PDA

View Full Version : Many questions



Magnum P.I.
07-16-2005, 02:26 PM
The stock tires and wheels im going to upgrade. Will this rim (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHEP2&P=7) and this tire (http://www.modelrec.com/products/rcCarsBoats/product.asp) work together. What adaptor do i need to run them. i dont want to use the caw one because i will upgrade to 3racing swingshafts. I heard the trinity ones dont have much thread for the nut to bite on, how is this fixed?

Does anyone make there own battery. I was thinking of buying 16 gp1100 cells and makeing my own 8cell packs. My neighbor owns a hobby shop and is very skilled in every rc thing. Is it nessicary to shrinkrap the cells?

I want to get the mamba esc and aon 4900. What pinion should i use. I want fast and powerful for grass and dirt. With a 15 tooth pinion is it capible of doing 35mph+ without over heating?

I also will get the proline crowd pleazer. Whats a good brand of spary paint? I'm realy bad at coming up with painting ideas so is there an online templates for that sort of thing?

TiNTiN
07-16-2005, 02:44 PM
Shrinkwrap for the cells and wires is freakin' highly recommended!!!

Below is my story...

At the beginning I got my car with 3 packs of 8 cells battery. A while after I think the performance is not good, as the car is a bit heavy with original electronics( of coz the electronics is not good as well ) & 8 cells batteries.

For the above reason, I changed the electronics and installed a 300 sized motor but the esc can only accept up to 7.2V, so I decided to break the packs and form them into 4 packs of 6 cells.

After some soldering (I'm a newbie of soldering :p ) I got my first pack ready ( BTW it looks ugly ) , I got it charged and tested but the pack short itself by touching the 2 small packs together...............

Finally I got the shrinkwrap and made the rest ready and working...

BTW the shrinkwrap can make your wires of the packs tidy :)

Magnum P.I.
07-16-2005, 06:44 PM
What esc are you using. If its a 7 cell it can handle 8 gp1100 cells and you can use the stock motor with it and it will be mroe powerful.

R32dude
07-16-2005, 09:53 PM
if its an LRP I would be carful using 8 cells!!! I fried one!

Magnum P.I.
07-16-2005, 10:17 PM
Ok but any help on my other questions? bit, akura, anyone?

maxxenitout
07-17-2005, 01:58 AM
You can check out how I did a "quick fix" on my trinity adapters. Here's the link...
http://halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360&page=5&pp=10&highlight=adapters
Or you can try and make you adapters using the Hot Racing ones for the RC18t, Check out this link...
http://halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533&highlight=adapters
Read till the end...

RockDragon
07-17-2005, 01:58 AM
The stock tires and wheels im going to upgrade. ..................... What adaptor do i need to run them. i dont want to use the caw one because i will upgrade to 3racing swingshafts. I heard the trinity ones dont have much thread for the nut to bite on, how is this fixed?

..................?

I did some modify to those hex adapters for H8 is able to use 1/10 TC rims/rally tires. Go to my post #12 on this thread and you will see ...
New Wheel Adapters On Ebay... (http://www.halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533&page=2&pp=10)

maxxenitout
07-17-2005, 02:00 AM
Lol.. me and Rock posted at the same time..
To answer another question, I am by far no paint guru but I have used both the Pactra spray paints and the Tamiya paint with no problems.

plain_simple
07-19-2005, 06:34 PM
I use the trinity hex adapters for 1/10 wheels and it works great :)
About enamel paints if you are using an airbrush and compressor spray it at 20 to 25 psi or you will start to get weird spyderstrings because due to the cold produced by the pressure the paint will get solid in contact with the air, same goes to the Tamya paints... if you buy parma faskcolor or any other acrylic paint then you should spray it at 40 to 45 psi...
Hope you have fun painting.. i know i do :D

BitHed
07-19-2005, 10:01 PM
...TOKYO 7am...

...I use the BitHex mod with 1:10 adaptors made out of old stock H8 wheels...They are still working great...if there is no inset on your rim then you might want to turn your nuts around so the plastic thread goes on FIRST...Shout out to Akura for that one...

...I used LRP gear with 8 cells and it was fine...I also used stock gear and 18T stock gear all with no problems...weight wise YES i would make a 6-pack...

...RE: ShrinkWrap: I prefer electrical tape...It may look less professional but thats why you would buy UNITED RC packs in the first place ;) I have also had a pack short out and blow its load all over the kitchen counter...NOT the way to impress the wife :eek: Plus with tape you can get some novelty tape like skulls or flames or whatever and wrap that too...But YES!!! There must be SOMETHING that wraps / protects / condomizes...

...Paint ideas? You have got to be kidding me...The internet is a HUGE gallery of anything...Try any 'image' search, like on yahoo, and search for something like custom car, flames, kustom, pinstripe, buggy, KYOSHO etc etc...Personally i like PyroGraphix style of paintwork so his place would be worth a visit...

...The now world-famous AON 4900 wont overheat...I use a 12 and I am very happy with it...Do you want take off speed or HIGH speed? If you are running in grass ALOT then a BIGGER pinion; LESS take-off torque, would help your motor stop and start...But if you want to SHOOT out off the line from a stop; ie ZERO, then you would want a 12 or thereabouts...smalller than 12 and you might have mesh issues or whatever...But lower CAN be done of course...ok...time to fold the washing...

Hawk
07-19-2005, 11:32 PM
Wow Bit,
Internet Entrepreur, multi-lingual educator, master modifier of mini RC vechicles and
Domestic Goddess? Will wonders ever cease? :cool:

BitHed
07-19-2005, 11:35 PM
...i look DAMN good in a thong too :eek:

Hawk
07-19-2005, 11:37 PM
...i look DAMN good in a thong too


:eek: too much information :(

mOOsE
07-19-2005, 11:40 PM
...i look DAMN good in a thong too :eek:
theres an image I don't want to see

Hawk
07-19-2005, 11:48 PM
:D OMG I almost fell off my chair when I saw that mOOsE!!!! Thanks. :cool:

Magnum P.I.
07-20-2005, 12:03 AM
So without the thong hes naked. eww.

Hey dont you use polycarbanote paint on lexan instead of enamal?

Hammer
07-20-2005, 09:10 PM
Hey dont you use polycarbanote paint on lexan instead of enamal?Yes you definitely want to use polycarbonate paint on lexan. You should be able to find a pretty good selection of pactra polycarbonate paint in rattle cans and bottles at your LHS. Don’t forget to apply the paint to the inside inside of the body. ;)

I should receive my Crowd Pleazer body today! :D

Hawk
07-20-2005, 11:03 PM
Let me make a fine point here.

http://www.geplastics.com/resins/materials/lexan.html
With unmatched impact resistance, outstanding dimensional stability and crystal-clarity, LEXAN polycarbonate resin continues to be a polycarbonate leader. The product is an amorphous engineering thermoplastic that combines high levels of mechanical, optical, electrical and thermal properties. LEXAN resin provides designers with new opportunities for innovative, cost-effective products such as eyewear, compact discs, kitchen containers and business equipment.

Lexan is the trademarked name (GE) of lexan polycarbonate resin. So Lexan is a specific type of polycabonate, with specific properties. It is not a paint thought mostly any paint you can use on polycabonate would work on the lexan bodies from Proline for example.
I used a polycarbonate sheet for my setup board with a Hudy decal and setup parts. The same sheet material in Lexan was about 30% more expensive, I think it transmits light better (better crystalline structure) but has to the naked eye the same properties.

As for painting it, here is a good first article on how with some pretty effective techniques. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/rc_other/article/0,2033,DIY_14223_2275897,00.html

Proline says: - Use lexan compatible paint only (Recommend brands: Faskolor, Pactra, Tamiya, Alclad II)

Look for Lexan compatible on the label, usually a water based enamel or laytex will do , often these are generically labled acrylic. And enamel is a general term that refers to any paint that is not laquer! :cool:

Hammer
07-20-2005, 11:48 PM
Look for Lexan compatible on the label, usually a water based enamel or laytex will do , often these are generically labled acrylic. And enamel is a general term that refers to any paint that is not laquer! :cool:Actually, there are three basic types of paint, lacquer, enamel and acrylic.

lacquer is just that, you use lacquer thinner (very flammable stuff) for cleanup and thinning. Enamel is oil based therefore you use solvent (paint thinner) to cleanup and thin. Acrylic is water based so water for cleanup. There are some acrylic thinners used to thin acrylic paints Tamiya, for example, has an acrylic thinner for their line of acrylic paints.

Pactra polycarbonate paint for Lexan is lacquer based, as I believe all polycarbonate paints are.

Sorry to disagree Hawk, just wanted to get the correct information out there. ;)

Hawk
07-21-2005, 12:40 AM
Actually, there are three basic types of paint, lacquer, enamel and acrylic.

lacquer is just that, you use lacquer thinner (very flammable stuff) for cleanup and thinning. Enamel is oil based therefore you use solvent (paint thinner) to cleanup and thin. Acrylic is water based so water for cleanup. There are some acrylic thinners used to thin acrylic paints Tamiya, for example, has an acrylic thinner for their line of acrylic paints.

Pactra polycarbonate paint for Lexan is lacquer based, as I believe all polycarbonate paints are.

Sorry to disagree Hawk, just wanted to get the correct information out there. ;)

If you actually looked at the labels and did a little browsing on the net, you would indeed get the correct info out there.
I got the info about acrylic (water based paints) enamel and latex and the line about enamel being paint that is not lacquer from Testors Hobbyist Guide. http://www.testors.com/hobbyist_guides.asp in chapter 5 Understanding paint. You might want to take a look. I have examples of water based enamels from testors in my paint booth. :cool:
'Just the fax Ma'am'

Hammer
07-21-2005, 04:15 AM
If you actually looked at the labels and did a little browsing on the net, you would indeed get the correct info out there.
'Just the fax Ma'am'Hawk, first of all this isn’t personal, I didn’t have much time to post more earlier, my apologies if you didn’t understand.

I’m old school regarding paint! I’ve been in the military, construction and manufacturing industries for 30 years, you need to focus on the word basic when I describe types of paint. I guess I should have underlined it. Anyway my description of the basic types of paints: lacquer, enamel, and acrylic, stands. There are three BASIC types of paint, not two.

In the old days, lacquer and enamel paints were all we used. Latex products were pretty much worthless. Lacquer was used for its convenience, it dried very quickly between coats, but needs many coats for durability. Enamel was used because it was much more durable, only it took many hours, even days, between coats.

That being said, in the mid 1980’s the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) started putting restrictions on oil based paints because of supposed emissions during curing. At that time acrylic paint began to surface.

Fast forward to today. In order for paint companies to promote their new lines of acrylic products they chose to call them acrylic enamels in order to emphasize the durability of enamel in an acrylic paint. So now according to the paint companies we have only two types of paint: lacquer and enamel (oil based and water based).

There are still three types of paint! Lacquer, enamel and acrylic. Lacquer based, oil based and water based! The paint companies may market them as something different, don’t be confused.

Finally, you suggested "usually a water based enamel or laytex will do , often these are generically labled acrylic" paint for a Lexan body, which is not correct. Lacquer based polycarbonate paint is suitable for Lexan.