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thedirt
08-04-2005, 10:08 PM
What have you guys done to your H8? Things such as put grease on the diff gears, etc.

holy_inferno
08-04-2005, 10:20 PM
Things you do to YOUR Mini Inferno first should be to grease your diffs, install the 8 ball bearings into the hubs/knuckles, install oil shocks, and to buy a decent battery pack.
Things I'VE done to my Mini Inferno is all of the above, change to aluminum shock towers, change all my electronics, servo, receiver, and ESC, to accomodate my Mamba 6800 brushless motor. :D

thedirt
08-05-2005, 04:34 AM
What type of grease you put in the diff? Just normal black grease from Associated?

.5x8
08-05-2005, 04:38 AM
i use thick silicone grease

holy_inferno
08-05-2005, 04:41 AM
...About any Silicone Grease created for RC vehicles would work...Mugen Super Grease is sticky so that the grease won't fly off the gears, but may be too sticky, as it will cause drag if applied to the pinion-spur...
I use the Associated Stealth Diff Lube, if you wanted to know. :)

Sideshow
08-05-2005, 04:51 AM
Ive done plenty.


HS-81MG Servo
Hacker Brushless
Yeah Racing Bearings
3Racing CVD's
3Racing Alum F &R Towers
3Racing oil Filleds
Firioni Front and rear hub carriers
Relocated Front tourque rod to center diff brace
Front tourque rod upgraded to Kyosho MP 777 Special 1 steering link
Battery Door Ribbing dremeled off and drilled 3 semetrical holes in them
60/40 Shock oil
Associated Green Slime lube for diffs and ring/pinion
Servo mounted on the forward position on the mount, and linkage made straight
Servo top brace cut and drilled 1/16 holes.
Removed Cooling head and mount
Drilled rear brace
Painted Blue/Yellow body
Shaved Hubs and Steering blocks for LOTS more steering


and so on.

thedirt
08-05-2005, 05:09 AM
Sweet info, keep it coming.

Sideshow- And so on??? what else you got up your sleeve?

Also, what pninons you guys using (teeth and company)

Sideshow
08-06-2005, 02:49 AM
Oh lots


Deans Ultra Connectors
All wire is 16 gauge silicone wire
3Racing Alum Upper front arms
GS Racing Alum Antenna Mount (Great and flexes more to reduce broken tubes)
Cut my Associated titanium turnbuckles to use on the half 8

And more...


But to be honest...I got real bored and just did everything I could to it, and I go to drive it and the dang receiver has had enough (MP 777 use for 2 years and didnt use and foam in Rx box :o ) Much of this I did is not needed

But this thing ROCKS, I drove it for 4 packs so far. Not much :eek:


Oh. And Pinions I use a Kyosho one (#??) and a Orion 13T that needed a bigger hole drilled in it.

signats
08-07-2005, 04:25 AM
The original owner did this:

3racing: F&R cvds & shock towers, rear lower brace & hubs, titanium turnbuckles & torque rods, wheel bearings, kingpin pivots, motor mount, and CFfront brace.

He also installed Kyosho shocks all around and included 3 sets of United RC x42 gp1100 packs.


So far I have done the following:

Replaced most of the crappy self-tapping phillps head screws with high quality steel hex head screws.

Installed Losi shocks.

Converted to 1/10th scale wheels and tires using modified Trinity IBS wheel adapters. HPI and Associated rally tires, and a set of custom fitted Losi step-pin tires.

Center ball Diff (homebrew) ;) Mugen super grease in front diff, Losi white assembly grease in rear diff.

Removed the aluminum rear lower chassis brace and replaced it with the stock plastic brace.

Installed an additional front brace from the front bulkhead to the center bulkhead.

Installed a used set of TiNi coated shock shafts for the inner suspension pivots on the rear arms to reduce slop at the rear sus. pin holder.

Installed Sato aluminum steering knuckles and HD servo saver spring/nut.

Hobbico CS-35mg steering servo.

Pro-line body.

Mamba controller & sport motor (4200 Kv :D ) with a 14 tooth RC18t pinion.

Modified slipper clutch so it works properly by adding slipper pad material from a real slipper.

Replaced the rod ends on the upper suspension linkages with Associated lower shock mounts (for slop free durability).

Installed a 3racing Cf servo tray, simply to have the nice antenna mount that is included with it.

Novak XXl RX, and Airtronics M8 TX.

Most of this stuff is simply carried over from my other RC cars (wheels, tires, mamba, TX, RX....), I only had to buy the stuff that is specific to the H8 (servo brace, pro-line body, steering mods....) and some stuff is straight outta the o'le RC Boneyard (bracing, ball diff components, rear suspension pivots....).

The big stuff is done, the buggy is fast and really well sorted, but I intend to ditch the front aluminum shock tower (because of repeatedly bending it in big crashes), it will be replaced by either doubling up Cf towers or the stock plastic towers, if/when the Cf towers break, and continue to try and improve the durability of my center ball diff and also try to eliminate slop from the front kingpins as well.

http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery6824.htm

dway
08-07-2005, 12:21 PM
and also try to eliminate slop from the front kingpins as well.

I took Ronny's advice on this and purchased Kyosho's W0146 3.mm Flat-head Washers to use inplace of the king pins. They press tightly down into the caster block and eliminate all slop from the king pins area. You just need to be careful and not crank down on the screws or they will not pivot in the washers and you will lock up the knuckles. If you are using aluminum knuckles, just put a little thread lock in the knuckles and then put the screws in and adjust the tightness until there is no slop. Then set it aside until the thread lock cures. If you are using stock knuckles, just adjust the slop out and make sure the knuckles still pivot freely. Try it - you'll like it. :D

signats
08-07-2005, 01:03 PM
I took Ronny's advice on this and purchased Kyosho's W0146 3.mm Flat-head Washers to use inplace of the king pins. They press tightly down into the caster block and eliminate all slop from the king pins area. You just need to be careful and not crank down on the screws or they will not pivot in the washers and you will lock up the knuckles. If you are using aluminum knuckles, just put a little thread lock in the knuckles and then put the screws in and adjust the tightness until there is no slop. Then set it aside until the thread lock cures. If you are using stock knuckles, just adjust the slop out and make sure the knuckles still pivot freely. Try it - you'll like it. :D


Do these washers get used for top and bottom kingpins, or just the top?

dway
08-07-2005, 01:16 PM
Signats, they go on top and bottom. I also put a little dry graphite lube between the screw and the washer to help them pivot a little smoother. The washers come in packs of 10 or twelve, so you will have extra if you ever need them.

signats
08-07-2005, 01:22 PM
Thanks for the tip, dway! I'll have to give this a try :cool:

thedirt
08-08-2005, 10:02 PM
Great tips guys. My H8 is gonna be slop free, diff greased and all be for it even see's any dirt.

Thanks again.

thedirt
08-09-2005, 04:55 AM
What size are the bearings in the hubs? Going to have my H8 next week :D and I can hardly wait. Rigth off the hop im going to get add a Mamba 25-ESC, GH or AON 4900 brushless, Hitec 225MG or 81MG, Bearings, 8 cell pack. Adnd then when I make some more money I will get the Oil filled shocks.

RC_Guru
08-09-2005, 08:13 AM
The bearing is 4X8X3 mm, same size as Mini-T's :D

BLACKHAWK444
08-09-2005, 08:35 AM
Also instead of using a 81mg I think you should use a 85mg.

thedirt
08-09-2005, 05:17 PM
Hmm, now you got me thinking RC_Guru. Maybe I'll rob all of the wheel bearings from my Mini-T before I sell it :D

Blackhawk- What do you think is better, the HS-85 or the HS-225MG

newbie
08-19-2005, 02:06 AM
You guys have mentioned using silicone grease on the front/centre/rear diffs. But do you think it's alright to use ordinary lubricant oil/grease (thicker ones) that you can buy from an ordinary hardware store?