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Hawk
10-16-2005, 08:53 PM
1/8 Buggy
Part/Component Where to buy Number Price

Kyosho KYO31779B MP777 SP2 Kit ?BitHed? 749.00
Kyosho KYOIFW125 48 Tooth Center Spur Gear A Main Hobbies 26.99

Futaba S9351 Digital High Torque Servo Tower 109.99
Hexcrews MP-777 HexHeads A.P. Conversion Kit Hexcrews 56.72
2LP1200 7.4v 1200mAh Batteries America 25.95
6.0v VOLTAGE REGULATOR Batteries America 19.95
Panther Medium Soft Molded Foam inserts 1/8 A Main Hobbies 9.25
Proline Crime Fighter M2 1/8 Buggy Tires A Main Hobbies 2(17.49) 34.98
Proline White Wabash 1/8 Buggy Rims A Main Hobbies 2(11.49) 22.98
Racer's Edge 3.5 mm Aluminum Shock Ends A Main Hobbies 2(10.99) 21.98

21 VZ-B V-Spec-T (P) ????? 280.00
RMV Turbo Airfilter Housing Reid RC 49.90
PSR Filter Set 12 RMV-Turbo Reid RC 33.69
RMV Speed3 Automatik Clutch 35mm Reid RC 109.49
RMV Speed2.5&3 clutch shoes BLACK Reid RC 3(18.49) 55.47
RMV Speed2.5&3 clutch spring set Reid RC 3(18.49) 55.47
RMV Engine Mount Complete MP777 Reid RC 63.92

ECK-TEC MP777 Front Chassis Brace Reid RC 24.49
ECK-TEC MP777 Rear Chassis Brace Reid RC 24.49
ECK-TEC MP777 Rear Hinge Pin Plate Reid RC 33.49
ECK-TEC MP777 Front Hinge Pin Plate Reid RC 34.49
ECK-TEC MP777 Front Shocktower Reid RC 34.49
ECK-TEC MP777 Rear Shocktower Reid RC 35.49
ECK-TEC MP777 Front Bulkhead Brace Reid RC 34.49
Fioroni Hardened & Lightened Conical Gear RC Nation 2(54.99) 109.98
Fioroni 2-Piece Center Diff Mount blocks RC Nation 119.00
Fioroni Ergal Radio Tray Black Color RC Nation 43.99
Fioroni Ergal Front Knuckles RC Nation 78.99
Fioroni Ergal Rear Knuckles RC Nation 89.99
K Factory MP777 St Steel Hardened Hinge Pin Set RC Nation 42.99
Acer Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Bearings - MP777 full set Acer 99.00
Acer Ceramic Nitride Pro Series Bearings - 5 x 10 for clutch use Acer 8(7.99) 63.92
2,595.02

EphiDelt490
10-19-2005, 05:02 PM
Wow.... Make sure you pick up some spare arms as well. Buddy of mine picked up an SP2 and an arm broke where the hinge pin goes in after 2 laps. Seems like they are brittle. Car looks good on the track though. How do you like those RMV clutches?

Hawk
10-19-2005, 06:09 PM
Hi,
Yes, I always carry spares for the entire car (I have a backup car) and with many parts I have new packaged replacements besides.

But, here is the story on the suspension arms. The lower suspension arms are prone to breakage due to the use of non-hardened suspension pins. I have never broken a rear lower arm. The only times I have broken a front lower suspension are is in really big crashes. One was head on with another car that jumped a berm onto the main straight away. The last one was 3/4 of the way down a 208ft straight at full throttle, hit a rock or other object and bounced into a light pole about 4 ft above the ground. Both of these were light damage considering the forces involved in the hits. 'You shoulda seen the other guy.'

The problem is the design of the lower arm and the pins. The inside pivot hole of the suspension arm does not go the full lenght of the pin. It is cut out into pivot points about 1/2inch (14mm) long. This lowers the weight of the arm and lowers the pivot friction from less contact with the pins. The amount of the material is plenty to deal with normal stresses and weight. When force is applied to the arm through the wheel, the pins can flex. When they flex, they form an arch through the pivot point in the arm and binds the arm. This locks the suspension and breaks at the pivot point on the arm. The hardened pins don't flex enough to cause the binding to the point that other things break too before the arms break.
I raced with someone that used to buy a set of lower front arms from me every week. I finally gave him a set of lower pins and they stopped breaking. Usually it is one arm or the other and you end up with a stack of left arms or right arms because it is always the same one. :rolleyes:

I have used RMV clutches and I am totally impressed with the engineering as well as fit and finish of all their parts. Good tools too. I have two Speed II clutches that work really well. They don't get too hot and that saves clutch bearings. They are easily adjustable for engagement and the shoes last forever. The only problem with the Speed II is they aren't making it any more though the shoes and springs are available.
I have used a Speed 2.5 with aluminum shoes and 1.1 springs. It worked as advertised though it has the drawbacks of aluminum, more maintenance for shoe flash and springs need to be replaced. Shoes don't have a lot of life but work well. I went back the the Speed II which was easy because of the design. The clutch is built on what is effectively the clutch nut. To change complete clutch shoes, springs all setup, just unscrew the clutch nut and screw on the other one. It makes it easy to experiment.

The Speed three looks to be the real deal. With the high rpm lockup device and standard springs with carbon shoes, it has all the right things. Go friction with low spring pressures (light carbon shoes) and high rpm lockup. It doesn't get any better. I am very optomistic because I have learned that they don't sell stuff that hasn't been tested and work. It costs a lot compared with the free clutch in the kit. It works so much better and they stuff last. Sorry but I hate aluminum shoes with 1.1 springs. They are too hard to work with.

As far as the SP2 vs SP1, I don't see a reason to change except the SP1 is worn out. I could just replace all the parts that wear (all the universals for one thing, the diffs all need to be replaced and a new set of bearings as well as the chassis) or just build new from the ground up. Some people had problems with getting the SP1's rear end to stick, referred to it as too twitchy. That isn't the case with us. I hate to change things after working out a finely tune platform but it isn't that much of a change. The SP2 moved things around a bit and lenghtened the chassis for different center of gravity.

In the end, we prefer a slightly out of control static setup. It is harder to drive but my driver does just that. He doesn't throw it around out there, he drives it through the turns and though it doesn't look as exciting, it is consistently faster than most non pros. It lasts the whole race, qualifiers, and mains with minor tweaks. Since it is a little less stable, it can be adjusted to different conditions with subtle changes that are easier to control. :cool:

EphiDelt490
10-19-2005, 07:50 PM
I hate dealing with clutches in general, lol. I drive an Xb8 and it's wicked on the track. Yeah he put the buggy together the day before the race, and the other stuff he ordered for it hasn't come in yet. Car looks good though. I like a car that is a little loose in the rear so I can pin it around the turns and get on the throttle. Always nice passing people on the inside :).