not grease. Mugen Super Grease is sticky so that it doesn't fly off the gears the moment you acclerate. :)

Hawk
07-27-2005, 10:07 PM
Grease doesn't have viscosity, does it? I think you're thinking about diff fluids, not grease. Mugen Super Grease is sticky so that it doesn't fly off the gears the moment you acclerate. :)

Yes, in fact it is correct to refer to viscosity concerning grease. Look here:http://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/apparent_viscosity_grease.htm
:cool:

signats
07-27-2005, 10:16 PM
For the rear diff you would want a lubricating type of grease, so the diff is very smooth and spins nice and free.

My favorite is the Losi 3066, thrust bearing/assembly grease. IMHO it is the wd-40 of grease, I use it on ball diff thrust bearings, shock seal o-rings (instead of green slime), and any other time a long lasting super slippy grease is needed.... like in the rear diff of the Half 8.

holy_inferno
07-27-2005, 11:13 PM
Heh, I didn't know that, sorry for any confusion. :)
The lubricant I use in my Mini Inferno is the one that's available at my LHS, Associated Stealth Diff Lube...works fine for me. :)

signats
07-27-2005, 11:34 PM
Stealth diff lube should work pretty good, it is designed for ball diffs, so it has microscopic silica grit in it to help the ball diff do it's magic, but it is smooth and clingy and the grit is so fine you will never even notice, for sure it is way better than no grease at all. ;)

neu79
07-28-2005, 04:33 PM
Hi! I'm new to these boards and i just wanted to say that this is by far the most informative board out there for the mini inferno... thanks for all the great tips!... anyways i'm writing because im not sure which grease to use for the different diffs. Is the Mugen Super Grease that everyone's talking about in this thread similar to the Mugen Silicon for the Diff (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKKD7&P=7)? If not can i get a link to the correct one you are reffering to. I'm pretty new to the r/c stuff and i just wanna make sure i do everything the correct way. Thanks in advance.


Greg
neukraze79:

maxxenitout
07-28-2005, 05:08 PM
I think this is the grease everyone seems to use...
http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID5007088P3545009-Grease/Mugen-Super-Joint-Grease-CVD-Grease.aspx
not sure i've been using this one I had laying around in my toolbox, not to sticky but it works. I will be changing it as soon as a rebuild is needed.

plain_simple
07-28-2005, 06:03 PM
Actually right now i'm using Tamiya AW (AW stands for Anty Wear) and it works great too and before that i used the Mugen Grease but not that one, the one that comes on a white tube

signats
07-28-2005, 11:21 PM
Mugen Super grease:

http://www.onroadhobbies.com/popup_image.php?pID=279

It is very sticky, only need to use a small ammount on the inner gears (spyder and outdrive) in front and center diffs., try not to get it on the outer (ring/crown and pinion) diff. gears if you can help it because it will cause parasitic drag.

These guys sell it: http://www.onroadhobbies.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=5&products_id=279&osCsid=5cc1a57ef4b7d17ea5b84000bab78f47

BitHed
07-29-2005, 03:08 AM
...i used TAMIYA Titanium which was TOO light, then TAMIYA Anti Wear which was good but i felt still slightly too light and then i moved up to MUGEN Super Grease...

...The titanium stuff seemed to fly off and be in places I didnt want it to be...The Super Grease is unforgiving i feel...If you get it where you DONT want it, it will give you 'parasitic drag' (BIG shout out to Signats for that EXTREMELY useful expression; that is SO what it does!!) The Anti Wear is good...stays put and does the job...Its a little trickier to apply than the Super Grease but i am beginning to think that the Anti Wear is 'generally' a better choice...My diff just hasnt been 'yummy' since I shifted to MUGEN...Its great stuff though...But Ronny is the expert...

signats
07-29-2005, 10:04 AM
Mugen super grease is as tricky (to apply) as it is sticky.

The local hobby shops around here all sell little syringes.

I put the Mugen super grease in one and use it to surgically apply the stuff, it is much easier and less messy to deal with that way.

plain_simple
07-29-2005, 03:02 PM
are you sure you didnt took that from my house?! thats exactly how i do it too lmaoooo :D

Ronny
08-07-2005, 12:41 PM
...i used TAMIYA Titanium which was TOO light, then TAMIYA Anti Wear which was good but i felt still slightly too light and then i moved up to MUGEN Super Grease...

...The titanium stuff seemed to fly off and be in places I didnt want it to be...The Super Grease is unforgiving i feel...If you get it where you DONT want it, it will give you 'parasitic drag' (BIG shout out to Signats for that EXTREMELY useful expression; that is SO what it does!!) The Anti Wear is good...stays put and does the job...Its a little trickier to apply than the Super Grease but i am beginning to think that the Anti Wear is 'generally' a better choice...My diff just hasnt been 'yummy' since I shifted to MUGEN...Its great stuff though...But Ronny is the expert...

Hey guys:-)

I like both greases a lot. The Mugen grease ia a little "thicker". I would suggest the Tamiya AW grease in the front diff, Mugen's in the center, and a normal grease-type for the rear :D

Ronny
08-07-2005, 12:48 PM
Hi Ronny,
I wanted to order that motor, too. But then I saw the dimensions: length 47,5 mm (it's the 1215/12, right?) How did you get it in the H8? I also saw your pictures and it looks like it would fit perfectly. But I'm kind of confused because of the length - when I measure this it would hit the steering-posts.
Did you modify anything on your H8 to make it fit?

By the way: great thread, I allready learned a lot while reading it! Thanks!


Hey janniz:-)

The motor is a PERFECT FIT, slips in like a hand in a glove:-)

Ronny

Ronny
08-07-2005, 12:49 PM
Hey janniz:-)

The motor is a PERFECT FIT, slips in like a hand in a glove:-)

Ronny

Ronny
08-07-2005, 12:53 PM
ronny...so i would get better traction if i put the ball diff in the center? the front and rear would have even traction wouldnt it? lol..maybe....i would like all 3 diffs =] its not that hard..plus i got my money =] lol lets just not blow it all off so i can actually go to socal =]

Hey man:-)

Get all 3 if you can afford. The rear one should be "lighter" to turn then the front and center. Adjust the F & C a little if they are made to adjust like ordinary ball-diffs.. If you can only get 2, get the F & C, and put std, light type of grease in the rear org. diff. This will make sure your car stays stable:-)

Ronny

Ronny
08-07-2005, 12:55 PM
Wow...Pro Mugen guy on here. Sweet.


Ahh you guys are making me want to do work for the money to get my half 8 :D

THANKS!

Ronny

Ronny
08-07-2005, 12:58 PM
Hi Ron,

On page 1 of this thread you were saying wt is 12.5 from cc? How about in cps? as it is the international standard. And what brand of oil are you using? Kyosho? Mugen?Losi? I'm asking this because every manufacturer has their own measurement system. Ex:
This is from Team Losi:
100=10
150=15
200=20
275=25
300=27.5
350=30
400=32.5
425=35
450=37.5
500=40

Losi oil is 2.5 thinner then Team Associated, so compared to AE oil:
100= 7.5
150=12.5
200=17.5
275=22.5
300=25
350=27.5
400=30
425=32.5
450=35
500-37.5

This has been a problem with xrays oil too, as people were following setups from the xrays team driver and thought it were the same measurement for all types of brand oils.

Just want to clear things here, so people wont get mixed up. You can check the oil conversions of different brands in www.twf8.ws under shocks i think

Good call.. I WAS refering to CPS actually,. but on the bottles it says CC, so to make it easier for the readers I chose to say CC. Sorry, but I should have said the correct term, which is CPS ;)

Thanks :)

Ronny

Ronny
08-07-2005, 01:01 PM
Hi Ronny, and thanks for the very valuable data!

If I understand well, you suggest to use Mugen Super Grease in the front and central diffs. So what kind of grease (viscosity?) would you use on the rear diff?

Your more than welcome Devil-boy :D Check out page 12 (I think) Tamiya AW in front, Mugen Super Grease in the Center, and std light type grease in the rear ;)

Ronny

thedirt
08-08-2005, 09:48 PM
Hey Ronny, nice to see you on here. Can you post the part numbers for the grases you use (Tamiya AW, Mugen Super Grease and other grease you use in the rear)?

If you could that would greatly appreciated as I would like to order the correct stuff.

Thanks

Ronny
08-09-2005, 10:21 PM
Hey Ronny, nice to see you on here. Can you post the part numbers for the grases you use (Tamiya AW, Mugen Super Grease and other grease you use in the rear)?

If you could that would greatly appreciated as I would like to order the correct stuff.

Thanks

Hey:-)

Mugen Super Grease: B0308, Tamiya AW:53439, other grease for the rear, you can use what ever you like. But my alltime favorite-grease (light type) is Super Lube, synthetic grease from SYNCO Cemical Corporation (USA). I use this grease everywhere ;)

thedirt
08-10-2005, 07:38 PM
Thanks Ronny, I will have to order these greases.

sanny632
09-06-2005, 03:47 AM
i am very new to this h8, i just got it on friday so far i've put

3 racing front aluminum hubs

3racing oil shock which i rebuilt w/ two hole pistons/ 35 team assotiated oil, yet they still suck my mini t's shock work awsome i cant get these to work well.

3 racing aluminum shock towers
3racing ti turnbuckels
3 racing cvd's
i live in the US so it is hard to get parts but do u think i should ditch the 3racing shocks and goto kyosho?

BitHed
09-06-2005, 03:53 AM
...YES :D...Welcome to the boards Sanny...Good to have you aboard...

...I am leaning towards ATOMIC for the drive train, 3RACING for chassis mods and KYOSHO for anything 'else'...Although the KYOSHO parts ARE expensive the shox will pay for themselves in the long run...easy to put together...trouble free...and titanium shafts on the horizon...They ARE an initial expense but they ARE worth it...

Hawk
09-06-2005, 05:18 AM
Check it out, on neobuggy they have a pic of Ronny after winning the Norwegian championship.
http://neobuggy.net/

Go Ronny!! :cool:

BitHed
09-06-2005, 05:23 AM
..GO RONNY!! You ROCK BRAH!!!


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v258/bithed/ronnyc-05.jpg

...graphic kindly borrowed from neobuggy.net :cool:

...WOW Dood!!! Nice watch lol...

mat3833
09-06-2005, 10:48 PM
hey!! do any of you know a place that i can get an inferno cheap? any rollers out there! i want one bad but i cant find a good roller. i have a mamba and plan to get the AON. i will have a traxxas bandit that needs a few small parts, and like 30 bucks. i could trade or maby buy. i need some help!! please.

Matt

Hawk
09-07-2005, 03:16 AM
Hang in there Mat, people are going to start unloading this years buggy for a new sp2 or Prospec. You should be able to pick up a roller pretty cheap closer to the first of the year. :cool:
I know I will be building a new SP2 car in November and it looks like a ST along with it. I will be over stocked by one MP777 SP1 chassis with all the goodies. Have to sell it all as it only makes sense to replace everything on a new chasis. We will be breaking setting up and breaking in the new platform in December on an indoor track getting ready for March and the Dirt Nitro challenge and the Silver State after that.

mat3833
09-07-2005, 04:06 PM
i was talking about the mini inferno, but if you get a 1/8 buggy for sale or trade type me a line. i want to have a mini inferno because i dont realy have room to drive a 1/8. thanks for the coment. also what are the best starting hopups?

Matt

mat3833
09-07-2005, 08:48 PM
oh and look at this-http://www.badhorsie.com/products/diff-lock-grease.html. i kno how you were looking for thick grease and this stuff as i have heard it is like geurilla glue!! it wont come off. this is just what i have heard so dont hold it agenst me if it is not that sticky. hope this helps. and if anyone has a mini contact me!! lol

Matt

Ronny
09-09-2005, 12:27 AM
HI GUYS :)

Thanks a billion for your congrat's, they are very much appriciated :o

First of all guys, sorry for not being around, but as you see, I've been a busy bee.. Actually I'm way out of time as it is, cause we are running the last round of the Norwegian Cup on Saturday, and I'm just finished cleaning up my Mugen after the Nats. After that, I'm flying over to compete in a race in Holland along with my Dutch sponsor, Frank from Racing+.

Anyway, I just picked up my baby (H8;) - and I felt an urge to drive it. I just browsed around on Dinball/RC-Mart's site, and saw a lot of new nice bling-bling, he he.. I've put up a sweet list of order, and I'll just get some cash in, and I'm rocking with a neeeewww hoooottttttteeerr riiiiiiiiide for ya to see!!
Same electronic specs, except for a Spectrum receiver, and with other sweet cookies mounted..

Btw, after intensive testing (on the Nordic Champ 1/8 OR track f.exampl) -
I have found the original Kyosho oilshocks to be WAY better then the 3Racing shocks.
I have the highest respect for 3Racing products as you all know (I only use them so far, so), but in this case, the shocks, they get SMOKED by the big K!

Guys, real nice to see that my corner is well visited, and top.ranked!,. seriously, THANKS guys!!! BitHed, the watch, it's a Adidas, cool, huh.

Let me quote Arnold for a sec,.. I'LL BE BACK! (Shortly;-)

BitHed
09-09-2005, 01:33 AM
...hey ronny...congrats on your success ;) And yes this is a GREAT thread...Keep up the good work...

...the KYOSHO shox ARE the best...I will have some information and parts numbers soon to make them even BETTER!!

mat3833
09-10-2005, 07:27 PM
are the kyocho shox threaded? and did anyone look at the grease here-http://www.badhorsie.com/products/diff-lock-grease.html? it looks good.

Matt

Inferno454
09-11-2005, 02:23 PM
The kyosho shocks arent threaded.

Ronny
09-12-2005, 11:07 PM
are the kyocho shox threaded? and did anyone look at the grease here-http://www.badhorsie.com/products/diff-lock-grease.html? it looks good.

Matt

Hi Matt :)

I took a quick look at the grease you kindly informed us about. I does look very promising indeed, well done ;) Now we only need to test it :cool:

I'm actually awaiting the Atomic Center balldiff for testing. It should arrive tomorrow, or wedsday at the latest. A friend of mine has build a track, so if the weather holds up on wendsday & thursday, I'll test with std & the new ball unit..

Regarding the K-shocks, as already stated are not threaded, and I personally like that way better, as there is no differance accidentely :eek:

mat3833
09-13-2005, 03:22 PM
i just like threaded.... ok i need a roling chassi does anyone have one? i have some lipo stuff and a few cars i could trade. if you kno of one let me kno!!

Matt

plain_simple
09-13-2005, 03:33 PM
Let us know what you think and feel about the atomic ball diff's... there's a subject i'm interested in... Congrats on the winning pattern, keep it up man ;)

Ronny
09-13-2005, 11:52 PM
Let us know what you think and feel about the atomic ball diff's... there's a subject i'm interested in... Congrats on the winning pattern, keep it up man ;)


I will:-) The package has arrived Norway's post-system now, so I hopfully will get it tomorrow :D

And thanks for your kind words, I'm done racing for this year - exept for the Neo-Invitational in November :)

Hawk
09-14-2005, 12:14 AM
Ronny,
Congrats on your successes. You the man!

Have you seen the truggys (unlimited monster trucks) in Europe lately? They seem to be taking off here.
:cool:

BitHed
09-15-2005, 12:12 AM
...Hey kids..Lets try and stay on track and remember that this 'Ronny's Corner'...if we could try and keep things referring back to Ronny that would be good...I know its a good thread and he is full of information but its getting difficult to follow what the hell is happening...Peace...

Ronny
09-15-2005, 01:44 AM
Ronny,
Congrats on your successes. You the man!

Have you seen the truggys (unlimited monster trucks) in Europe lately? They seem to be taking off here.
:cool:

Hi Hawk-man, THANKS :)

Nooo, I can't say it has hit Norway with storm, but I hear that they are a lot of fun. Personally, I hate monster-trucks - so much actually, that I'm feeling a bit sick just mentioning them, he he he, no - not that bad Hawk, but close.

I myself, LOVE 1/8 Buggy's of course. I LOVE my H8, and I digg my touring car that has been resting on the shelf for 1 1/2 years now. Which is a shame actually, as this ride is wicked. Costed approxamatly 3000$ to make it wicked, but what the hell, I NEED THE SPEED :rolleyes:

As your question now is, what the ****, which car is this?? He he, well - it started out as a brand new V-one-RR, and was quickly tranformed to a full K-factory alu.ride, with Futaba low profile digi servo's, HRS system, and to proppell it, a O.S 12TR Turbo :eek:

Btw, nice hearing from you again!

Ronny
09-15-2005, 02:17 AM
:confused:
...Hey kids..Lets try and stay on track and remember that this 'Ronny's Corner'...if we could try and keep things referring back to Ronny that would be good...I know its a good thread and he is full of information but its getting difficult to follow what the hell is happening...Peace...

Hey BitHed :)

He he, looking out for me, huh, that's nice - but no prob for me. I digg you guys & your questions regardless what car, scale or whateva, I'm here for you if I can be of assistent to serious questions.

So, my H8 BitHed, it is now sooo wicked that I can't wait to get it out and dirty, he he.. I sold the one you saw the picture of, and invested in a new one that I'm getting super-dialed beone my earlier imagination, just listen to my work so far, and what to come. Btw, I do consider weight-issues very important, (now, 850.g w/o body) so I'm not "stacking up" with un-nessesary shit, oops, parden my French sir, bling-bling was the word I was looking for :o


ELECTRONICS:
Mamba 25 speedcontroller, Deans mini-plugs, A/C Mini 12.t brushless motor, Orion mached 8 cell packs, Spectrum receiver, awaiting Futaba S9650 digital servo (Hitec 85MG in use now) Futaba 3PK w/Spectrum module..

OPTIONS:
Kyosho oil-shocks, Kyosho Red springs, 1 set of Kyosho X-pattern tires, 1 set of Micro-block tires, 3 Racing front & rear swing-shafts, F&R alu.shock-towers, rear 3 degree toe-in block, F&R roll-bars, alu.steering-knuckles/blocks, front upper suspention holder, carbon-top plate, carbon servo/antenna plate, titan turnbuckles, titan torqe-rods, alu wheel-hex, Atomic centre ball-diff.

More will come also :rolleyes:

Btw, important info to you.. I have found that if you tighten the wheels too hard, they will snag, and rotate poorly.. To fix this, take out your Dremel - put on a FLAT grinding-stone, and dremel the wheel-hex in the wheel down a millimeter or so.. You see, the hex-hole in the wheel is a little "deeper then the plastic/alu-hex on the axel is thick, so the wheel when tighten too hard - will rubb against the rear hub/upright and slow the rotation down.!.

AND! I know some clever guy is gonna say, pssss - much easier to just put a small spacer or shim outside on the hex to get the wheel out a little... Don't, coz you have to remember that the wheel "rests" towards the hex on the axel. This means that if the wheel isen't resting FLAT to the hex, your wheel will be wiggeling/giving back&forth while driving, giving you a highly un-stable car when acclerating/braking, and when ever it gets sideways force.. So do yourself a favor, and grind the wheels down a millimeter instead. And it's not so crucial if you grind a LITTLE un-straight, coz in the end, the point is to make sure that the formentioned edge around the hex is not touching the rear hub/upright when tighten hard. It's the flat inside of the hex in the wheel that should rest against the hex on the axel, and when it does, the edge around the hex should not tough the rear hub/upright. Voila!!

Opps, hope you understood what I meant, he he.

plain_simple
09-15-2005, 04:20 PM
I did and agree.. actually i've been doing so since the very beggining ;) another thing is to use a eamer and open a lil more the wheel hole's. just a lil bit so you wont need superman's strenght to get them off

EphiDelt490
09-15-2005, 06:32 PM
Man, I just stumbled into this thread. Ronny you rock man, your tips are spot-on :). Look forward to seeing your response to the Atomic diffs.

-Adam

plain_simple
09-15-2005, 08:49 PM
Yep he surely is Adam...
eamer means reamer on the post above ;) my keyboard doesnt likes the r's i guess lmao

Ronny
09-18-2005, 07:20 PM
Hi guys :)

Thanks for the kind words, they warm you know- :o

Ps, Adam - cool you stumbled in here, STAY..

Ok, I have some info for you guys after visiting a little, special made clay-track for the 1/18 & 1/16.th scales. It's a friend of mine, Thomas that runs a VERY cool place at where he lives. Inside he has 3 Mini-Z track for winther-seasons and such, - outdoors he has buildt the off-road track. You should visit his site to take a look at his crib :eek: There's no pictures of the off-road track yet, but if I know Thomas correct, it will come for sure.. Btw, he even has set up two spot-lights for evening-racing!! Got to love him, huh.

http://www.miniracing.no

Atomic centre diff: Not good, not good at all! Sorry Atomic, you did build a nice, smooth brilliant looking diff, - BUT.. The diff dot fit! The overall diameter, or the theeths are too long compared to stock diff. This makes up for a VERY VERY tight mesh, so tight in fact that I would never use it. It will kill your motor/speed.c for sure if used, especially under any circumstance that will give the car additional strain, like uphill and such.
I'm very sorry for having to report negative about the Atomic centre-diff, but fact is, beautiful workmanship, but wrong dimention for a smooth rotation, which unfortunatly overshadows the posetive things about it..

Other things tested this day, is:

Kyosho anti-rollbars
3Racing anti-rollbars
3Racing alu.steering knuckles
Associated pinions
Aon 4900Kv motor
Spectrum system
Hitec HS-81MG
Kyosho Micro-Block tires (with "new" spoked rims)

My girlfriend is shouting in here that the pizza is ready, so sorry -I'll come back to the test-results from the other stuff tested, ok..

Ronny

EphiDelt490
09-19-2005, 05:23 PM
That sucks, lol. I ordered one before the hurricane and it has still yet to show. Ronny, think you could shoot me a good setup for the Prospec on an outdoor clay track that gets semi-groove during the day? Email is: w0230878@selu.edu. Thanks and I'm looking forward to your thoughts on the rest of the stuff as well.

-Adam

Ronny
09-19-2005, 10:06 PM
Hi Adam :)

Of course I'll help you out with your Prospec. I'll send you the setup I won the Nats with ;)

BitHed
09-19-2005, 11:15 PM
...i think you might find that center diff is designed to run with the ATOMIC center gear box...the mesh is adjustbale...ATOMIC has designed everything so that only ATOMIC will work with ATOMIC WELL...The parts WILL work with other brands but its quite obvious what they have done...I have the center hub but NOT the center diff...i goofed...

Ronny
09-20-2005, 05:31 AM
Atomic centre-diff update!

Hi guys :)

Here's a update on the Atomic diff.. I put the diff in a drill, rotated it while using sandpaper lightly on the theeth. The diameter on the Atomic diff was 22.05 mm. and a NEW Kyosho gear is 21.95 mm. So,.. I actually have a confession to make.. I MIGHT have been too hasty to say that the gear-diameter was too big compared to Kyosho's original gear. Yes they are a little different in size, but I found the problem why it was rotating so incredible slow.
And since I have already grinded the theeth on the gear down to 21.90, I can no longer say for sure that the diameter was so much "bigger" that it made the diff go slow. So IF the diff rotates freely without doing anything to the gear itself, I appologize to Atomic for my rushed feedback in this thread!

So, over to the reason I now discovered making the diff ultra slow in rotation. You see, Atomic has slipped on 2 white O-rings on each side of the outdrives. This to make the ball-bearings rotate with the diff, instead of the outdrive rotating inside the bearing. So, yes clever move, but it makes the diff really slow because of the pressure of the diff-housing when screwed together.

Solution: Take away 1 O-ring, replace the O-ring with a Kyosho shim called 8 X 10 I think. They come in a bag with 3 bags inside, which contains 0,1 - 0,2 - 0,3 mm separat. These shims are the ones used to shim 1/8 buggy's axels in the hubs. Inner size is 8.mm, outer I think is 10.mm - and as mentioned, separated in 3 bags with 0,1-0,2-0,3 to get a perfect fit. For me, the perfect fit was using 1 O-ring on the front-faced outdrive, and a 0,2 mm shim on the rear-ward one, after first removing the O-ring on that side of course.

I also replaced the grease that was on the balls with Mugen Super Grease. Now the car has wicked 4.wd, feeling very much like 10.000 in my Mugen Prospec :D

I will try it out later today, and tell you how it was;)

Ronny

BitHed
09-20-2005, 06:45 AM
...Excellent post Ronny...Thanks for that...How are your front and rear diffs set up? I am running ATOMIC rear and front but not center...i was SUPPOSED to get the center too but mistakenly got the center HUB instead :mad: My mistake...i ordered the wrong item :eek: Should my front rear diffs we done up TIGHT and shimmed to remove ANY slop? I will leave the grease as stock because i want to understand the adjustments before i make them...I am SO confused by all this...i just want my car to run like it USED too :)

Ronny
09-20-2005, 08:51 AM
Is there by a miracle ANYONE that can provide me with the oil-filled diffs that will come with the new ST? Anyone? I would love to test these, and give a full report about them.

Also, if there are any passioned manufactors out there who would like me to test & report some products, please don't hesitate to contact me - as I feel this could be something all of us would benefit from, - and also make it easier for people that are reading on this and other forums what to get or not, as I like to "tell it as it is" :rolleyes:. Good products gets good ratings, poor products, well - they would get poor ratings, but also a detailed feedback from me to the manufactor what can be done to make the product better in my opinion.

Ronny

ffactory666
09-20-2005, 08:55 AM
Hey Ronny , great info you are posting here. :)
I to have the atomic centre diff with the regular diffs f/r.Thick grease in the front and thinner grease in the rear.
Now i want the mini to feel like the 1/8th buggies as you have done . How tight have you adjusted the Atomic diff.Iv'e adjusted mine very tight and only slips slightly when i apply alot of and i mean alot of preassure with my hands when i built it.I v' e also locked up the slipper of course.

Now i havn't run it yet , so the car is new.When i greased the f/r diffs i checked the shimming and all is good .Now that i have fitted the Atomic diff if i try to spin the rear wheels with my hand it makes a clicking sound.Iv'e removed the rear diff and re checked it and it's shimmed perfect.Then when i hook it up to the Atomic diff and spin the rear wheels same noise. :confused:

Front does not make the noise.Now when i push the car along the ground ( still waiting for my AON set up and sold the stock motor ) there is no noise and the car sounds good.

Ronny
09-20-2005, 03:52 PM
Hey Ronny , great info you are posting here. :)
I to have the atomic centre diff with the regular diffs f/r.Thick grease in the front and thinner grease in the rear.
Now i want the mini to feel like the 1/8th buggies as you have done . How tight have you adjusted the Atomic diff.Iv'e adjusted mine very tight and only slips slightly when i apply alot of and i mean alot of preassure with my hands when i built it.I v' e also locked up the slipper of course.

Now i havn't run it yet , so the car is new.When i greased the f/r diffs i checked the shimming and all is good .Now that i have fitted the Atomic diff if i try to spin the rear wheels with my hand it makes a clicking sound.Iv'e removed the rear diff and re checked it and it's shimmed perfect.Then when i hook it up to the Atomic diff and spin the rear wheels same noise. :confused:

Front does not make the noise.Now when i push the car along the ground ( still waiting for my AON set up and sold the stock motor ) there is no noise and the car sounds good.

Hey Tripple6 :)

Thanks for your input. Much appriciated.. As you say that you car is brand new, it sounds for me like the new, fresh rear dogbones/outdrives makes a "clicking" noise, but only when the suspention is at full extent.. I had this sound in mine when new, so it might be that bro :confused: Hard to tell from Norway, he he, but it sounds like a mini-mini problem, so you probably don't have to worrie too much about it. But, hey, I KNOW when you have your "rolling chassies" there, fiddeling and such - you'll discover all sorts of small stuff..

Ronny
09-20-2005, 07:35 PM
Hey guys :)

In the search of even more power, I'm getting very curiouse about Lipo's now. I know that I will get a un-even balance in the car by switching to the lighter Lipo's, but have now found a good way of compansating, switching the electronics around, and the use of alu & titan screws on the side that will be the heavy one - that being the front of course. I want to use 7.4.V, and hopfully they are even more powerful the matched Orion 9.6 packs I currently are using with great sucsess. But if I can get more power, lighter car, ok - I'm game for testing this out :confused:

From what I hear/read, United have some good Lipo 7.4 packs. Any others out there that have some names they want to share, as I want the ultimate packs, and I want to get my car about 100 grams lighter then it currently is.

When I find what I'm looking for, I'll of course update you all on my findings ;)

Ronny

janniz
09-20-2005, 07:51 PM
Hey Ronny,

I'd like to know how you like the AON compared to the MiniAC. I tried both and can't tell wich one I like better. Maybe the AON, because you dont have to worry about dirt getting into it and it seems to stay a little cooler than the MiniAC. But I felt like the MiniAC had a little more torque than the AON, acceleration was crazy with the 1215/12. And I like the 2,3mm shaft so I can use the original pinions... and these solder-posts... A mix of both motors would be very nice ;)

I think you also had both of these motors - what do you think about them?

Ronny
09-20-2005, 11:11 PM
Hey Ronny,

I'd like to know how you like the AON compared to the MiniAC. I tried both and can't tell wich one I like better. Maybe the AON, because you dont have to worry about dirt getting into it and it seems to stay a little cooler than the MiniAC. But I felt like the MiniAC had a little more torque than the AON, acceleration was crazy with the 1215/12. And I like the 2,3mm shaft so I can use the original pinions... and these solder-posts... A mix of both motors would be very nice ;)

I think you also had both of these motors - what do you think about them?

Hey janniz :)

Man, it's like you just was in my brain :eek: For the last 3 days this question has been on my mind also. Which motor do I like best. Weird, he he..

Well, janniz, to be perfectly honest with you, I don't have a clue. And the reason for that, is simple. The day I got the AON motor, I also got the latest software programmed into my Mamba - and to make it even worse, I also got different parameters changed, like accleration and cut-off etc.
This was extremly thoughtless of me, as I then could not compare fair at all.

The reason I bought the AON motor is because Thomas, the guy with the track - had way more torqe out of the turns then I had. Bear in mind, this was the day before, and I was running the Mini A/C with the "old" software, and programming. My other bud, the one that bought my 1.st H8, has also the Mini A/C, Mamba and so on. He got the same updated software & programming the same day I got it and had the AON motor installed.

So, with newly updated electronics, new AON motor - I was ready for a fullblown shoot-out with my bud that had my "old" car, updated stuff also, and the Mini A/C. We both used Orion mached packs, 12 tooth gearing, and similar tires for the shoot-out.

Who was fastest?

It's like this: The AON motor pulled out in front with a meter, then two, going arrow-straight down the blacktop. This distance was held for about 15 meter, then the Mini A/C layed down the last gear, and came equally fast as the AON had pulled away in the start.

Conclution of the shoot-out on ASPHALT is:

If the straight-away we where on was 20 meters, the AON motor would have come in the winner with the 2 first meters it gained on the Mini A/C.

BUT, on the other hand, had the straight been 30 meters, the Mini A/C had won with the 2 meters it lost in the beginning of the straight.

This will mean, if you gear the AON motor with 13 theeth, and the Mini A/C with 12 theeth, they shoul perform very very close to equal.

My conclution all toghther is that I rate both of these motors equally highy - and I would have a serious hard time to pick only one to own. I do actually now only own the AON motor, but I plan to get another Mini A/C again also.

Hope this helped you out somewhat janniz :)

BiGRoB21
09-21-2005, 12:50 AM
but does the mini A/C hold up with the heat like the AON does ? or does it get hot like the mambas?

Ronny
09-21-2005, 03:21 AM
but does the mini A/C hold up with the heat like the AON does ? or does it get hot like the mambas?


Hey there :)

Sorry for not including that. Both come in on 65-71 degrees CELSIUS without using any form of extra cooling, heat-sinks or whatever after running one full 9.6.v pack.. The Mamba Esc come in on 55 Celsius.

What the heat would be on a Mamba motor I don't know for sure, but I think you can expect it to be hotter,. and in all fairness - it IS made for the 2.wd 1/18 trucks, so. I would say the Mamba motor, regardless of which one, does a admirable job pushing the H8's 4.wd the way it does. Hot or not :D

But in my book, there is 2 worthy H8 motors, both the Mini A/C and my new AON 4900. I have not yet tryed anyother then these two, love both, could not deside if I had to pick one :confused:

But in the way you ask your question, I would suspect that you already have the AON motor, and wants to know if the Mini A/C is equally good,... YES Rob, it is. If the table was turned, and you had a Mini A/C and asked me if I would recommend the AON motor equally high, I would. They are both keepers bro :D

BiGRoB21
09-21-2005, 03:59 AM
i have a mamba 6800 right now in mine with a small heatsink on it and after a good run on 8 cells im hittin 150 deg.

but i just sealed a deal for the aon 4900 motor. so thats what im going to be useing.

i was just wondering about the temp, because that is y im getting the aon. if the mamba would run cooler i would just keep that in there, but it gets too hot for my liking. the speed is definatley good with the 6800. just the heat kills it.

im going to be moving the 6800 to my rc18t which has a hacker eseries 4900, but lord tht thing is slow!

Ronny
09-21-2005, 04:35 AM
i have a mamba 6800 right now in mine with a small heatsink on it and after a good run on 8 cells im hittin 150 deg.

but i just sealed a deal for the aon 4900 motor. so thats what im going to be useing.

i was just wondering about the temp, because that is y im getting the aon. if the mamba would run cooler i would just keep that in there, but it gets too hot for my liking. the speed is definatley good with the 6800. just the heat kills it.

im going to be moving the 6800 to my rc18t which has a hacker eseries 4900, but lord tht thing is slow!


Cool Rob! Your making a wise move. Get the AON, put the Mamba in the RC18T :D Gear the AON with a 12 theet Associated RC18T pinion, and your set bro :eek:

BiGRoB21
09-21-2005, 04:54 AM
yep, then i will just have to build my track and i will really be set!

janniz
09-21-2005, 08:42 PM
and I would have a serious hard time to pick only one to own

That sure helped ;) I allready thought its best to keep both of them... I now own two Mini-Infernos (got a second one "accidentally" from eBay - I was sure someone would place a higher bid) so now one is AON-powered and the second one runs on MiniAC... and they both kick ass :D

Ronny
09-21-2005, 11:28 PM
That sure helped ;) I allready thought its best to keep both of them... I now own two Mini-Infernos (got a second one "accidentally" from eBay - I was sure someone would place a higher bid) so now one is AON-powered and the second one runs on MiniAC... and they both kick ass :D


He he he, sweeeeeeth :D

Ronny
09-21-2005, 11:32 PM
Hey guys, if you kinda like my tread "Ronny's corner", give it your honest rating, would you? Kinda cool to see what you all think. Like it / hate it :rolleyes:

BiGRoB21
09-21-2005, 11:38 PM
definatley a good thread. you give us alot of tips to help getting our mini infernos running better. you help out any way you can

Ronny
09-22-2005, 02:00 AM
definatley a good thread. you give us alot of tips to help getting our mini infernos running better. you help out any way you can


Hi Rob (is it Rob)? :o

Thanks a lot brother, much appriciated :D

I will do whatever I can to get you and others "dialed". I know for a fact that too much hassel & struggeling really kills the spirit.

I will soon put out a TOTAL setup for the H8, the one I use myself. Hopefully, it will suit a lot of you, and we can all drive killer-cars :)

I try to modify my car for strengt & durability, weight-issues are ALWAYS on my mind, as is speed & torq, so it should be good.

My bud BitHed, H8.com and I will try to give you a some good points where to lay your hard-earned bucks, and make life a little easier in this already exploding marked.

In the end, it's all about having fun :D

BiGRoB21
09-22-2005, 02:51 AM
yes its Rob. lol

i know what you mean about tuning for strength and durability cause thats what i shoot for. i only use alloy on the needed places! i try to save as much weight as possiable too!

i just got my half 8 baout 3 weeks ago (2 days b4 katrina, thanks adam) and when we were evacuating i packed my half 8 and rc18t. my parents told me i wasnt going to bring them but i snuck them ! i wasnt letting them get left behind.

i dont have much on it right now, b/c they wont let me use the cc to order parts. i have to find places to get the parts i need with moneyorders, so the parents dont know. i sent out one money order today for my AON ;).

BiGRoB21
09-22-2005, 03:36 AM
also, just wondering if you noticed that the rear shocks shafts on the 3 racing shocks are the same length as the fronts!! making the rear just like a set of fronts. have you found a shock shaft that will take up the rest of the shock. some type of 10th scale shaft? it looks like a 10th scale front shock shaft will be long enought and the right size? it only needs to be 5 mm's longer to work. but im just wondering if someone has found a shaft that will work ?

Ronny
09-22-2005, 03:38 AM
yes its Rob. lol

i know what you mean about tuning for strength and durability cause thats what i shoot for. i only use alloy on the needed places! i try to save as much weight as possiable too!

i just got my half 8 baout 3 weeks ago (2 days b4 katrina, thanks adam) and when we were evacuating i packed my half 8 and rc18t. my parents told me i wasnt going to bring them but i snuck them ! i wasnt letting them get left behind.

i dont have much on it right now, b/c they wont let me use the cc to order parts. i have to find places to get the parts i need with moneyorders, so the parents dont know. i sent out one money order today for my AON ;).

Hey Rob :)

Sorry to hear that you got to "know" Katrina. Hope you and yours are ok. VERY cool you got to sneak out your rides. If I had a lot of $$ or parts I'd send you some, but I have to cash out for this mini-stuff myself, so that's a bit difficult. At least I can point you in the right direction to what to get - so that you don't have to sneak out a order just to be dissepointed about the product when it arrives :p

thedirt
09-22-2005, 03:44 AM
Hey Ronny,

Have you tried the GPM oil filled shocks? I dont know if there same/close/different from the 3 racing ones. I haven't seen the 3 racing ones as my LHS doesn't stock them. Also would you conclude that the Kyosho ones are still the best?


Thanks

Ronny
09-22-2005, 03:46 AM
also, just wondering if you noticed that the rear shocks shafts on the 3 racing shocks are the same length as the fronts!! making the rear just like a set of fronts. have you found a shock shaft that will take up the rest of the shock. some type of 10th scale shaft? it looks like a 10th scale front shock shaft will be long enought and the right size? it only needs to be 5 mm's longer to work. but im just wondering if someone has found a shaft that will work ?

Rob,

I used the plastic shock-ends that was on the stock ding-dong shock, and the lower cup for the spring. This made the shock a lot better. I also did the most important thing of all to make them super-smooth,. you have to take the 2 hole shock pistons that are included with the 3R shocks, drill the holes up to 1.3.mm. then use 300-350.cp oil, OR 25-30.wt. which are about the same viscosity.

Do this, and your shocks are sweet :D

Ronny
09-22-2005, 03:56 AM
Hey Ronny,

Have you tried the GPM oil filled shocks? I dont know if there same/close/different from the 3 racing ones. I haven't seen the 3 racing ones as my LHS doesn't stock them. Also would you conclude that the Kyosho ones are still the best?


Thanks

Hey :)

I haven't tried the GPM shock,. I have tried the 3Racing's & Kyosho's.
The 3R's will be good after some fiddeling around, but the Kyosho's ARE
the king of shocks, and have been for many years in different classes. If you look, you'll see that the K-shock are almost identical to the shocks that are used on the V-one-R series, so it speaks for itself more or less ;)

So, conclution, if you want no trouble or fiddling around, go for the K-shocks - and get the K-spring set also. The Red or the Blues are very very good my friend. You like to fiddel around a little - and at the same time save some $, go for the 3Racing ones, and follow the tips I have included on this page.

I'd like to hear what you eventually went for when you have desided, and tried them ;)

Hope this helps

BiGRoB21
09-22-2005, 03:59 AM
yah, i have all that stuff done, i just want to get the maxium travel out of them. incase u have to use it, and it will be a little more forgiving when i am not able to get to a track and i bash it in the lawn over some 20 foot gaps lol. need as much suspension travel i can get.

Ronny
09-22-2005, 04:01 AM
yah, i have all that stuff done, i just want to get the maxium travel out of them. incase u have to use it, and it will be a little more forgiving when i am not able to get to a track and i bash it in the lawn over some 20 foot gaps lol. need as much suspension travel i can get.


Hehe, you wicked little dare-devil :D :eek: :D

BiGRoB21
09-22-2005, 04:10 AM
i havent gone further than 20 feet with the half 8 yet but the furthest i have sent my rc18t was 40 feet.

mat3833
09-23-2005, 05:04 PM
ok im getting a mini inferno w/ an intelect 1200 pack, and oil shocks (not shure which, i think 3racing). i have a mamba 5400 that i will be putting in the mini inferno until i can get an aon. what should i gear it? and what should my upgrade path be? i want to have a great bash buggy but if i go the track i want to pull the 1/8. ronny i kno you are the god of h8ism (you 2 bit) so if you could help me out i would realy apreciate it. oh and im 15 so i have like no money so keep the un nessecary stuff to a minimum. thanks in advance.

Matt

Ronny
09-23-2005, 08:45 PM
ok im getting a mini inferno w/ an intelect 1200 pack, and oil shocks (not shure which, i think 3racing). i have a mamba 5400 that i will be putting in the mini inferno until i can get an aon. what should i gear it? and what should my upgrade path be? i want to have a great bash buggy but if i go the track i want to pull the 1/8. ronny i kno you are the god of h8ism (you 2 bit) so if you could help me out i would realy apreciate it. oh and im 15 so i have like no money so keep the un nessecary stuff to a minimum. thanks in advance.

Matt

Hey Matt :)

OF COURSE I'LL HELP YOU ;)

First off, The Mamba motor you should gear with a 10 tooth pinion, and I would advise the pinions that are for the Assosciated RC18T truck.
And you MUST have a heatsink on it!! Mucho importante, he he..

For upgrades that are in my opinion, as that's what you are asking for, is - and since I personally love 3Racing's products, that's what I will advice you.. And this is nothing negative against other brands, it's just the simple fact that the products I recommend now, is what I have tried, and what I am 100% happy with.. I needed to get that said, hehe ;)

Here's what I think is critical to have on your new ride, money taken account for - but it's all nessesery unfortunatly. (You had shocks, if 3Racing, modify)!

Yeah Blue-sealed ball-bearings (8)
3Racing alum.motor-mount
3Racing Front & rear alum.towers
3Racing alum. Rear hubs
3Racing alum. steering-knuckles

This would set you back about 60$.

IF you can afford, I strongly recommend 3Racing's Front & rear driveshafts as the "last" option, as these drastically free up the drive-drain. These would cost about 11$ a pair, so 22$ approxamatly!

Hope this helps you out ;)

Ronny

mat3833
09-23-2005, 08:50 PM
you are awesome ronny! oh and i was wondering about 1/10 adaptors. i kno CAW makes some but they only work with the caw axles right? yea stands for yeah racing right? and one more thing do you have a good settup for the h8? i will be on a track that is for brushless minis and has some awesome jumps! thanks again!

Matt

Ronny
09-23-2005, 08:54 PM
you are awesome ronny! oh and i was wondering about 1/10 adaptors. i kno CAW makes some but they only work with the caw axles right? yea stands for yeah racing right? and one more thing do you have a good settup for the h8? i will be on a track that is for brushless minis and has some awesome jumps! thanks again!

Matt

Hehe, thanks Matt :o

I'm going to put out a couple of setup here! But I heard some promesing about a BLANK setup-sheet from Kyosho :confused: When this comes out, my setup's are there within 24 hours ;)

Ronny

mat3833
09-23-2005, 08:57 PM
thanks i hope they get one soon, i need a settup! :) hopefully i can raise some money, any donations to the make matts h8 wicked fund!! lol but i will have 2 get bearings minimum, i had a set melt to the rims in my mini t! it was horrible. where should i get my bearings from? i want quality not cheapo parts, so i will pay more.

Matt

mat3833
09-23-2005, 08:58 PM
oh and will xray pinions work w/ the mamba? i got the 5400 so it has more torque.

Matt

Ronny
09-23-2005, 11:46 PM
oh and will xray pinions work w/ the mamba? i got the 5400 so it has more torque.

Matt

I don't know :confused:

mat3833
09-23-2005, 11:47 PM
lol i didnt either... o well. thanks for all the help.

Matt

mat3833
09-25-2005, 12:44 AM
hey ronny, what shock mod are you talking about? :confused: im not shure what one you are talking about. i do have the 3racing shox so i will do the mod you are talking about (if i can figure it out). oh and what parts should i get for racing? i will have the parts you listed in about a month, but i want to have a list of every mod nessecary. thanks again and you are the king! :D

Matt

BitHed
09-25-2005, 12:56 AM
...mat...Ronny mods are to make the 3RACING shox better...drill the holes in the pistons and add the stock LYOSHO lower ball end to the 3RACING shafts...easy :D

...Also Ronny is working on a full set up list / display etc for all of us so that should be done soon...Give a little while to get that all together and then all will be revealed to the world :D

mat3833
09-25-2005, 01:07 AM
YAY lets have a party!!! ronny! ronny! lol im glad i found this forum! one18th pple are mean :mad:. they think noobs should know stuff, im a noob and you guys have tolerated my questions alot, and you even gave great answers :D . im glad you started this forum bit(u started it right? :rolleyes: ) keep up the good work bit and ronny. and as soon as get my H8 i will give a review of how the mamba5400 works compared to the 6800 or 8000. until my next post! away!! :p

Matt

BitHed
09-25-2005, 01:16 AM
...i didnt start it but i have been here from since before it was online...i run it...I dont own it or make any money from the sales at h8.com...I just walk around with a knotted hanky on my head making sure that the locals dont get TOO rowdy...lol...

mat3833
09-25-2005, 01:18 AM
lol you are a good groundskeeper bit. have you had any luck with the ball diffs from 3racing?

Matt

BitHed
09-25-2005, 01:25 AM
...nothing yet but i still have some things to try with the boys at 3RACING ;)

Ronny
09-25-2005, 05:36 PM
hey ronny, what shock mod are you talking about? im not shure what one you are talking about. i do have the 3racing shox so i will do the mod you are talking about (if i can figure it out). oh and what parts should i get for racing? i will have the parts you listed in about a month, but i want to have a list of every mod nessecary. thanks again and you are the king! :D

Matt

Matt my boy :)

Thanks, and Bit, thanks for covering my butt :D

Matt, do this. Go to a hobby-shop or a good hardware store and buy a drill-bit of the size 1.3.millimeters. Drill the 2 hole pistons both F&R up with your new drill-bit. Then fill them with 30-35 wt oil, OR 350-400.cp oil. These are about the same as 30-35.wt oil. After this, install the plastic shock-ends that are currently on your stock plastic shocks. Use these, and the spring-cup holder that sits on it to hold the spring in place.

Also measure that your shocks are equal lenght Left to Right, or your car will behave as you would running 100.feet distance with one cowboy-booth on one foot and a sandal on the other.

And Matt, WE will take care of you! ;)

Ronny

mat3833
09-25-2005, 11:30 PM
And Matt, WE will take care of you! awww i'm touched!! :D ;) . i have the drill bit so it should be easy to do. and do you reccomend any certain kind of shock oil? like losi or associated? i figure they are the same but what you recomend i will get. i will also be running your settup in my mini.
oh and have any of you tried locking the center diff? like puting shoe goo in it. i thought that would be good and there would be no more adding grease every run. it is just a thought.

Matt

Ronny
09-25-2005, 11:46 PM
And Matt, WE will take care of you! awww i'm touched!! :D ;) . i have the drill bit so it should be easy to do. and do you reccomend any certain kind of shock oil? like losi or associated? i figure they are the same but what you recomend i will get. i will also be running your settup in my mini.
oh and have any of you tried locking the center diff? like puting shoe goo in it. i thought that would be good and there would be no more adding grease every run. it is just a thought.

Matt

Hehe :p

Well, I would have chosen Associated oil, as for me they are more temprature-stabile. Regarding the locked centre-diff, yeah I have locked my Atomic-diff completly. Awesome accleration, but also awesome accleration on wear on the stock front and rear diffs :( This of course has nothing to do with the Atomic-diff itself, as that has worked properly after removing one O-ring. I'll do a diff talk soon here, as I suspect that ball-diffs combined with brushless systems don't work too well.. I need to test more stuff before confirming that, but for now, and from what I have been testing, you NEED to lock ball-diffs completly - or they will slip under accleration.

mat3833
09-26-2005, 12:03 AM
associated it will be. i will be running the stock diffs and stock motor until i can get some beef. i dont want to break something and not be able to drive!! i only have a 8cell batt and shox. how easy is it to lock the stock diff? i want to have no diff action in the center until i get the brushless beast in it :D :p . when i get the parts you recomended i will get more, but what should i get? if you dont mind i would like another list for racing purposes( i sound so rich or stuck up!! :p ). as i said last time only what i need to make a good durable racer, no $1200 h8 4 me, well... ;) thanks again!!

Matt

Ronny
09-26-2005, 02:59 AM
You are welcome Matt :)

Try locking your diff with Shoo-goo, as you yourself suggested :)

I JUST sent BitHed the setup sheet you guys wanted. It's in crule writing, but you wanted it fast, so :o Now it's up to Bit, pheww, what a relife :D

Ronny

mat3833
09-26-2005, 05:53 PM
settups!! yay :) now my mini will handel like my old ofna and not like some mini! ok when i get the H8 i will lock the diff and mod the shocks and do everything you have done (ecept spend the money). if you dont mind i would like another parts list for racing purposes ( when i get the money). as i said last time only what i need to make a good durable racer.

Matt

BitHed
09-27-2005, 06:28 AM
...im working on it fellas...Just came back from Mt. Fuji and going through the mail system that is Panictoys and I have LOTS to do...BTW thank you all for your orders...I will be in touch ASAP...but on with the big show...lets see what we have here then :cool:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v258/bithed/ronnyssetup.jpg

BLACKHAWK444
09-27-2005, 10:57 AM
Cool....:)

Ronny
09-27-2005, 01:44 PM
Cool....:)

Thanks.. Sorry for the crule writing, I DO write nicer then this when it's not 04.30 in the morning :o

Ronny
09-27-2005, 04:49 PM
It's a pleasure ;)

But guys, I would like in return that you give me a feed-back here after testing it, ok. And if there something you'd like different, post that question at the same time - and I'll try to sort it out for you :)

Matt! GOOD post :D This is exactly how it works, share info :) Boca bearings are supposed to THE one! I haven't tested them in any vehical due to the steep price-tag. But I woulden't mind trying them.

Ronny
09-28-2005, 01:14 AM
Guys,

as my pimp-ride gets it upgrade this week, I'll post some pic, ok :p
Matt, I forgot to respond to your question about the Alum.arms.. If it's not broken, don't fix it ;) as with my ride and parts, I actually haven't chose anything for the bling-bling fact - they all serve a purpose, as the stock parts diden't hold up, are too hevy or some other logical reason.

One or two things IS bling-bling, but hey - I'm a guy :D

BLACKHAWK444
09-28-2005, 01:16 AM
Ronny do you think you could list everything thats aftermarket on your H8? It would be greatly appreciated :)

mat3833
09-28-2005, 01:27 AM
ok ronny i wont replace it. i dont have the money now n e way! bit so graciously made a new thread about the bearings so if you want them go the Boca Bearings thread ( hmmmm i wonder whats in that thread :D ) i am waiting for your pics ronny!! grrr hurry up! LOL

Matt

Ronny
09-28-2005, 02:57 AM
Ronny do you think you could list everything thats aftermarket on your H8? It would be greatly appreciated :)

Hawk :) Look at the bottom of the setup sheet ;) There will be additions later this week as already mentioned :D I will post some pictures when it's all mounted, and WITH a further list of products!

Ronny

Ronny
09-28-2005, 08:53 AM
Why is the veiwe-count always disappering when it gets many?? Like now, it was 1050 veiwe, suddenly they all got counted on "Boca bearings" instead? And earlier, it went from like 2-3000 to 0. Why, coz it kinda annoying :(

BitHed
09-28-2005, 08:57 AM
...Sorry...It happened when i chopped out the bearing pieces and put them in another thread :( But we all KNOW that you have THE BEST numbers on site..lol...I will TRY and make it up to you with something Ronny ;) lol...

Ronny
09-28-2005, 09:04 AM
...Sorry...It happened when i chopped out the bearing pieces and put them in another thread :( But we all KNOW that you have THE BEST numbers on site..lol...I will TRY and make it up to you with something Ronny ;) lol...


Ha ha ha ha, blææææ.. I diden' mean it like that, and you know it :o
I've just like invited a couple of persons to visit the site, so that's why I nagged :o

mat3833
09-28-2005, 03:50 PM
ha! its because of me ronny, i will take full blame. i asked bit to make a new forum about the boca bearings.

Matt

UNITED_RC
09-29-2005, 02:55 AM
ELECTRONICS:

Mamba 25 Esc / Timing:Normal
Mini AC motor / 16.T pinion
Hitec 81MG servo / 0.9.sec - 3.5.kg
Futaba 40FM rec. / Futaba 3PK Radio
United RC 1660 7.4 or 11.1v lipo (what we would like to see in the buggy!)
----------------------------------------


SETUP: (Car weight = 884.grams RTR)
We could shave a significant amount of grams off that RTR weight, assuming you are counting the 8-cell pack in there, by using the lipo mentioned above!

:)

Welcome Ronny!!!!

URC

Ronny
09-29-2005, 03:10 AM
----------------------------------------


We could shave a significant amount of grams off that RTR weight, assuming you are counting the 8-cell pack in there, by using the lipo mentioned above!

:)

Welcome Ronny!!!!

URC

Hi :)

Yeah, we should definatly do something about that weight for sure. These baby's should take care of that I assume ;) My thoughts are that weight-savings could benfit the car in a lot of ways. I'd like to talk further with you about some thoughts. You can PM me here or get my email from Bit if you want to :)

Ronny

mat3833
09-29-2005, 04:29 PM
i think the lipos would upset the balance of the car, like front to back. you would have to add weight to the front. but you will still be lower than you were.

Matt

Smoothound
09-29-2005, 04:37 PM
I dunno I doubt there is a huge difference in weight between 8 NiMh and the United RC 3s2p saddle packs if anything the Lipos would be lighter :confused:

mat3833
09-29-2005, 04:43 PM
yea thats what i mean, i think his car is set up to run w/ the 8cell weight. going lighter might make the car react different. i may be wrong but i think i understand what your saying.

Matt

Ronny
09-30-2005, 01:53 AM
Hi guys :)

There will be some very interesting battery-testing done in a short while ;)
I will then be able to give you a pointer on what to get for your ride & wallet.
These testings will include 8 cell testing of various pack type, quality/price, to see if you need to spend that little extra or not.

There will also be tested lipo's at the same time, probably 2 & 3 cells (7.4.V versus 11.1.V). That way we will know HOW much difference it does with that extra cell, and if the drive-train holds up to that much raw power - not even mentioning the fact, can we drive it, or will it just be plain too wicked for TRACK racing. Speed-runs & speed-addicts (no pun intended) will probably have no other choise thinking power/weight combo :D

And yes, of course I then will test Nimh versus Lipo's, both in share power -
and what will be needed (IF any) to be done to the car regarding weight-balancing due to the lighter Lipo cells. One thing that is absolutly for sure is that your car WILL acclerate quicker, stop faster - and this JUST because of the weight-differance the Lipo cells have. If you combine this fact together with share possebility that they also gives more power in form of amps when the motor draws at it's most, yep - then it's getting very interesting for sure.

I am keen on testing the different packs on a brushed combo for you also, so if anyone has a good suggestion for a brushed motor, I will try to get hold of it and do that test also, as I know that not everyone wants/has a brushless setup.

I firmly belive that the H8 can be quite fast and with good powerband using a brushed motor, but it's hard to get the torqe you need out of it if the battery's can't deliver sort of speak. This is of course even more true on BL motors, but don't skimp on the juice, coz that's where the power comes from!

More to come on this later on.

Also, I would like to thank Bit for all he does for us, I think he bends his back for many of us, and for that, I applaud you brother, your the man of men ;)

I think there will be a lot of cool things to tell & lear about the H8 in the near future/months - and if we all chip in and help each other out, the H8 will be a offisiel race class for sure. We hope & pray..

BiGRoB21
09-30-2005, 02:08 AM
ronny- i got my AON4900 motor today in the mail and installed it. runs way cooler than the 6800 with the same speed the 6800had when i had it on the 16t pinion for 1 run. (i know i didnt have the right rench to change it b/c of the hurricane) but now from the aon im getting more punch and more speed with the 12t pinion.

i also did a little tuning to my shocks. its not the same things you did, but i like it way better than how it was b4. i will have to pots up what i did another day when i have more time.

Ronny
09-30-2005, 02:20 AM
Rob :)

VERY good news to hear :D I'm very happy you are pleased with the AON motor, as am I for sure. Also, cool that you did some modds to the shocks - and even cooler that you share. Way to go Rob, keep up the good work ;)

JuJuB
10-01-2005, 02:49 AM
wat duz "STD" mean in the chart

BitHed
10-01-2005, 02:54 AM
...standard / stock...

JuJuB
10-01-2005, 03:01 AM
Ohhhhhhhhh!!!

JuJuB
10-01-2005, 03:04 AM
Matt my boy :)

Thanks, and Bit, thanks for covering my butt :D

Matt, do this. Go to a hobby-shop or a good hardware store and buy a drill-bit of the size 1.3.millimeters. Drill the 2 hole pistons both F&R up with your new drill-bit. Then fill them with 30-35 wt oil, OR 350-400.cp oil. These are about the same as 30-35.wt oil. After this, install the plastic shock-ends that are currently on your stock plastic shocks. Use these, and the spring-cup holder that sits on it to hold the spring in place.

Also measure that your shocks are equal lenght Left to Right, or your car will behave as you would running 100.feet distance with one cowboy-booth on one foot and a sandal on the other.

And Matt, WE will take care of you! ;)

Ronny


How many hole do i put n it? I know im soundin dumb but.......hell I wanna know!

UNITED_RC
10-01-2005, 01:08 PM
I dunno I doubt there is a huge difference in weight between 8 NiMh and the United RC 3s2p saddle packs if anything the Lipos would be lighter :confused:

There is a significant difference between the two packs.

8-cell pack = approx 5.6oz

3cell 1660mah lipo = approx 4.0oz

difference of 1.6oz.
Weight is only based on cells, excludes wrap, wire, etc. All exceptions are consistant in each pack.

URC

Ronny
10-01-2005, 07:28 PM
How many hole do i put n it? I know im soundin dumb but.......hell I wanna know!

Hey, your not sounding stupid for not knowing something my friend, it's called lack of experiance on THAT field ;)
Anyway, you should use the STOCK 2 hole pistons that came with the shocks. Drill those up to 1.3.mm,. both holes in each of the 4 pistons!

Your gonna feel a BIG change for sure on bumpy sections.

Ronny
10-01-2005, 07:42 PM
There is a significant difference between the two packs.

8-cell pack = approx 5.6oz

3cell 1660mah lipo = approx 4.0oz

difference of 1.6oz.
Weight is only based on cells, excludes wrap, wire, etc. All exceptions are consistant in each pack.

URC


Good call URC. Thanks for posting that :) And for those of you who don't measuer in oz, but grams - here's the nr's for us:

8 cell pack : 56.oz = 158.grams

3 cell lipo 1660: 4.0.oz = 113.grams

Difference: 1.6.oz = 45.grams

Which is A LOT, and take into account that it's not only lighter by 45 grams, but it also gives out 1.5.Volts more power then the 8 cell pack :D

Holy smokes, this is some seriouse, seriouse wicked numbers to think about. It will make the H8 one mean machine! :eek: !

mat3833
10-01-2005, 10:46 PM
i think the 1.5v will realy wake the inferno up!! lighter and more power :cool: i like!!

Matt

UNITED_RC
10-02-2005, 01:35 AM
Good call URC. Thanks for posting that :) And for those of you who don't measuer in oz, but grams - here's the nr's for us:

8 cell pack : 56.oz = 158.grams

3 cell lipo 1660: 4.0.oz = 113.grams

Difference: 1.6.oz = 45.grams

Which is A LOT, and take into account that it's not only lighter by 45 grams, but it also gives out 1.5.Volts more power then the 8 cell pack :D

Holy smokes, this is some seriouse, seriouse wicked numbers to think about. It will make the H8 one mean machine! :eek: !

Thank you Ronny! People have to take in consideration these numbers as well as, which may be more imporant, look at the relationship between volts per gram/oz, when comparing NiMH to Lipo.

Thanks for confirm/stating that 45grams is a big difference in these little cars. In the normal world, 45grams does not sound like a lot...but it is a huge difference in the 18th scale market!

URC

JuJuB
10-02-2005, 02:49 AM
Now I mite consider saving up for a lipo. Thanks for clearing that up for me Ronny!

Ronny
10-02-2005, 09:15 PM
Thank you Ronny! People have to take in consideration these numbers as well as, which may be more imporant, look at the relationship between volts per gram/oz, when comparing NiMH to Lipo.

Thanks for confirm/stating that 45grams is a big difference in these little cars. In the normal world, 45grams does not sound like a lot...but it is a huge difference in the 18th scale market!

URC

You are welcome URC :)

To really understand HOW much weight-saving 45.grams/1.6.oz is, take a look here please, and you will understand what significant difference this will do in increased acceleration, speed & not to mention RUNTIME!!

Weigh-savings you will experiance is this:

You will save on a 3 cell/11.1.volt Lipo-pack: 45.g / 1.6.oz, ok.

A Hitec 85MG weighs: 21.9.g / 0.77.oz
A Mamba 25 Esc weighs 24.5.g / 0.90.oz
-----------------------------------------
These 2 components weighs:46.4.g / 1.63.oz

Get the picture ;) In other words, the weight-savings you get with the Lipo
is the same weight as your servo + Mamba esc.. So, this will mean that your car is ready to go "without" servo&esc, - thing how much faster your car would accelerate without having to drag along those 2 components. Not to mention top-speed & runtime again..

Ronny
10-02-2005, 09:16 PM
Now I mite consider saving up for a lipo. Thanks for clearing that up for me Ronny!

Anytime ;)

BiGRoB21
10-04-2005, 06:54 PM
i think i have a center diff tip that will make the car more balanced to the rear and front wheels, instead of sending most of the power to the fronts.
here is what i going to do. take a peice of lexan and cut it to the same size as one of the bearings that is in the center diff. (same one that the drive cup rides on) then put that in the diff houseing then put the bearing in.
it should make the diff a little tighter. so i think this will be a solution instad of useing greese.

i am acually doing this to my car now, i will let yall know how it turns out

EphiDelt490
10-04-2005, 08:52 PM
Ronny, did you run into any problems with your Atomic diff after you took that little bit off the gear? I had to do that to mine as well, shaved about .05mm or less off it to get it to mesh correctly, but it still didn't feel as good as my stock setup. I think I'm going to sell it and wait for the sealed Kyosho oil diffs to come out, hell if they don't seal, I will MAKE them seal ;). Oh and thanks a bunch for that Mugen setup Ronny, it's dialed man.

JuJuB
10-05-2005, 02:46 AM
i think i have a center diff tip that will make the car more balanced to the rear and front wheels, instead of sending most of the power to the fronts.
here is what i going to do. take a peice of lexan and cut it to the same size as one of the bearings that is in the center diff. (same one that the drive cup rides on) then put that in the diff houseing then put the bearing in.
it should make the diff a little tighter. so i think this will be a solution instad of useing greese.

i am acually doing this to my car now, i will let yall know how it turns out

Wat cener diff tip?? :confused: I must hav missed something

BiGRoB21
10-05-2005, 04:34 AM
i came up with a idea today. that i thouhght would help distrubite the power to the front and rear wheels evenly.

Ronny
10-06-2005, 10:19 PM
i think i have a center diff tip that will make the car more balanced to the rear and front wheels, instead of sending most of the power to the fronts.
here is what i going to do. take a peice of lexan and cut it to the same size as one of the bearings that is in the center diff. (same one that the drive cup rides on) then put that in the diff houseing then put the bearing in.
it should make the diff a little tighter. so i think this will be a solution instad of useing greese.

i am acually doing this to my car now, i will let yall know how it turns out

Hi Rob :) Bro, I don't think it's gonna work the way you hope, I might be wrong, but :confused:

Ronny
10-06-2005, 10:25 PM
Ronny, did you run into any problems with your Atomic diff after you took that little bit off the gear? I had to do that to mine as well, shaved about .05mm or less off it to get it to mesh correctly, but it still didn't feel as good as my stock setup. I think I'm going to sell it and wait for the sealed Kyosho oil diffs to come out, hell if they don't seal, I will MAKE them seal ;). Oh and thanks a bunch for that Mugen setup Ronny, it's dialed man.

Hey man :)

Nice to hear the Mugen setup worked well for your car. It should, as it's my Nats setup ;)

Regarding the Atomic center-diff, - it actually only "worked" when fully locked. The prob then was that the F & R gears got a REALLY hard time.
When loosened to give diff-action, it slipped :( I have taken it out now, and are currently using the stock center-diff with Mugen Super Grease on it. WAY better!! We will have to see how the 3Racing ones work later on, and also the oil-filled ones asap.

I don't recommend the Atomic center-diff IF you use a powerful BrushLess motor & 8 cell as I use. For "normal" running it's probably SUPER-GOOD..

BitHed
10-06-2005, 10:58 PM
...i second Ronny's comments on this...the ATOMIC center isnt doing what it SHOULD be doing in brushless drivetrain...front and rear done up tightly are working great for me though...

BiGRoB21
10-06-2005, 11:07 PM
ronny. it accually worked out pretty well for me. what i did was took one of the little battery cap things that protect the positive side of the battery. and trimed it down to the size of the bearing. so when it was all put together it made the mesh on the center diff a little tighter so it dosent send all the power to the front wheels.

Ronny
10-07-2005, 01:40 AM
ronny. it accually worked out pretty well for me. what i did was took one of the little battery cap things that protect the positive side of the battery. and trimed it down to the size of the bearing. so when it was all put together it made the mesh on the center diff a little tighter so it dosent send all the power to the front wheels.

Hey Rob :) Cool.. I like that you try stuff, sometimes it work, sometimes it don't. Yours did, well done :D

BitHed
10-07-2005, 02:46 AM
...Neccessity is the mother of invention ;) Rob good on you for going what with works...It might not be new and it may not be hi-tech but HELL if it works we appreciate you sharing it ;)

BiGRoB21
10-07-2005, 04:00 AM
yah i have all day long every day to mess with my rc's right now b/c i lost my 2 jobs and am sitting the semester out of school because the hurricane. soo i have the time to get stuff done. my mini inferno is down right now. i stripped the spurr forgetting to tighten the motor all the way and the mesh slipped off. so that is down for now and in peices. im going to be looking into some other stuff that i can do to try and make stuff better if my little mind can find anyother things to piddle with.

but one thing i have been trying to do is design a onroad car based off the rc18t chassis. i have all the designs down, i just need materials and tooling to make it work.

EphiDelt490
10-07-2005, 03:27 PM
Hey man :)

Nice to hear the Mugen setup worked well for your car. It should, as it's my Nats setup ;)

Regarding the Atomic center-diff, - it actually only "worked" when fully locked. The prob then was that the F & R gears got a REALLY hard time.
When loosened to give diff-action, it slipped :( I have taken it out now, and are currently using the stock center-diff with Mugen Super Grease on it. WAY better!! We will have to see how the 3Racing ones work later on, and also the oil-filled ones asap.

I don't recommend the Atomic center-diff IF you use a powerful BrushLess motor & 8 cell as I use. For "normal" running it's probably SUPER-GOOD..
Thanks Ronny, that's what I ran into as well. Hopefully the oil-filled diffs will be the answer to all of our diff problems :cool: .

Ronny
10-08-2005, 04:16 PM
Thanks Ronny, that's what I ran into as well. Hopefully the oil-filled diffs will be the answer to all of our diff problems :cool: .

You are soo welcome :)

I think I can PROMISE that all our diff problems will be gone when these baby's are released. AS LONG as the durability is good, and they stay sealed, our H8's will be SUPA-DIALED for sure :D

Ronny
10-08-2005, 05:08 PM
Hey guys :)

My car is so utterly, fantasticly, unbelivably dialed, fast, punchy & hardcore super tough now. I'm constantly building/improving my car, and soon (WHEN ready) I'll post some pictures, reports AND video of my H8 in action on both a off-road track, and a parking-lot/school-yard or whatever.

Except for A LOT of new fancy, working parts - I also "took it all out" today by getting the Futaba S9650 DIGITAL servo :o 4.5.kg/0.11 sec of MEGA-power. For those of you who don't know this, digital servos OUT-PERFORMS normal analog servos BY FAR. This because they get there signals & work them about 5 times faster & often then analog servos, AND best of all - they have a MUCH greater holding-power (due to the faster processing) then "normal" servos.
Holding-power is for example when going true a turn/sweeper, and the servo has to HOLD back for the forces it gets in the turn.
So imagen yourself if your servo can receive from the receiver - hold, hold, hold, hold, hold (5 times) versus a analog that get/receive Hold ONCE in the same amount of time it took the digital one to "get the message"..

You see? Hope so..

Important notice:
PLEASE please please understand that I am SO BLESSED to be in a position where I first of all have some great sponsors in general,. I work in Norway's biggest hobby-store chain, which also is one of my sponsors - and I have been doing R/C for 25 years now, which means I have gotten some good contacts that makes much of this possible to do . SO.. What I am saying is this,. to the younger readers, and those of you who by MISTAKE THINKS that ALL of the things I have put on MY car is nessessary to have a good, fast car. IT'S NOT!!!!!
What I am trying to tell you is that I would NOT have had the possebility to invest sooo much cash into my car, IF NOT it had for my rather fortunat position in the R/C community, ok. So DON'T go and spend ALL your cash on this just to FOR EXAMPLE have your car much like mine which have turned out quite expensive IF I had bought it ALL.

I would BUY a Hitec 81MG - as this servo is wicked fast, with 3.kg/0.9.sec, OR I would BUY a Hitec 85MG Mighty Micro, but I personally thinks it's too slow going true chicanes (right/left turns) with it's 0.14.sec transit time, but makes up for it with it's 3.5.kg.
I was GIVEN the Futaba servo, which I would NOT BUY due to the 3 times higher price-tag then the Hitec 81MG. I, as some of you know - race 1/8 OR normally, so I am from that department ADDICTED to the use of Futaba digital servos, and THAT is NOW my exuse for having it also in my H8 :o
Ooh, that was a cheep one, but what the heck :D

dark_wing
10-08-2005, 09:23 PM
Hello guys.
Please, BigRob, post up the tunning you did to your shocks. I'm taking ideas to do with my 3racing shocks.
Thanks for all your help

Ronny
10-08-2005, 10:48 PM
Hello guys.
Please, BigRob, post up the tunning you did to your shocks. I'm taking ideas to do with my 3racing shocks.
Thanks for all your help

Hey Wing-man :)

Here it is for you:

Go to a hobby-shop or a good hardware store and buy a drill-bit of the size 1.3.millimeters. Drill the 2 hole pistons both F&R up with your new drill-bit. Then fill them with 30-35 wt oil, OR 350-400.cp oil. These are about the same as 30-35.wt oil. After this, install the plastic shock-ends that are currently on your stock plastic shocks. Use these, and the spring-cup holder that sits on it to hold the spring in place.

Also measure that your shocks are equal lenght Left to Right, or your car will behave as you would running 100.feet distance with one cowboy-booth on one foot and a sandal on the other.

dark_wing
10-09-2005, 01:59 PM
Thanks for your reply Ronny, but I've seen your method already. I want the BigRob's method, only for knowing and comparing. If someone has proven both, I want to know wich one is better.