PDA

View Full Version : Hyperion update and other goodies



pimpsmurf
11-01-2005, 05:33 PM
I just got off the phone with Troy at b-p-p.com, and he gave me an update on the new motor I mentioned previously.

It is called the hyperion, and comes in a 5000, and 6000kv model. It is slightly larger than the mamba, with a builtin heatsink and is a direct fit for the half eight. It also packs very good torque (much better than the mamba) and a higher top-speed than the Uber Aon 4900.

He recommends a 3 cell lipo for the 5000, and a 2-3cell lipo for the 6000. 8 cells on a 6000 is possible with very decent results, I would imagine.

I don't have the ever-so-important stats yet, but he is offering it in a package with the mamba ESC, and stand alone. The standalone price is *gasp* 44.95 with free shipping for a limited time. Very nice deal indeed!!

*EDIT* I should have mentioned that he said the hyperion will be on his site within a couple hours! woot!

Other goodies coming this week are:
Vented Ceramic lithium polymer charging containers. Very nice! $15-30US!
A Hyperion lipo cell balancer that works with just about every pack connector on the market. Very very nice! It can work in two modes: standalone cell balancing, and an inline mode where the charger plugs into it, and it into the pack to give a balanced charge to the individual cells! I've been waiting for those, and $39 is sweet! http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=1_LBA6

It should be noted that I am in no way affiliated with b-p-p.com, and get nothing out of this. I thought I should say that since this kind of sounds like a spam.

Anyway, I'm getting a hyperion first (Aon second) so I can give you guys a review! =)

-JNY

mat3833
11-01-2005, 05:44 PM
awesome, get that motor quick so we can get the low down on it! great info. good job.

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-01-2005, 08:15 PM
Here she is!
http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=db_YC22_Mamba

Comes with 3.5mm gold connectors like you would use with the mamba ESC (needs installation, but no biggie)

ordering mine right now.

-JNY

mat3833
11-01-2005, 09:05 PM
let us kmo how well it works, i might get one of these instead of the AON.

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-01-2005, 09:08 PM
I'm going to get both, although I'll wait a month or so before I get the AON.

I'm going to do a shootout between the Hyperion and the Mamba Comp. I fully expect the Hyperion to be badass. Troy at b-p-p.com has always been straight up with me. Never tried to push me junk.

-JNY

mat3833
11-01-2005, 09:32 PM
are you planing on selling the other motors?? if so i am looking for an AON. i have a mamba 5400 right now but i cant get a pinion small enough to keep it cool.

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-01-2005, 10:35 PM
I'm not sure. I might end up selling the mamba when I get these 21 turn silver magnet wire motors back from MZW. =)

-JNY

ffactory666
11-02-2005, 10:00 AM
I'm going to get both, although I'll wait a month or so before I get the AON.

I'm going to do a shootout between the Hyperion and the Mamba Comp. I fully expect the Hyperion to be badass. Troy at b-p-p.com has always been straight up with me. Never tried to push me junk.

-JNY

Was about to post about this motor but you beat me to it.

I can back you up in saying that i'm in Australia and have had great service and advice from Troy in my dealings with BPP ;)

plain_simple
11-06-2005, 04:16 PM
I just clicked the link by curiosity
http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=db_YC22_Mamba

and it says...
Sorry, this product is not currently available. :(

neo
11-06-2005, 04:19 PM
Try http://www.b-p-p.com/proddetail.php?prod=db_YC22 (HERE)

pimpsmurf
11-06-2005, 06:43 PM
UPDATE! SWEET GLORY!

This motor is awsome! For (slightly jaded) comparison:
Mamba 6800 11.T vs Hyperion 6000 13.T

The Hyperion has much more torque. It has about the same accelleration as the mamba (with the different pinions as above) and more top-end. It did get kind of hot (about 135-140F, touch-tested), but I'm running a 5cell pack with tiny wires (xxx-nt reciever pack from trinity) while waiting on my United RC packs which should be here by tuesday.

I think the hyperion with a 12 tooth pinion is really going to be the ticket on an 8 cell setup.

I'm psyched! With the 5 cell pack (sitting on top of the upper deck in the window area), this thing handled like a dream on the hard clay track (slightly dusty) with brand new stocker pin kyosho tires. I'm really happy with it. It was clearing the 3 foot high jump (about 4 feet of gap) with over a foot to spare on the downside. It was landing half-way down the downslope!

It was great. There is a 4.5 foot tabletop that I couldn't get over, but it is right after a hard turn with bumps. I think after I change the shocks to ronny's setup and fiddle with the anti roll bars (which were really helpful on this track!) It will really show it's kyosho colors! Can you tell I was grinning watching the nitro monster trucks (HPI Savage and Monster GTs) crashing trying to keep up with me? They had more top-end, but this little guy was just flying around the corners at 2/3 throttle. Once I got going, I went a full lap without slowing down enough for it to start cogging/lagging. It was fantastic.

Unfortunately, part of the track is really bad. It managed to raddle my locktite'd screws out of the kingpin on one side which caused binding that I couldn't figure out until I took it appart. I still think there is another issue, but I'm going to have to play with it. I can't wait till I get the titanium/alloy servosaver w/ sato spring all setup. The stock spring is way too weak!

All my badhorsie diff-locking grease is gone now, so I'm going to clean it all out and use the other stuff if I can find it. I don't like the badhorsie stuff in this kind of diff.

Just some stuff to get off my mind. I will post definative information as soon as I get my 8 cell packs.

Later on,
-JNY

Hawk
11-06-2005, 07:35 PM
Thanks for the update. Sounds like a winner to me. I will be getting for for my ST as soon as it gets here.
Thanks for the leg work and I bet things will be better when you get a real pack with sufficient current capability.
:cool:

BitHed
11-06-2005, 07:43 PM
...So many fun things to buy and so little money :D I will wait...Yessim...I will wait for the ST to arrive, see how fast I can make it go and THEN see if i need to 'replace' the AON...Hawk I will follow YOU on this one...

...Thanks for the update Pimporini...Just what i was waiting for...

pimpsmurf
11-06-2005, 09:04 PM
Current Testbed:
Insuficient 5 cell 1200mah pack
Mamba ESC Hyperion short closed 6000kv 12.T

I tried High start power with extreme timing and the system got hot. ESC was cool, but batteries were 120F, motor 140F (ouchies). This is on a crappy (for this use) 5cell. Great performance until the batteries got hot and started loosing efficiency

I just turned it back down to normal/normal and it should run a lot cooler.

Anyway, I'm off to the track!

-JNY

BitHed
11-06-2005, 10:37 PM
...2mm shaft? Or 2.3?

Hawk
11-06-2005, 11:58 PM
...2mm shaft? Or 2.3?
Copied from another thread that has much information about the hyperion.http://halfeight.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1128


The "YC" car versions have closed ends, to keep out dirt and water...

Y22-S Dimensions
Stator Diam. mm 22
Weight g 48g
Outside Diameter mm 24.3
Length mm 30
Output Shaft Diameter mm 2
Mount Screw Diameter mm M3, M2.5

BitHed
11-07-2005, 12:00 AM
...ok then...my next question is WHY are there two monuting screw sizes? :confused:

Hawk
11-07-2005, 12:15 AM
Because there are two mounting configurations. They include a ring so the bearing trunion in front is larger as some ducted fan setups require that size. These are not neccessarily purpose built and have to cover many uses. If you go to the other thread and follow the link to the site with bunches of Hyperion motors and esc's and lots of information about the motors and their use. Diagrams and configurations to keep you busy for some time I imagine.

By the way, since the Dr's chassis allows the motor to be mounted in the rear, the opportunity presents itself to install BIGGER motors. The Hyperion motors YC22s (the s stands for short) have a Y22L motor. More torque, same rpm. The difference the C makes (in YC22s is the car version does not have holes in the can ends to keep the dust out.) can be remedied easily and you have a bolt on killer motor :cool: Please stand by.

Yeah, like this little bitty thing needs more power. Are you nutz? Like I said months ago, I am not so concerned with keeping the weight down so much because you can always add power to make up for it. As long as you don't exceed the chassis's ability to turn this mass in a timely fashion, but that is another matter. I don't think we have gotten close to how hard this platform will turn. :rolleyes:

plain_simple
11-07-2005, 12:40 PM
Because there are two mounting configurations. They include a ring so the bearing trunion in front is larger as some ducted fan setups require that size... install BIGGER motors. The Hyperion motors YC22s (the s stands for short) have a Y22L motor. More torque, same rpm.
As long as you don't exceed the chassis's ability to turn this mass in a timely fashion, but that is another matter. I don't think we have gotten close to how hard this platform will turn. :rolleyes:

Fully agree with Hawk... thats the way i went also and i think it's the futur for this plataform ;)

pimpsmurf
11-07-2005, 07:20 PM
Hyperion 6000 update:
Mixed review. The "heatsink" around the can, at best doesn't do much sinking, and at worst makes installing a real heatsink harder. If that is all I have to say about it it, then hurray! =)

I got my United RC X42S 9.6v packs in today. I topped them off, and about 2 hours later put them in and gave it a run. 10 minute runtime (mostly top speed, but some low-cut grass and lots of start/stop) with the Hyperion 6000kv 12.T pinion. Fast. Very fast. Also very hot.

ESC: 140F
Motor: 190F
Batteries: 130F

I would give it a 30-35mph top speed. Maybe slightly higher with a freshly charged pack. I am doing 1.5A charging for my first 5 charges as they recommend. Then 2A should give a little bit higher peak, right?

Anyway, I like it, but I'm going to go down to a 11.T pinion with a freshly charged pack and see what it does.

Mamba setup:
Normal start/normal timing

I also saw a little lag/cogging from a stop at about 2 minutes in, so I'm going to go with 11.T pinion on high start power and race timing next. We will see!

-JNY

plain_simple
11-07-2005, 07:43 PM
Thats a bit hotter then i tought it will be.
Seems that the motor performs well though so maybe... its a qualifier ;)

pimpsmurf
11-07-2005, 08:05 PM
I'm going to run the mamba with the 11.T and the high/race setup before I move the pinion over. Hopefully it won't be quite as hot. I'm worried that I might have to use a fan with the hyperion. We will see.

-JNY

BitHed
11-07-2005, 08:31 PM
...I have this funny little tickly feeling that is making me feel as though the AON might be coming out on top of this? The built in heat sink is not pulling its weight and then possible preventing a 'real' sink being put on?

...keep posting Smurfy :cool:

pimpsmurf
11-07-2005, 09:00 PM
Your wish is my command, however I'm not resoldering those gold 3.5mm connectors today, so no mamba! haha

Setup: mamba race/high settings
Hyperion 6000kv (short sealed) 11.T pinion

Torque out the ass. Top speed out the ass. Try 35-40mph on a freshly-peaked 9.6V pack. This thing is going to be insane on lipo, however it will definately need some cooling.

Temps: (Take into account that It was stalling in low-cut grass (golf course fairway))

Mamba: 130F (wow)
Batteries: 140F (great!)
Motor: 205F (CRAP!)

I don't have a 10 tooth gear, so I might have to go back to normal timing with high start power too keep the temps down. Lets see what that does, then I'll try to find a fan to go by the motor. Perhaps something that doesn't suck. I wish I could fit this 12V Thermaltake fan in there.

The heatsink on this thing is useless. I'm going to try to find out the outside diameter of the heatsink on the hyperion so I can put some sort of half-circle heatsink like the ones people use 2 of (Team associated?)

Hopefully 1 heatsink with some serious fins will bring it down. 180F is fine by me.

-JNY

mat3833
11-07-2005, 09:11 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cooling-Fan-Novak-Tekin-LRP-JR-Futaba-Airtronics-ESC_W0QQitemZ6010375866QQcategoryZ34063QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem get this fan. they arent lying about the durability. i got 2 and i have just now made one slow down. i glued a 500 gram weight to the fan and ran it on 12v. it finaly slowed down after about 13 hours of torture. it has only slowed a small amount and still blows tons of air! i love these things!! oh and they got my mamba from like make my finger burn to lukewarm.

Matt

janniz
11-07-2005, 09:15 PM
The heatsink on this thing is useless. I'm going to try to find out the outside diameter of the heatsink on the hyperion so I can put some sort of half-circle heatsink like the ones people use 2 of (Team associated?)

Hopefully 1 heatsink with some serious fins will bring it down.
Same on the MiniAC - I now use two of these 3Racing heatsinks on the MiniAC.
http://www.janniz.de/micro/1215-12.jpg
If you bend the heatsink a little it will fit. Because of the built-in "heatsink" the external heatsink has less surface to stick on so thats why I now use two of them - covers the whole motor. On the AON I only use one and it still stays cooler.

pimpsmurf
11-07-2005, 09:45 PM
beautiful! Do you bend it out, or in to get it to fit?

I think 1 of those with some arctic silver would be a great solution! Check the length. It's shorter than the mamba, so I'm guessing 2 might not fit perfectly. I'm hoping that heatsinks will get me on race timing with high start power and 180ish temps!

Anyway. My latest run:
90% asphalt
Hyperion 11.T
High start /Normal Timing (HS-NT)
Hyperion: 180F
Mamba ESC: 120F
Batteries: 130F

Still 35-40mpg top speed, but great torque. I'm guessing 3.5 seconds to top speed, but that is a "calling out the numbers to myself" estimate.

In the last two runs, I have flat spotted my front (kyosho stock) tires, and the rears are hurt pretty badly. I need 1:10 wheels adaptors for this pirelli rally tires from HPI!

Does a brushless halfeight have the same effect on everyone? I'm ear to ear baby... ear to freaking ear.

-JNY

mat3833
11-07-2005, 10:28 PM
mine is like that to! i cant stop laughing. but unfortunantly i am having receiver problems fight now. but i think my ESC might be messed up. i put the receiver in another car and it worked great. im gonna email CC

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-07-2005, 11:44 PM
I'm getting my grin on something fierce! Very happy with the hyperion. Now if we can cool it down a little. I'm hoping that I can put one the 3racing heatsink on it, and aim the fins to the side of the buggy. Then cut off the fins flush if there is enough room to mount a fan there. Anyone have pictures of a 3racing heatsink aimmed to the side? Hard to tell how large it is. I think I might not even have to cut it. Maybe just attach the fan to the chassis with some servo tape.

-JNY

mat3833
11-07-2005, 11:48 PM
im just using a fan mounted with some scrap plactic. my motor went from insanly hot to cool. if that motor has small heatsinks built in it should cool even better.

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-07-2005, 11:58 PM
Yeah, it will definately help a little, but the fins are like 1mm tall. Not very effective. I'm sure the open endbells would run a lot cooler, but that is a bad idea.

-JNY

mat3833
11-08-2005, 12:07 AM
i love those fans, and for like 6.00 you cant go wrong. they are like indestructable. i swear by their cooling ability. my mamba has no heatsink, im running a 13 tooth pinion and the sugested one is 11 tooth. i am on 8 cells and i am running just warm to the touch. that is impresive. now if you want your motor to run icy cold get a heatsink with horizontal fins so that the fans breeze flows over them you would have a motor that stays icy! i will try to get pics of my setup if i can.

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-08-2005, 12:17 AM
wow. Is that a 5400 mamba?

-JNY

mat3833
11-08-2005, 02:54 PM
yea a 5400

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-08-2005, 06:12 PM
I got the hyperion out on the track today with the setup I've been running, and it was insane. I pulled the tripple that is right after the straight away. It is 4.5' high with a steap incline that sent me flying about 25 feet. I can't wait to get the blower out there so I can get some serious traction. I was sliding a little because of a light layer of dust on the hard clay. The clay could have used some water too, but I didn't have time to mess with it.

Anyway, I'm hoping to get video ASAP, but I managed to break the center diff's rear cup. I knew those things sucked. I sheared it off at the base on the screw.I guess I'll have to wait for some replacement as no one seems to have the titanium ones on ebay right now! booo!

-JNY

pimpsmurf
11-08-2005, 08:18 PM
Just missed the 2 hour rule. sorry.

*EDIT* Woot! I found them! I ordered a set of the titanium diff joints from 3racing. Ebay was cutting off the search results for results found in ebay stores. I really hate thier focus on making money over customer's needs (no new-in-box search anymore, cutting off, and not returning some results found in stores instead of auctions. DUMB DUMB DUMB!)

Anyway, happy days. I got those, some alloy rear hub carriers, 1:10 adaptors from 3racing, and a 3Racing Ball End set (stuff I missed last time! boo!)

I also ordered the 3racing motor heatsink, which I hope will fit and work on the hyperion. I've already butchered my stock body with a removed front window and larger (even) hole where the faux cooling head used to be. It has great airflow, but the motor is too low down in there (thank goodness!) I'm hoping the fins on the heatsink see a little more airflow than the motor is getting right now. At least the aimbient temp inside the body are under control. It used to be 20+F hotter in there than outside.

-JNY

neo
11-17-2005, 07:09 PM
Did you have any issues with meshing. I have fitted my Hyperion to my 3racing motor mount and the motor needs to move towards the front approx 2-3mm to allow me to mesh the gears properly.

pimpsmurf
11-17-2005, 07:55 PM
no, I'm meshing great with no issues at all (other than broken diff joints. haha)

I've gotten great meshing results from Team Associated 11-13 tooth pinions, and 12-13 tooth HPI micro rs4 pinions. I have the 10 tooth also, and a 11 tooth on the way, but I'm waiting on diff joints before I try the 10 tooth. Others have reported positively. These are WAY better than the associated pinions in my opinion!

If you are using the associated pinion, perhaps you should turn the pinion around backwards so the set screw is near the end of the shaft. If you use loctite on the set screw (including the bottom surface), you shouldn't have an issue with it getting loose. You *can* flaten out the shaft, but I would only recommend that if you are certain of what pinion you are going to use. I've moved to the HPI pinions, which have a more half eight friendly design.

-JNY

neo
11-18-2005, 03:11 AM
I think its my pinions thats causing the trouble. I dont suppose you have a pic showing the pinion on you motor do you?
Would be helpful to see ;)

Here is a pic of my problem. You can see I have the pinion on as close to the motor can as possible. But I still cant get any mesh.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v169/neo010969/b225a54a.jpg

Hawk
11-18-2005, 04:25 AM
Take the pinion off the motor shaft, turn it 180 degrees so the set screw is nearest the end of the shaft. Slide pinion back on shaft and you can align the gears to mesh correctly. :cool:

BitHed
11-18-2005, 05:09 AM
I've moved to the HPI pinions, which have a more half eight friendly design.-JNY

...The MiniZilla pinions work really well too...Sometimes your LHS will have one and not the other...

neo
11-18-2005, 01:23 PM
Take the pinion off the motor shaft, turn it 180 degrees so the set screw is nearest the end of the shaft. Slide pinion back on shaft and you can align the gears to mesh correctly. :cool:

I have tried that Hawk, But the shaft isnt very long and the i end up with the same problem, but with the teetk too far in board LOL.

pimpsmurf
11-19-2005, 01:28 AM
It is *ALL* about the micro RS4 steel pinions. They fit like body builders...

BitHed
11-19-2005, 01:30 AM
...(nods head agreeingly)...Yup...Told ya :cool:

plain_simple
11-19-2005, 02:41 AM
I'm starting to get curious about those micro RS4 steel pinions :rolleyes:
Maybe i should try those ;)

Hawk
11-19-2005, 07:37 PM
I have tried that Hawk, But the shaft isnt very long and the i end up with the same problem, but with the teetk too far in board LOL.
Neo, I received my Hyperion YC-22s today. I put the pinion gear on and installed it in the chassis. I have about 2mm of motor shaft sticking out the end of the motor gear and it meshes well with the spur. Definitely get another makers pinion gear.
I use http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBPB3&P=7 and they have a decent selection of teeth.
Orion Micro Pro Metal pinion gears.
9t to 16t listed on Tower. :cool:

pimpsmurf
11-19-2005, 09:21 PM
Yeah, so... not a good day at the track. The first reason being, that as I was getting the diff joints propperly "tested", I heard what sounded like the pinion had fallen off. I took off the gear cover and staring me in the face is the shaft of the hyperion. It had come loose, so that you could pull it out of the motor... SUCKS! SUCKS HARD!

Is there something I can do, or should I just start looking for an Aon? =)

Had to use the mamba today... I was down right embarased! I had been telling everyone how fast it was, and the mamba was SLOW. I mean, EXTREMELY low torque... SUCKAGE. I had a good time, but I had constant pinion slippage/gear meshing problems all day, and ended up playing with the XXX-NT all day. I did manage to break the front part of the proline body on the h8. I'm thinking the kyosho body is the way to go... It seems to have a little more room inside the body, and kyosho was actually thinking with thier big head when designing the front.

I did have a blast today though. My nitro truck handled like a dream, and everyone was wowed with the H8. Most had never seen a brushless 1:18 before.

Fun fun,
-JNY

-JNY

mat3833
11-19-2005, 10:27 PM
i am having a blast w/ the mamba. im running the 5400 w/ a fan and a 13 tooth pinion. the ESC is glitching bad tho so i havent had the chance to run in awhile. i use green loctite on the pinion, use a toothpick to apply it to the inside of the pinion and then tighten the setscrew. i havent had any problems at all.

Matt

BitHed
11-19-2005, 10:47 PM
...Matt I think he means that the SHAFT came out of the MOTOR...Itll take more than a slimey toothpick to fix that :D

mat3833
11-19-2005, 11:23 PM
hmmm, i seemed to have overlooked that. go figure. id give the hyperion pple a call. and you might want to try to JB weld the rotor on the shaft if thats what is the problem. oh and bit loctite is a god in my RC world!! :p

Matt

pimpsmurf
11-21-2005, 06:46 PM
I just spoke with the ever so knowledgable Troy @ b-p-p.com who says he has never had a hyperion's shaft slip out in any of thier other motors, and this is the first problem he has ever heard of with the YC22 6k. The only shafts that he has ever had come out have been motors that were overheated (like 300F.)

The YC22 is a newer motor, but hyperion has been a good name in the brushless world, and my experience probably will not be the typical one. Now that I think about it, I believe the shaft was out too far to begin with. I seem to remember pushing the pinion against the larger part of the shaft after installing the 3racing diff cups. Perhaps it was even damaged in shipping by my slack ass USPS federal employees. Unlike in Japan, being a federal employee in the US isn't a mark of great ambition.

Regardless, Troy always makes it right. He is one of the assets of the hobby comunity.

*EDIT* Whoops! I feel like a moron. I *DID* heat the hyperion up to 170-180F running on the low-cut grass on the golf course behind my house. That was the can's temp (pre-3racing heatsink), so it's very possible that the arm overheated and led to the eventual breaking. Don't let my experience with the hyperion disuede (is that a word?) you from getting one. I was very happy with it's performance. Things like what happened to me, should not happen.

-JNY

impulseman
11-28-2005, 10:22 PM
After a reglage of the variator, I just tested in front of at home, not really of what to realize, but it sends sévere.Un good couple and a large point with pigons of 11 Tests teeth has to confirm and a natural test size at the time of the minis inferno cup.....

http://idata.over-blog.com/0/04/96/34/mon-mini-inferno/perso/dsc00258.jpg

http://idata.over-blog.com/0/04/96/34/mon-mini-inferno/perso/dsc00261.jpg

pimpsmurf
12-30-2005, 09:44 PM
I have no idea what that meant. I assume that it hauls ass.... :D

-JNY

Hawk
12-30-2005, 10:06 PM
I have no idea what that meant. I assume that it hauls ass.... :D

-JNY
"After a reglage of the variator, I just tested in front of at home, not really of what to realize, but it sends sévere.Un good couple and a large point with pigons of 11 Tests teeth has to confirm and a natural test size at the time of the minis inferno cup....." Impulseman.

I think he means he setup up the esc and tested in front of the house, not sure what would happen, it goes like heck. The 11 tooth pinion tests show it is a good base size to use at the mini inferno cup.

plain_simple
01-02-2006, 03:15 PM
Nice try Hawk :D I think he also wanted to say that the motor has a good torque with that "sévere" word and also that the real test will be when he races it at the mini inferno cup.

Thomas P
01-17-2006, 03:58 PM
PimpSmurf : Any tips for me?..Im just testing the H-6000 from 9-13T and it geting warm just in the air..BUT im using 11.1 LiPo, i only have those packs 4 of them, and i do not want to buy new 7.4 o heavy NiMh...How hot can it be before it broke?

I assume its the 11.1 who does the real heat on this Motor, strange, i do not remeber that my Mamba5400 getting this hot..and i ran 14T and 11.1, most of the heat going in to the chassi :D..maybe it will be in this case to? i havnt run it yet on track(blow the whole fron gearbox in a crash,w8 for spare parts..and a Y22L 5000 :P.

Do you think Low timing,and Low start powa will be better than normal or high......

pimpsmurf
01-17-2006, 05:08 PM
I don't know about the 11.1v setup, but here is what might help:

Use a heatsink. The 3Racing heatsink for Mini-T's works, but you should probably use thermal adhesive (like Arctic silver adhesive) to attach it permenantly. It helps fill in the gaps.

Use an 9-11 tooth pinion, but you may need to shim the motor mount up with some washers to get it to mesh propperly.

Mamba setup: Lowest timing. Low start power. Then move the start power (only) up if needed to help get off the line.

A Hyperion with a 3 cell is going to be insane. I would guess close to 55mph.

You definately want the ST diffs to help lower the gearing, and as with any brushless, check the drivetrain for any binding whatsoever. That will heat up a motor faster than anything. You should also cut out a vent hole in the front and rear to help get some air flow in the body. Not good for dust, but great for your motor.

The heat limitations for the Hyperion 6000 is 200F. You ABSOLUTELY DO NOT want to run it at that temperature however. The shaft can come out, and it can be very messy. 150F is a great temperature to run it at, and that will help you motor last a long long time.

Have fun, and get us some video with some top speed runs! =)

-JNY

Thomas P
01-17-2006, 05:27 PM
Thx PimpSmurf, ive just mounted 2x3Racing Heatzinks over the stock (that Stockzink does nothing to improve temp :D) hope this does

Ok, il go from 9T, and see how it runs, im satisfied if i can run @ same speed as my old Mamba5400 wirh 14T...,That become hot to, but not so dangerous..

Ok, only touch starting powa, and leav Timing on LOWEST.

Yes, it screams on 9T...i do realy hope this is a good combo,otherwise il test my Y22L, that should arrive in a few days:)

Yes a fullspeedo i do hope il get it on video :)

Thx for all those tips Smurf, get back ASAP i can, to tellya how it works...

/Thomas P

Thomas P
01-20-2006, 05:04 AM
it last for say 3x3 meters forward and backwards..then it become BOILING hot...some smoke out of the can..so hot...(thank god its working, il put in my other car with 6v, that working fine) 11.1 is not so good....even if they say so, on the site 2-3..IF we run, only lowest must be used..but diff between 7.2.-8.4-9.6 and 11.1 is a lot...lot of juice going up in heat...na, is say MAXIMUM for this one is 9.6..or 8.4.

Reading and asking about the Longcan now, and that motor will handle the 11.1 a lot better :D

pimpsmurf
01-20-2006, 10:06 PM
the long can hyperion (warp, and other long cans too) can eat your mamba ESC. Contact castle creations before using it man. I believe 1.03 is safe, and maybe 1.05? I forget, so give CC a call and maybe you can get someone on the phone that isn't an ass.

-JNY

Thomas P
01-22-2006, 06:07 AM
Ive checked Pimp, and they say No go with 1.03 using 1.02 will be ok..1.05? is that a new one??

bbking9
01-22-2006, 05:30 PM
Hey guys, Little confused here. Are you using the 3Racing Heatsink for a 180 size motor on the Hyperon 6000??? That seems way too small.

Isn't the can size on the Hyp 6000 a 380??

Wanna mount a fan on top of the heatsink for my Hyp6000 but am confused which heatsink fits.

Here is a link to a Integy heatsink that fits the MiniQuake which does have a 380 motor. Isn't this the right size heatsink?

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=3183&p_catid=&sid=4wSJJh1Ty7W2CTb-01106246155.23

Help.

Thomas P
01-22-2006, 08:07 PM
it´s 280 size..:)

bbking9
01-22-2006, 10:47 PM
What's a 280 size - Hyperion 6000?

Thomas P
01-23-2006, 07:31 AM
AoN 4900 , Hyperion 5/6000 is 280 size

Hawk
01-23-2006, 03:17 PM
I tried to track down what a 180 vs 280/370/300 motor sizes mean. I can find no specs for these designations. I have started to use the physical characteristics like the can is 24mm (I think this is most 280 motors) for Hyperion YC-22 short and long. Aon is 2415-4900. The 2415 means 24mm can 15mm armature. Mamba and Tekin rage motors are 20mm cans.
In the H8 motor mounting position determines how long the can can be (isn't that a dance?). Stock mounted motors are limited in lenght by the location of the steering post. With the reversed trany, the motor can be lots longer allowing the use of the Y-22L motor and even such monsters as the Aon 28mm can motors like the 2815-5800.
I use heat sinks based on the can size. Some places list the can size (20mm,24mm) that the sink fits. Most are soft aluminum alloy that can be formed to a different sized can. Usually +1 or -1 (24mm sink can be made to fit a 20mm motor, 20mm sink can fit a 24mm motor.) but they may not be pretty.

bbking9
01-23-2006, 04:59 PM
Good info Hawk.