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MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 03:24 AM
I have been checking out the site, and think this is great. My brother in-law just got a RC18T and I want to make my H8 woop on him. I know this thing needs work out of the box but I also want to utilize this site and learn from you guys.

Mine should be here Wed, and I was wondering if there is a tutorial on what should be done first. I heard the diffs and slipper need work but, what is it exactly? Also what are the best mods to perform or hop ups to get ordered up asap?

We are building a track so this will be mostly a racing application, I am not into bashing much.


Thanks for the help...

.5x8
05-24-2005, 04:40 AM
what you need to do...since ur buidling a track..i suggest you get some oil filled shocks...bearings for the hubs....and if you wanna woop is arse....get a mamba 25 brushless esc with a aon 4900 or get the Competetion Mamba package...thats bound to woop ur bro. and for the slipper....theres some mod.i dont have my h8 yet...but from what i read..you tighten it all the way..but theres some mod to do to the slipper..im sure someone will tell you..i dont have my h8 yet so i havent done it. Good LUCK!!!! o by the way...you can get all the parts from the shop accept for the motor. uh....if you choose the mamba competition package...got to ebay to look for one, or look at www.castlecreations.com for more info. and for the batteries... go to www.unitedrc.com , click products, go to batteries, go to 8 cell nimh, and you should find a saddle pack that says "fits half eight" and get that one. its like 32 bucks and comes prebuilt and everything. if your going to get the competition x combo..which i dont really recommend because it looks like your a nooby so go ahead and get a aon 4900..but if ur short on cash, get a x-speed, a nice micro esc, and a good fm radio following with the hitec hs-81mg servo for good turning =]..i am sure other people will fill in the spots i forgot..like the slipper mod.

.5x8

mOOsE
05-24-2005, 06:11 AM
the slipper slips terribly because their is little friction to be created. To modify this, you can do one of many things: the easiest thing to do is buy the 3 racing slipper pads and simply install those. You could also take apart the slipper assembly and "rough up" the metal disks by sanding or cutting grooves with an exacto/knife. Another thing you can do is install an o-ring in the slipper assembly which also works to reduce the slipping effect.

BitHed
05-24-2005, 08:32 AM
...unpack it and run it stock...then take it inside and read through the manual...Then read through the manual...Have a lump of your favourite lube on hand, something reasonably heavy for the front and rear diffs...Have all your tools layed like you would for an 'operation'...And dont forget to scrub-up Dr. Motrain cos it aint gonna be pretty...

...I figure that if you are a more a 'racer' than a 'basher' then you can appreciate the need for an autopsy ;)

...You will be surprised at how heavy and slow it is out of the box...Do yourself a favour and use it like this first...Trust me...you wont like it one little bit...but you will get a concrete feel for what it SHOULD be doing...Its easier to fix it once you know what needs fixing...

...On your down time lube the front and rear diffs...maybe take some time to make sure that your diff cups are on straight and tightened...It may feel as though they will go better a little looser, not AS tight, but they DO actually like to be tight...Save fiddling with the center diff until you have LOTS of time to concentrate on it...Rush it and it wont work...You CAN lube the center diff but it tends to fly off and go down the front of your shirt...Now would be a good time to get rid of that white button down ;)

...DONT use the stock / supplied oil in your shox, go with something a little heavier, use your favourite brand and make sure you are slightly heavier in the front than the rear...DONT adjust any settings yet...it is surprisingly frisky on stock settings...once you are up and rolling and know how she likes it then you can join the upper ranks of H8 'fiddlers'...This all sounds weird i know but people like Moose and WhoMe, OneTime and Ronny ALL know the benefits of time and love spent on this machine...

BitHed
05-24-2005, 08:42 AM
..Read LOTS about the slipper and the various options...I run a brushless AON 4900 and my slipper is sealed with ZERO problems...thats my 2 cents on that...

...Stiffen your shock towers with alloy or carbon, choose your poison ;) I prefer alloy because i am a crappy driver...i KNOW I will snap / break carbon...But i put carbon pieces in NON-impact spots; hinge / shaft holders, front top plate...

...Your bearings might feel gluggy and slow...Clean them out with your favourite goo and re-lube them with your favourite stuff...Thats ALL the H8 bearings...6 diffs worth and 8, two in each wheel, that need to be done...

...now...isnt that feeling MUCH better than how it was stock? You HAVE to appreciate the changes for the H8 to perform for you...Again i know it sounds weird...

...your rims will crack on serious impacts but the buggers last forever with no REAL loss of performance...

...The screws in your knuckles are a different matter...TAPE THE BOTTOM OF YOUR KNUCKLES...You do NOT want to lose the funky washers they have used and that silver screw in the front bottom is worth its weight in gold...A piece of tape over the hole will keep your nuts, well screws, where you want them ;)

...you wont beat your brother out of the box but a couple of weeks of love and HE will want an H8 and the 18T will be gathering dust...Just take your time with the MinFerno and show it the love it deserves :cool:

...

OneTimeCRX
05-24-2005, 10:13 AM
The only advice I can give is... the H8 is a heavy car, so just T-bone your bro-in-law's car and everything should work out fine. :D That is, unless you rip off a steering knuckle or two. :eek:

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 01:43 PM
WOW, this is great. Thanks so much for taking the time to introduce me to this impressive machine. I will folow your steps and continue trying to contribute to this forum.




Couple questions:

What diff lube should be used in front and rear.

What weight of shock oil should I use, I have lots of Losi oil? (Why do you want to go heavier in the front?) Are there different pistons?

Is 3Racing a good company to buy from? Is there alloy shock towers and shocks worth getting?




Thanks again for the warm welcome.

BitHed
05-24-2005, 01:59 PM
...diff lube...ASSOCIATED is always a winner, i am not sure which one though, HPI does some great stuff; again not sure which one...Check with your LHS (local hobby store) ;) I am based in Japan and basically the whole industry 'breathes' TAMIYA...

...Do some research on the weights of your LOSI oils...another USA brand that i am not familiar with the details of...Heavier in the front and lisghter in the rear...A tech will have to answer that...Ask Moose, he's nerdy like that :p

...Oil shox come with two hole pistons and 3 hole pistons...two hole is slightly 'harder' (ie MORE damping ie stiffer) than 3 hole...I have been running 3 hole and am switching to 2 hole now that i am going much faster...but i HIGHLY recommend trying one then trying the other and finding what YOU like for YOUR car for YOUR surface...RC IS a science but ALL the playing fields are diffrent...there is no ONE right answer im afraid...

...try this too...ASSOCIATED 'Green Slime' on your O Rings when you assemble your oil shox...Keeps a little more air-tight, solving possible leaks, and keeps 'em slippery slidey :D

...3Racing parts are VERY good; quality, finish, materials and pricing make them very atttractive....PLUS they are really the ONLY company doing anything of any worth right now..I personally dont like ATOMIC, but thats just me...

...Other third-party makers DO exist but you wouldn't think so at the speed they are 'NOT' producing at :mad: Even KYOSHO is dragging their feet, but they do that by habit...

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 02:29 PM
Ok, cool are there different diff lube weights?.... so I am thinking of getting the 3Racing shock towers (alloy) but how are the CAW ones worth spending the money on?.

Should I get the the 3Racing alloy shocks or the Kyosho alloy shocks?

United RC battery packs... which one should I get 42s or 32s and why would one be better than the other.

Should I upgrade the motor to the x-speed (or a diff. motor) or is th stock motor with these batt. packs gonna be good enough to beat the RC18T 370 motor?


Any other upgrades I should be thinking about.

.5x8
05-24-2005, 02:55 PM
okay 1: from what i see around here in pictures.....about everyone that buys alloy towers use CAW towers...

2. umm....the difference in the 42s and 32s..lets see...im pretty sure that the 32s are 6 cell nimh..and the 42s 8 cell nimh..get the 42s if you can afford it.

3. what motor is ur brother running? stock am i correct? moose has a brushed motor for 10 dollars and he says it has a ton of torque..so ask moose. but x-speed is only a bit faster because its more 'tuned'

4. o yes...and other upgrades you should be thinking about is...probably a nice brushless system....get the aon 4900 motor with the mamba 25 esc...but that is only if you know you can handle the power. but if you just want to change toa x-speed motor. get a decent micro esc, a hitec hs-81mg micro servo, and a good FM radio system..if you can afford it. get something like a mx-3, jr , m8 if ur really rich...etc etc

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 03:09 PM
Thanks,

Yeah I see some using the CAW, but man they are way more money... wonder what makes them better than the cheaper 3racing towers?

I wasn't sure if there was a benifit of using a 7.2 over a 9.6 pack. Maybe decent power and good runtime? Doesn't the 9.6 give you more power but less run time? Do you have any of these packs?

So the x-speed is not really worth it? Basically if I dont want to get the BL System then dont upgrade the motor?

I guess I dont understand the difference between the motors, the RC18T has a 370 I assume that is a 300 size motor? What doe this H8 have in it?

Why is the BL the way to go? Where do you get it?

vindictor67
05-24-2005, 03:15 PM
Brushless IS the way to go. It turns the H8 into a fire-breathing BEAST! :D
Go Mamba www.castlecreations.com or AON www.aonelectric.com.

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 03:22 PM
which package do I want to look at? What fits the H8?

vindictor67
05-24-2005, 03:56 PM
Get the Mamba 25 ESC and the USB MambaLink cable. For the motor I'm using the Mamba 6800 Kv and it rocks, but does have some heat issues so get a heat sink. A lot of people are now using AON 4900 Thrust series and they say it rocks. The Mamba 25 ESC will work with both.

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 05:06 PM
So now the question is which brushless system to go for? Pros and Cons of either? I have heard more people mention the mamba system... what about this heat issue? How do you resolve it? Does a heat sink eliminate the problem? What heat sink do you get?



I think for right now I will start with some hop-ups and then look into a BL system later. Beef everything up before I go FASTER!

.5x8
05-24-2005, 10:57 PM
dont be beefing to fast..theres a weight issue with this car...so i would get he towers..shocks and stuff..but nothign else....just get the aon 4900 thrust series motor and a mamba 25 esc for the BL combo

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 11:41 PM
Na, nothin too crazy just figured on the shock towers and shocks to start. Probably the 3Racing stuff.

What if I dont go BL what would you do to get the most out of this beast?

.5x8
05-24-2005, 11:43 PM
like i said before...get a nice micro esc...and then...get the k4 motor from www.unitedrc.com

MOTRAIN
05-24-2005, 11:56 PM
The stock electronics sucks or what? Is it really a must have right off the bat?
Can't the stock electronics run the K4?

BitHed
05-25-2005, 12:52 AM
...K4 runs hotter than an Xspeed...I would go Xspeed...Xspeed and an 8cell pack...Nicely spicey :cool:

.5x8
05-25-2005, 12:57 AM
uh....i am not sure if the stock esc can handle teh k4..but if u want to keep all ur electronics for now..and get better ones later..just get a x-speed and nimh..and change the plugs to deans..that'll do ya good for a while

MOTRAIN
05-25-2005, 03:31 AM
Ok cool.. I think I will stick with the stock electronics for a little while then I think i will throw a JR310 reciever in it to use my Jr XS3 and upgrade the esc and servo all at once.

Is the x-speed noticibly faster? Or am I wasting my time... I mean if its not that great then I will wait to go BL in little while. Im up against 2 stock RC18Ts and they have the Super 370 motors in them and I'll tell you what they freakin rip.

Who has a X-Speed for sale? where is the best place to get them right now

By the way I am getting some NIMH packs so this thing should have the power it needs. I think I will go with the 9.6V packs from United RC.

Sorry to be a pain but I am struggling with this hop-up stuff right now, dont want to be wastin money on stuff that really isn't worth it. Thanks for all your patience and contued help.


Later,
MOTRAIN

.5x8
05-25-2005, 04:10 AM
uh then dont get the x-speed....what you should do probably..hmm....lets see...they fast eh? how fast? hmm....lets see...i think what you should do is get that rocket motor that moose has......ill try to find it in the forums. for u..ill edit this message asap. or post another one..either get the krystal 4 or the rocket motor moose has..but i think just get the krystal 4 from united rc.

.5x8
05-25-2005, 04:17 AM
****EDIT!!!!****

here are the links...


ESC:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUY13&P=ML

MOTOR:
http://www.unitedrc.com/store/product.asp?BrandId=10&ID=196

BATTERIES:
http://www.unitedrc.com/store/product.asp?BrandId=7&ID=210

this is all you need to woop that brother in law's of yours..and whoever is in competition!!!!

and since you are replacing the ESC....replace the servo and radio while ur at it!

(dont forget the OIL shocks we told u bout..thats a must have if you want to be able to jump without bouncing like a kangaroo and actually beating em)

BitHed
05-25-2005, 04:21 AM
...i recommend the Xspeed over the K4 :o

MOTRAIN
05-25-2005, 04:22 AM
Ok sweet, thanks for the help.

I was wondering do you think the sport packs will be good enough or should I go fro the xtream packs? Can't decide!!!!!! $15 a pop or $29 is there a difference in performance? Yes but is it worth it?

Plus how many do I need? 2 or 3 how long do they take to charge at 1.5 amps?


whoa, why do you say x-speed over the K4?

.5x8
05-25-2005, 04:44 AM
umm...ask the owner of URC he can go 29 even on each...if your running constantly..2 or 3 would be good...and YES there is a HUGE difference!!!! but the sports are only 6 cell..so yeh..if you want..you can get the cheap ones..how about buy 1 good ones..and 2 cheap one and see how it is vice versa (mispell..i think...LOL)....

MOTRAIN
05-25-2005, 04:56 AM
No they have 8cell 9.6V in the sport series, but it sounds like the xtreame are the way to go. I think I will go with 2 of them to start. Might as well get the best. While I am at it I guess I should get the voltage limiter so I dont trash my new packs?

MOTRAIN
05-25-2005, 08:20 PM
Ok, I ordered up 2 of the 9.6V Xtreme packs from United RC this morning. So the battery delema is settled...hope I made a good decision. Also have 3Racing Alloy shock towers and shocks on the way. Should be sweet!

Anyhow what lube are you guys using on the diffs? Are they sealed or do you just lub them up with some thick stuff? Any help on this matter would be great.

mOOsE
05-25-2005, 08:38 PM
yup, just throw some grease on them and you should be set. Good choice with the xtremes...the gp cells are far superior and will have much better power.

mOOsE
05-25-2005, 08:39 PM
hey bit, why don't you like the k4? is it the heat or is the xspeed faster? I need to pick up an xspeed to compare to my "rocket"

MOTRAIN
05-25-2005, 08:47 PM
What brand are you guys using for the diff lube? Does one work better than another?

I too am intersted in a diff. motor what is the diff between the Xspeed, K4, Rocket???

BitHed
05-25-2005, 09:34 PM
...LUBE: TAMIYA Titanium Grease is good but its too light for the diffs...TAMIYA Anti-Wear is heavier and stays longer and does what its supposed to...Mugen Seiki Super Grease is SUPER snotty, stays where you want it to and lasts longer and feels MUCH heavier...

...HPI has various weights of grease that I havent used yet...and probably wont because the Mugen is good at what it does...

...Not sure about the 400, the K4 is underpowered comared to the Xspeed...BOTH get very hot, i had my Xspeed at 130 degrees centigrade on an 8 pack but for Xspeed was faster than the K4...

MOTRAIN
05-26-2005, 03:34 AM
Where is a good place to ge the mugen lube? My LHS does not carry Mugen products.... any good only places?

vindictor67
05-26-2005, 03:47 AM
Bit will LOVE this. I just checked Tower to see if they had the Mugen Super Grease. From what I have seen It looks like Kyosho and Tower have had a very Nasty Divorce. Pretty much everything Kyosho on their site is either "Discontinued" or "Order Pending". Ouch!

.5x8
05-26-2005, 04:51 AM
O YES HE WILL! but theres also taht competiton from ultimatehobbies..and since bit is in Japan..o_O i rather go buy from ultimate or the shop =-[ sorry bit.

BitHed
05-26-2005, 05:29 AM
..oh thats ok 5x8...you wont be able to resist for long ;)

.5x8
05-26-2005, 02:24 PM
(Y)ou (C)an (N)ot (W)ear (M)ake (M)e (B)uy (Y)our (S)tuff (B)ithed!!!!! (N)everrrrr!

lmao new club name! YCNWMMBYSBN

LMAO LMAO :D :p

akura2
05-30-2005, 05:33 AM
O YES HE WILL! but theres also taht competiton from ultimatehobbies..and since bit is in Japan..o_O i rather go buy from ultimate or the shop =-[ sorry bit.


I just came from Ultimate Hobbies... and after looking at their prices.. I'd say most places have some competition... H8 (cheapest I've seen it)

.5x8
05-30-2005, 02:17 PM
YEP only 145!! (no tax)

halfEIGHT
05-30-2005, 03:08 PM
Bit will LOVE this. I just checked Tower to see if they had the Mugen Super Grease. From what I have seen It looks like Kyosho and Tower have had a very Nasty Divorce. Pretty much everything Kyosho on their site is either "Discontinued" or "Order Pending". Ouch!

Tower/GP had an exclusive 20 year contract w/ Kyosho, which expired at the end of March. Since GP did such a horrific job of promoting Kyosho products, Kyosho set up their own office in the US, and dropped the evil monopoly GP. I just feel bad for all of the people who pre-ordered from Tower despite our advice! :( :rolleyes:

halfEIGHT
05-30-2005, 03:10 PM
YEP only 145!! (no tax)

Check the halfEIGHT.com Shop:

http://halfeight.com/shop

$185 w/ a $50 gift certificate for your next order equivalently equals $135! :D :cool:

.5x8
05-30-2005, 03:37 PM
eh i already got my h8..lol ill be ordering them shocks from you guys!!! what else do you guys have for 10 bucks besides the battery protection unit.

halfEIGHT
05-30-2005, 04:39 PM
You can use the Advanced Search to locate products by price. ;)

http://halfeight.com/shop/search.php

MOTRAIN
06-02-2005, 02:47 AM
Ok guys, I finally got her!!! She came toady...so happy. Thing is built like a tank... very sturdy. Kinda weak with the stock AA set-up but better once I tightened down the slipper nut. My United RC packs should be here Friday can't wait!

Anyways I lubed up the rear and front diffs and put the 3racing shocks and towers on front and back. No problems very happy with the ease of assembly and the quallity of products from 3Racing.

My next question how the heck do you lube up the center diff? Anyone have a tutorial for this? Also any steering upgrades I should lok at... kinda seems a little lets say Flexible? Anything out there that will help make it a little more crisp? One last thing where the heck does the 3Racing brace go any pics or tutorial?

BitHed
06-02-2005, 02:56 AM
...use slightly longer screws from UNDER the chassis, the ones that hold on your STEERING WIPERS 8the two posts the streering swivels on)...

...the #Racing brace goes UNDER the REAR piece where the electronics are...Look for the two upright posts...Thats it...

...two ways to lube center...IN CAR: with your finger or a toothpick or whatever...OUT of CAR: Remove it, break it up, coat it and put it back...More time-consuming but the results are better...While you are at it you can slip in the secret bearing mod ;)

MOTRAIN
06-02-2005, 04:11 AM
whoa whats the bearing mod???? Please tell......

I see the long posts......how do you get the electronics out?

MOTRAIN
06-08-2005, 05:49 AM
Well, I orderd the AON 4900 BL system with mamba 25 esc today. I bought it straight from AON, can't wait till it gets here should be sweet. I am probably going to use a RS310 for the reciever since I have a JR XS3. Hope its not too difficult to install everything. Anyone got pics with details of how they did the wiring with this same or similar setup? I wanna make it look nice and clean.

I also ordered up a Hitec HS-81MG for the new servo along with some Tamiya Anti-Wear grease for the diffs. Quick question say I already threw some diff lube I had layin around on the diffs can I just put this new stuff right in there or do I have to clean everything first?

Any help will be very appreciated!

BLACKHAWK444
06-10-2005, 04:37 PM
Hey. Thats a good combo. You should be happy with it. Is this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKKE1&P=7 good for the diffs?

Hawk
06-10-2005, 07:58 PM
Diff oil will just run out. Even the 10k stuff.
If I can ever find it again this would be a good place to start:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXT405&P=7
I am sure they will show up somewhere. In the mean time try some of this:
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=57_95_199&products_id=3973
:cool:

BitHed
06-10-2005, 09:32 PM
...Hawk what weight of that KYOSHO grease would you recommend for THIS car at THIS size? I will look for it here but I have never seen it before either....

Hawk
06-11-2005, 02:53 AM
Just pure guess here but based on the MP777, a good place to start would be 5:7:1 Front:Center:rear. What that means is based on the silicone diff fluids ( I use Mugen) that are available in 1000, 2000,3000,4000,5000,7000and 10000.
1000 in the rear is pretty light and is almost an open diff where the side gears only have to overcome friction and inertia to let the axles spin at differnt speeds. The axle with the least traction will spin with enough power.

In center, you want stiffer action to keep the center diff from 'unloading' to the front wheels when you accelerate and the front comes up and all the power goes to the front wheels that spin like crazy (the tires narrow and grow taller, this is called a pizza cutter). 7000 will give you plenty of accelleration because the amount of power required to turn the thick fluid tends to keep the side gears from spinning unless there is lots of power to spare going through it.

The front at 5000 means you want it to be tight but some give. It will give if one front tires is spinning very fast after coming off a jump with the trigger pulled to bring the front up, and one tire hits before the other. Otherwise you break or twist axles and diff pins. This also gives you enough lock in the front that if you come down off kilter (at an angle to the ground) you can grab trigger and the fronts will pull you through the mess anyway.

This is for an MP777, MBX5, Hyper 7, XB8 would take different weights to work the same way because of differnces in the balance, weight and setup of the buggy.

With the grease I would look for the lightest to put in the rear, that still has some body so the side gears don't freewheel.

The center, I would look for the thickest grease of the bunch and back it down if it is too agressive.

For the front, I would start with something around twice as thick as the rear as a baseline and alter up or down from there.

I have never used grease in diffs so I am not familiar with the thicknesses but the Kyosho stuff look like stand silicone based weights I am used to seeing with the shock fluid and diff fluid in 1/8. I have seen Kyosho grease but only one weight or maybe two in one shop. I would like to have the whole set to experiment with. :cool:

BitHed
06-11-2005, 03:01 AM
...Great post Hawk...With posts like these I think many of us noobs are SLOWLY beginning to unravel the many mysteries of the Holy Oils :D thanx...

...BTW I will keep an eye out for the whole line of KYOSHO oils and let you know if i find them...

Hawk
06-11-2005, 03:05 AM
...Great post Hawk...With posts like these I think many of us noobs are SLOWLY beginning to unravel the many mysteries of the Holy Oils :D thanx...

...BTW I will keep an eye out for the whole line of KYOSHO oils and let you know if i find them... :D Holy oils, I spit coke all over my keyboard on that one. :cool:

BLACKHAWK444
06-11-2005, 03:12 AM
Thanks hawk.

.5x8
06-11-2005, 01:42 PM
great post hawk! fantastic advice! and LMAO HOLY OILS HAHAHAH

halfEIGHT
06-13-2005, 08:53 PM
I have never used grease in diffs so I am not familiar with the thicknesses but the Kyosho stuff look like stand silicone based weights I am used to seeing with the shock fluid and diff fluid in 1/8. I have seen Kyosho grease but only one weight or maybe two in one shop. I would like to have the whole set to experiment with. :cool:

Hawk, I'd be happy to hook you up w/ a full set at a discount so you can perform this experiment for the benefit of all? :)

Hawk
06-13-2005, 10:07 PM
Tell me how much and I will send it to ya.
:D

BitHed
06-14-2005, 12:00 AM
...Hawk that will be great...keep us posted on your 'experiments'...BTW did you wipe off your keyboard yet? lol...

halfEIGHT
06-14-2005, 05:43 PM
Tell me how much and I will send it to ya.
:D

This is what you want, right?

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc2162.jpg

Hawk
06-14-2005, 06:57 PM
It now appears to be a moot point. With 3Racing putting out (soon) ball diffs. it is a new and better ball game. Pre load with how tight you run your diff ought to be easier and more reliable.
I may end up using the diff grease with the plastice gears if 3Racing takes a long time to make the ball diffs available. Who knows? :cool:
Thanks for your support.

vindictor67
06-15-2005, 04:25 AM
Hawk,

Excellent post! That was some very good info. and it was very easy to comprehend. Thanks a bunch!!!!!

BLACKHAWK444
06-19-2005, 10:08 PM
Do you think I could use MIP grease that is included with the CVD package in the H8 diffs?

pimpsmurf
10-26-2005, 01:58 AM
sorry to revive a sleaping giant, good work hawk. excellent info.

I purchased badhorsie.com's diff lock & lube combo (pretty cheap)

I'm planning to use it in the center diff, and the super-lube in the front and rear diffs. Bad idea? Should I get some diff oil from the LHS and go 5000 front and just use the super lube in the rear and lock the center.

-JNY