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View Full Version : My Aon fried!!!



scottb
05-26-2006, 08:36 PM
I was just driving along, going 5 mph and my Aon fried. Well, not really.

I was jumping and sliding and bouncing off rocks and enjoying my backyard when...smoke started rolling out the top of my H8.

I pulled the cover off, un-plugged the Lipo and smelled the smell of electronic defeat. The mamba 25 esc was fried (the wires and ic actually de-tached) - the motor was very hot, the Lipo was fairly hot (I think I revived it w my Hyperion balancer - hopefully it is not permanently damaged - I don't see any bulging or exterior damage).

I tested the motor w a different esc - and that esc started to get hot once I plugged it in (not a good sign). The motor is the culprit - it's shorting somewhere. Any ideas? I love this motor (I already bought another one) - but is there any continuity test/impedence test that will diagnose this? I also noticed this motor is more difficult to turn now.

Any input is welcome.

habitforming
05-31-2006, 08:20 PM
I'd just check the resistance between all 3 pair combinations (e.g. red-yellow, red-black, yellow-black) you can make with the wires and look for one number that's way out. If they're all the same (and not zero) then you've found the problem.

If you want, I will test my Aon 4900 when I get home tonite and let you know the values I get.

bermbuster
05-31-2006, 10:07 PM
If the motor is more difficult to turn a bearing may be bad. The bearings are replaceable.

scottb
06-01-2006, 08:55 PM
...I took it apart - checked the bearings (okay) - the rotor (??) turns okay, but there is some resistance.

I checked the ohm reading on each pole and am not getting a consistent reading - I'll check my other brushless motors and see what I get.

Has anyone had a motor "lock up". My theory - the motor locked up (or the drivetrain - it spun okay right after??) - then the esc continued to send the alternating current through the 3 leads. Because there was not load (the rotor wasn't turning), this just heated up - then it shorted in the esc - shorting the battery.

Any additional theories are welcome.

bermbuster
06-01-2006, 09:23 PM
Scott what battery pack are you using? If the pack cant give the throughput of energy it becomes a choke and causes heat.....I also heard of a few instances where faulty components in the mamba cause this. Check with CC it may be warrantied.

mOOsE
06-01-2006, 09:53 PM
2 cell or 3cell? gearing?

scottb
06-12-2006, 09:20 PM
I am running a 3-cell TP 2000 pack (used 60+ times). My gear is a 12t (it doesn't get that hot). My battery won't hold a charge anymore, so I ended up buying a new Aon and a new battery - I'm happy again.

I still have the "burnt motor" - but I don't think it was the motor's fault. I think the driveline jammed and the motor overheated, ruining the windings in the motor can.

Has anyone else have this happen?

I would think this is common. If nothing else, this would be a good lesson - don't keep on flooring it if your car is not rolling. As always, thanks for all the input and help.

FHM101
06-13-2006, 03:54 PM
It's not an Aon, but a local guy fried his Hyperion 6000 a while back for no apparent reason. We tried my hyperion 5000 in his buggy and it started getting very hot after a couple of laps so we figured the (mamba) ESC was the culprit. This was after we did a through check of the driveline to see if there existed any binding and none was found.

I suspect in our case it had something to do with either the ESC taking a spike and corrupting the programming, or the owner had been fiddling with it and would not admit as much because he linked it and reset everything to default and the overheating went away.