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pimpsmurf
11-10-2005, 05:26 AM
I race on a 1:10-1:8 track, which is Roar-legal, so I have a lot of room. I need to keep as much speed as I can through mostly very wide easy turns (for a 1:16 AWD buggy that is!)

The surface is hard-packed clay on top of dirt, and the track is regularly maintained. It is always blown before races. Very sticky!

I run stock kyosho wheels currently, but plan on using kyosho block pins, or proline crime fighters when they arrive.

I use mostly ronny's setup for shocks and such, and various other things have been borrowed through out the board.

Setup:
Mamba 25 ESC w/ Hyperion YC22 6000kv motor (11.T pinion)
Novak XXL AM 27mhz reciever
Hitec HS85mg servo (I would recommend the HS81MG instead!)
8 Cell United RC Xtreme packs (x42s?)

Hop Ups:
*) 3racing Alloy:front tower, rear tower, wing mount, upper suspension mount, 20 degree hubs, kingpins, steering knuckles, turnbuckle wrench, chassis brace, 1:10 wheel adaptors & standard adapters (w/ pins), 3Racing driveshafts (dogbones, cvds, whatever), full bearing set (me wants boca!), rear hubs, front and rear anti-roll bars, motor mount,
*) also, 3Racing titanium diff joints (waiting on ST diffs), turnbuckles & torque bars, hinge pins, ball set w/ ball end set, slipper shaft
*) GPM: HD titanium center shafts
*) Proline Crowd Pleazer body
*) bad horsie shock covers (what a pain, but great once installed!), I also use bad horsie's holm wrecker diff lube which is super smoothe!

Planning: 3Racing graphite suspension holders, servo plate, top plate, steering plate, alloy servo saver w/ titanium posts, carbon fiber chassis (if one comes out that doesn't suck), Crime Fighters, ST diffs (3Racing center?), 3x alloy rear blocks, boca bearings, aon 4900, United RC 11.1 1660 Apogee pack, Hitec HS81MG,

front suspension:
kyosho oil shocks w/ red springs & 40wt oil, top-inner hole on tower, no spacers

rear suspension:
kyosho oil shocks w/ red springs & 35wt oil, top inner hole on tower, 2mm spacer

3 degree rear toe-in, stock camber positions, about 1 degree camber on front, 2 on rear. hard front and rear anti-roll bars (keeps it flat, although I slide a lot. Let's see what it's like when we have the track blown off next week. right now it is a little dusty. Sliding isn't an issue because I just pre-emtively turn, and over-throttle to keep it aimed. Really impressed some monster truck guys, but I'm waiting on the buggy driver reactions.

-JNY

BitHed
11-10-2005, 02:25 PM
...nice post Pimpy...good how you explained it against your surface and driving syle...We need more of these types of setups posted...

...You notice the sacer in your rear shox? Make a difference to you?

Datrain
11-10-2005, 03:20 PM
where do u get your bad horsie stuff

pimpsmurf
11-10-2005, 05:12 PM
badhorsie.com? lol! they are also on ebay. The small buggy shock cover set makes 2 mini inferno shock covers.

The spacer on the rear does seem to make it jump more flat/nose down a little, which is cool. I like to keep those wheels spinning to control my attitude. Understand that my jumps are 2-5' high with a 3-6' length of hypotenuse (the incline). They are really big jumps, so the front wheels don't get pushed up more than the rear. The only part of my setup that has really given me trouble was the removal of the front window and widening of the rear hole. They seem to make the car want to nose dive. I pretty much stay on the throttle (not full throttle) through the jump, which is fine by me, so maybe now I can remove those spacers? *shrug* I need about 20 packs of time on the track to really finish up the tuning once I get the 3racing heatsink here. I'm actually considering using the 22 caster blocks. With the 3 degree rear, the back is STUCK! The front is very agile, but the anti-roll bars keep it sliding a little (pushing?). I don't know, but when I do, I won't hold back. I'm the Captain of Longwindedness... haha!

-JNY

Datrain
11-12-2005, 02:38 AM
what pistons r u using in your shocks? why r u switching servos

BitHed
11-12-2005, 12:51 PM
...Pimpy that was the other thng I wanted to ask you...How do you like the NOVAK RX? You are QUITE welcomee to send that to me when you update to FM :cool:

pimpsmurf
11-12-2005, 07:09 PM
It works. That is about all I can tell you. It is kinda hard to position inside of a crowdpleaser body. You pretty much have to mount it on the top deck somewhere, which makes positioning the mamba kinda hard. I have it mounted tward the middle on my servo deck, and the mamba on the left battery holder. I'll probably end up moving the reciever to the rear upper deck and putting the mamba on the servo upper deck, but that is going to require some finesse.

I just bought a 1:1 chevy tahoe, so my hobby budget is shot all to hell until next year. :(

-JNY

BitHed
11-12-2005, 09:26 PM
...Sounds like a job for..STiffy!!

http://halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169&highlight=stiffy

...yeah...its kinda hard to review / comment on what a reciever ACTUALLy does...lol...

...NOICE...Chevy eh...Does the NOVAK fit?

pimpsmurf
11-12-2005, 10:18 PM
The novak fits very well. I use the 3m Dual Lock plastic velcro-like stuff. It's extremely strong. The novak does fit well on the servo topdeck, but it hangs over the gear cover. The 3m stuff is so strong, it doesn't even matter. No way it's going anywhere, plus it should allow room for a 3racing motor heatsink. Still waiting on my titanium diff joints, 3racing motor heatsink, rear hubs, 3racing ball end set (x2), and the 1:10 adaptors.

The diff joints should be in the mail today, or monday, and next Saturday is my 1:10 nitro meet, so hopefully I can have both of them running by then!

-JNY

pimpsmurf
11-13-2005, 07:46 PM
I forgot to respond to this part:

I'm not really down with the stiffy. It's definately rad, but I dig my batteries being low. Also, I'm not into a CF chassis unless someone builds a non permanent way to mount batteries. I wouldn't like bending lithium polymers trying to get them off the chassis, and zipties are for losers. :)

CF is awsome for racing, but this is my low-maintainence backyard basher.

What greese are you guys using on the center and front diffs to make it harder to slip? ronny's corner has gotten way to long to find what you want.

The diff locking greese from badhorsie slings off really easily.

-JNY

BitHed
11-13-2005, 08:08 PM
...Pimpy thanks for your info and comments...

...RE: Greases...I am running ATOMIC balls front and rear, done up tight and a stock center diff in 3R hub, no greases at all are harmed in the set up of my car :D