fixes (any and all)

[mat3833]

ok i am looking to fix all of my H8s problems at once. here they are:
1. wheel binding, (i need to kno what shims to buy)
2. steering blocks and their screws.
3. center diff. it keeps me from clearing the jumps.
4. steering slop other than the blocks.
5. rear of body rubbing on tires.
6. nose diving off jumps ( is there any way to fix this??)

i kno its alot but i want to fix it all with as little money as possible, but keeping quality at a priority. now i kno i need a aluminum front shock tower and aluminum motor mount but i havent had problems with them yet so they wil remain stock for now. also my center diff is semi locked at the moment due to some gummy sticky stuff i found. the diff still unloads but not as bad. i am looking for a permanant fix right now. thanks in advance.

Matt

[TiNTiN]

what I can help is not much
but I've done the following and it works well

2. buy a pair made with alum.
6. full throttle in air

The motor position is not a problem for me, some guys who plays the bigger Inferno tells me this is a problem about inertia somethig, the full throttle makes the wheels spinnnnnnnnn and the wheels produce a force to rise the nose up.

Imagine if U have a brushless and U can make the car wheelie on the groud, the same rule applies in air, too. :cool:

[Trickpatrick]

OK
1. This is probably the back of the rim touching the steering block or rear upright around the hex. If you use shims and over tighten the nut this will make it bind too. Take a dremel or sand paper and sand off the face of the rim around the hex opening. You may have to do it a couple times till you get enough off but it doesnt take a lot.

2.The Kyosho or 3 racing ones are good. 1. put lock tight in steering block threads set aside. 2. glue beveled washer into Chubs top and bottom I like shoe goo so you can still remove if needed. 3. put very small amount of grease on screw just under beveled edge that fits into washer. Not on threads. 4.When lock tight is dry assemble. IMHO this is the first upgrade that has to be done. Dont lose that stock shiney bottom screw it is very hard to replace. When you get the replacements keep your stock screws and you will be some kid's hero when you pull one out of you tool box at the track.

3. Its not the center diff .You need more torque = more motor and or battery.
Do not lock diff, outdrives ect. will start breaking. IMHO.

4.Shims under top plate over steering post's will eliminate most slop. plastic parts in steering will start to wear out then maybe upgrade to aluminum or just replace. For less bumpsteer use closed end balls on steering link. use inside mounting holes for more accerman. And 22 degree Chubs. for best steering. At least in the dirt.

5.Most likely your battery is pushing the body out against the rear tires. If you are using battery doors put a layer or two of servo tape under the doors to help hold batteries in tighter.

6. Pull full throtle a couple times while in the air and it will come up as mentiond. The trick is to experiment with how long or how many times you need to. You'll get it, but more power would help ,I bet.

I have had over 30 rc cars and this one is a keeper so hang in there it will reward you. :) :)

Trick

[TheTurtleMan]

3. Do not lock diff, outdrives ect. will start breaking. IMHO.


2 late.......... :eek:

[mat3833]

thanks guys, oh and on the center diff thing i im running a mamba 5400 and 12 tooth pinion. power is great but forward traction isnt. the front wheels just baloon and dont dig in. i semi locked my diff and i can now clear the jumps.
oh and the shiny screws for the bottom of the knukle.... they are long gone, the tape came off and they fell out.
i am using the batt dors an the batts are secure with velcro under the door.


Matt

[Trickpatrick]

SO if I understand you then you are driving without the steering knuckels being held in??

You have to fix this first.

You cant expect the car to behave like it should if you are driving it broken.

[mat3833]

no i took a screw and shortned it, it threaded itself and i loctited it. but i want to fix it the right way.

Matt

[MAG]

softer springs up front and stiffer ones in the rear should help you get the front tires to hook more.

[mat3833]

already done, it is the stupid diff. i did manage to make it work better tho, i took some off brand silly putty and put it in there. works pretty good now. until my gear cover is totaly pink!!. oh and i wont be driving untill i get steering blocks..... ran out of self tapping screws so i am just going to get the aluminum steering blocks and get the right screws.

Matt

[DrVonHoSS]

TrickPatrick.. very nice! I was about to reply and answer the questions.. but then I saw your reply and realized I had nothing to add.

Also agree.. this is a great car. Spent the time to make it run the way it should. It took me a couple weeks to really get my car dialed in. But now? The car is awesome!! I destroy vendattas (all but one).. I will post in the Tracks section.

[mat3833]

does anyone kno where to get the bottom screws...

Matt

[pimpsmurf]

Buy alluminum c hubs man.

-JNY

[Trickpatrick]

The bottom screws are a odd size hard to get.
Go Aluminum and use my install tips and then you can worry about something new thats falling off. LOL

[BitHed]

...the 3R hubs take 3x6 BOTH in the bottom AND the top ;)

[mat3833]

well i ended up with GPM steering blocks..... long story, but thanks bit i will have to pick up the screws.

Matt